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JLink's Build

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Builds (2005-2015)' started by JLink, Aug 15, 2010.

  1. Feb 26, 2012 at 1:08 PM
    #361
    JLink

    JLink [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Lifted, Locked, Armored. Ready To Wheel.
    didn't want to change the color of that one. also didn't change the check engine light and other stuff like that which you only see when there is a problem.

    its not a matter of strength, its a matter of the bolt head starting to strip. I'm using the correct tools and everything, but the 10mm hex socket is starting to strip the head of the bolt. I'm going to keep spraying it with pb blaster a few times a day for the rest of the week and hopefully be able to get it off next weekend with out stripping it. I'm going to pick up a new drain bolt in the mean time. I'd prefer to have regular bolt heads so I can just use regular sockets. Might see if I can figure out some alternatives.
     
  2. Feb 26, 2012 at 1:10 PM
    #362
    brutalguyracing

    brutalguyracing BIG DADDY

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    broken mods
    which in your case is always
    make sure its magnetic....
    and you can take it out with an easy out 3/8" -3/4"
    not sure ill check tomm....
     
  3. Feb 26, 2012 at 1:11 PM
    #363
    Spoonman

    Spoonman Granite Guru

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    youre really not supposed to use an impact on any drain plug. removing the plug isnt a big deal i guess, but definitely not tightening.

    i stripped front diff drain plug last weekend. had the correct sized allen key socket, and a breaker bar. since you cant heat the housing, the only real option is to use lots of torque. it stripped right out :( dunno wtf to do now.
     
  4. Feb 26, 2012 at 1:14 PM
    #364
    pAP

    pAP ==========

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    Just tint and ppl for now.
    Weld a rod or old wrench to it. Take it out, then install a new one.
     
  5. Feb 26, 2012 at 1:14 PM
    #365
    brutalguyracing

    brutalguyracing BIG DADDY

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    F.U> GUYZ
    broken mods
    ez out
     
  6. Feb 26, 2012 at 1:18 PM
    #366
    JLink

    JLink [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Lifted, Locked, Armored. Ready To Wheel.
    Yea I would never use a power tool to tighten the bolt. I prefer to only use hand tools on my truck anyway, but for removing bolts I guess it would be ok.

    Sounds like you are in the same position that I am almost in. Hopefully a week of shooting it with pb blaster will free it up enough to get it off next weekend.

    Doesn't seem like a fun job to remove it after it's stripped, but an extractor kit should work. I'm on youtube right now watching videos about how to remove stripped bolts. One good idea I've seen so far is to hit it with a hammer to break up the rust that has accumulated, before it gets stripped.
     
  7. Feb 26, 2012 at 1:21 PM
    #367
    brutalguyracing

    brutalguyracing BIG DADDY

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  8. Feb 26, 2012 at 1:22 PM
    #368
    Spoonman

    Spoonman Granite Guru

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    i was using 2 feet of breaker bar and my FOOT to push. i think theres no way ill be getting that plug out. luckily wen i re gear for bigger tires, ill be getting a whole new clamshell. i dont know if there is any bolt extracot strong enough, that will grab enough. i have acess to every bolt removal tool in existance...all the best snap on stuff. but this thing is so tight. good luck, and if it does strip, let us know how you get it out!
     
  9. Feb 26, 2012 at 1:25 PM
    #369
    brutalguyracing

    brutalguyracing BIG DADDY

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    use a ridgid bolt extractor...been using them for many many years never had one snap......
    and its only a drian plug shoulnd even bee that tight
     
  10. Feb 26, 2012 at 1:33 PM
    #370
    brutalguyracing

    brutalguyracing BIG DADDY

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    best idea yet part the pos out.......
    i dibs on all pulleys and belt related items
     
  11. Feb 26, 2012 at 1:35 PM
    #371
    JLink

    JLink [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Lifted, Locked, Armored. Ready To Wheel.
    hahaha my dad is a mac tools distributor.. his tool truck is my tool box.. :D

    And actually thats a good point about the new clam shell. I'm hoping to not regear, but I do want to add an arb front locker after seeing how sweet the rear locker is. Maybe this is an excuse to make it happen sooner.

    fuckin toyota dealer.. can't even change the oil correctly...


    thats it.. my $5 drain plug is stuck.. time to SAS my shit.. :cool:
     
  12. Mar 4, 2012 at 12:03 PM
    #372
    JLink

    JLink [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Alright.. after a week of spraying pb blaster on my front diff drain bolt, and tapping it with a hammer to help break up any corrosion, then I drove it for 20 minutes this morning to heat it up, then torched it with a map gas torch. I was able to break it loose to change the gear oil!! :woot:

    the oil looked really shitty and the drain plug magnet was full of black goop.
     
  13. Mar 7, 2012 at 6:01 AM
    #373
    pAP

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    Just tint and ppl for now.
    Niice! Glad you didn't have to take drastic SAS measure. Lol.

    When are we going mt. Bike/wheeling again?
     
  14. Mar 7, 2012 at 6:37 AM
    #374
    JLink

    JLink [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Lifted, Locked, Armored. Ready To Wheel.
    Hopefully soon.. Snowboard weather is just about completely over
     
  15. Mar 7, 2012 at 7:27 AM
    #375
    pAP

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    Just tint and ppl for now.
    Did the snowboard weather ever start?
     
  16. Mar 7, 2012 at 8:23 AM
    #376
    Eagledynasty

    Eagledynasty The White Knight

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    In Mass........ No...... Didnt go once :confused:
     
  17. Mar 7, 2012 at 12:37 PM
    #377
    JLink

    JLink [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Yea just not here.. Out west has been getting slammed and even northern new England has been doing ok. Vt and Me both got over a foot this week.
     
  18. Mar 10, 2012 at 6:35 AM
    #378
    JLink

    JLink [OP] Well-Known Member

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    so here's the list of LED's I needed for my gauges and clock. ordered from oznium.com
    http://www.oznium.com/plcc-2

    - Tach = 2 White
    - Tach Needle = 2 Blue
    - Speedo = 3 White
    - Speedo Needle = 3 Blue
    - Temp = 1 White
    - Temp Needle = 1 Blue
    - Fuel = 1 White
    - Fuel Needle = 1 Blue
    - Odometer = 3 White
    - Turn Signals = 2 Blue
    Additional indicators:
    Headlights on = 1 Blue
    Cruise = 1 Blue
    P,R,N,D,3,2,L = 7 White, 1 Blue
    4x4 and low = 2 White

    Steering Wheel - 6 White

    - Clock - 3 White

    Total: 28 White, 14 Blue
     
  19. Mar 10, 2012 at 7:11 AM
    #379
    JLink

    JLink [OP] Well-Known Member

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  20. Mar 10, 2012 at 7:13 AM
    #380
    mntbiker2008

    mntbiker2008 First I derp.. then I herp

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    sweet! I saw you are going to the Moab meet also. I am planning on going as well. Probably flying in to Denver and riding out with Hoyal
     
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