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Just bought a '97 3RZ 4wd with 240k for cheap, need help with major replacement parts

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by Benwaah, Nov 2, 2016.

  1. Nov 2, 2016 at 7:57 PM
    #1
    Benwaah

    Benwaah [OP] Member

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    Hello all, I am new to the forum. I have been doing a lot of reading and I just have a few questions about what I need to replace with 240k on the clock.

    The first issue is a blown head gasket... Previous owner says truck has around 30-40 miles after the head gasket issue. I just drove it home (2 miles) tonight and have not yet had a chance to really dig into it. So I will be replacing the head gasket for sure....

    While I am in there, what are some common parts that need to be replaced? I already plan on replacing the water pump, spark plugs, spark plug wires, belts, coolant, engine oil, transmission gear oil, transfer case oil, rear differential oil+gasket, and greasing all zerts.

    I live in a town in Colorado where the temp will get down to -30 during the winter, and I need to make sure she'll run all winter.. I have about $800 to spend.. I am open to any and all suggestions! I am looking forward to tearing her apart and getting my hands dirty, thanks in advance for everything.

    -Ben

    Edit: One thing I forgot to mention.. I also am open to buying a remanufactured cylinder head, if mine is cracked. I plan on getting it pressure tested at a local shop. I will also be thoroughly inspecting the block where the head meets to make sure there is no corrosion. If there is corrosion, what would be the best avenue to take??
     
    Last edited: Nov 2, 2016
  2. Nov 2, 2016 at 9:25 PM
    #2
    DrZ

    DrZ Well-Known Member

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    Check the valve clearances before removing the cams. At 240K they are likely to be out of spec if they haven't been adjusted ever. You can shuffle some shims around and/or get new ones to adjust clearances if you end up reusing the same head.
     
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  3. Nov 3, 2016 at 5:17 AM
    #3
    Benwaah

    Benwaah [OP] Member

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    Thanks DrZ, I will be sure to do that.
     
  4. Nov 3, 2016 at 9:27 PM
    #4
    Benwaah

    Benwaah [OP] Member

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    I have my first parts order, well, ordered.

    Includes:

    FelPro #HS9465PT Head Gasket kit, $82.99
    Aisin WPT-044 Water Pump, $54.38
    NGK (4441) Spark Plug Wire set, $36.88
    Denso K16R-U Spark Plugs x4, $2.00 ea.
    Wix 33687 Fuel Filter, $17.69

    Next will be Cylinder Head bolts, timing chains and guides, dist. cap+ rotar, thermostat, freeze plugs, oil pump cover allen head bolts, power steering belt, water pump A/C belt, alternator belt, and a new parking brake cable.

    My question is, any brand of head bolt better than the other? I see prices from $24 up to $55. I don't mind paying $50, but if there is a cheaper option that is just as reliable, I'm cool with saving a few pennies.

    Well one more day of work then I can rip the head out and get it compression tested on Saturday.
     
  5. Nov 3, 2016 at 10:37 PM
    #5
    3rYODA

    3rYODA Don’t sell to me, I don’t pay.

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    Fox 2.5’s up front, icon 2.0 rear shocks, stock leafs, !Meso map and dome lights make all the difference in the world!
    Toyota only buy Toyota bolts.... Don't ever stray from Toyota, alternators, bolts, gaskets and starters always get Toyota brand ...or what they use...
     
  6. Nov 3, 2016 at 10:48 PM
    #6
    Speedytech7

    Speedytech7 Toyota Cult Ombudsman

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    I've done a mod or two
    So I've told my story a whole bunch of times but I figure you deserve to know what you're getting into, so here are some quotes of what I've told others in the past.

     
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  7. Nov 3, 2016 at 10:50 PM
    #7
    3rYODA

    3rYODA Don’t sell to me, I don’t pay.

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    Fox 2.5’s up front, icon 2.0 rear shocks, stock leafs, !Meso map and dome lights make all the difference in the world!
    God you scare me I need to get my valves checked A fucking SAP
     
  8. Nov 4, 2016 at 2:35 AM
    #8
    Benwaah

    Benwaah [OP] Member

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    I actually came across this post while doing my research ha-ha. Not that it's funny, just dumb luck I suppose. I appreciate the heads-up :cheers:! Fortunately for me, in the case of a cracked head, I have the cash set aside for a brand spanking new one, with new cams and everything. Originally I was going to just purchase one and throw it on to save any hassle of taking it to a shop and having it tested and machined... But I decided to at least have it pressure tested first.. I have a feeling Ill be buying a new one though...

    I have read that Japan Engine is reliable and they have new heads for $595.. http://www.japanengine.com/products...ategory=5&subcategory=27&size=0&search=&page= as well as many other vendors on eBay motors.

    I know what you mean when you say they don't blow head gaskets for no reason.. I am just kinda hoping this one blew because it has 248k on the clock and the gasket material failed.. The only reason I have this train of thought is because the area I am in is one of the coldest in the lower 48.. our average annual temp is 38 degrees, and during the winter it's not uncommon to see -30+ for weeks at a time.. Maybe it's just wishing thinking, but we will see soon enough.

    I'll be doing all the work myself so I will save thousands in labor costs, but with parts and fluids and whatever else I need, I calculate my cost to be about $1100 if I have to buy a new head, and around $700 if the head is in good shape... Fingers crossed!
     
  9. Nov 4, 2016 at 3:27 AM
    #9
    evansdmax

    evansdmax Well-Known Member

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    If you need parts call this guy.... he can ship company is west end Engine parts (828) 318-1778 he's a little funky but I got s heck of a deal on some stuff for my 22re he deals only with Toyota!!
     
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  10. Nov 4, 2016 at 8:51 AM
    #10
    Benwaah

    Benwaah [OP] Member

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    Thanks! I'll keep this handy
     
  11. Nov 4, 2016 at 2:22 PM
    #11
    Benwaah

    Benwaah [OP] Member

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  12. Nov 4, 2016 at 2:26 PM
    #12
    evansdmax

    evansdmax Well-Known Member

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    Are you planning on doing rings? I would atleast hone out the cylinder s and throw a set of rings in it... with that added compression and "tightness" of the head in afraid it will start burning oil if you leave the bottom end stock
     
  13. Nov 5, 2016 at 3:19 PM
    #13
    Benwaah

    Benwaah [OP] Member

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    [​IMG]

    Welp, if I had to guess I'd say the gasket blew between cylinders 2+3. Will know for sure shortly. Plugs 1 and 4 were loose.
     
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  14. Nov 12, 2016 at 10:12 AM
    #14
    Benwaah

    Benwaah [OP] Member

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    [​IMG]
    Finally got everything in, gaskets were the last to arrive and just received them a few minutes ago!

    I hit a snag last weekend with removing the skid plate. The previous owner backed over something and it disformed the plate a bit and I cannot remove it. Even brought out my framing hammer and beat the crap out of it after removing all 7 bolts, nothing... May have to get creative.

    I couldn't remove the exhaust bolts that connect the manifold to the pipe, need an extension much longer than what I have to get them from the bottom.

    Work has been very busy and by the time I get home at 5:30 it's dark and cold. I'm hoping I'll be more productive this weekend.
     
  15. Nov 12, 2016 at 6:37 PM
    #15
    Benwaah

    Benwaah [OP] Member

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    I'd like to ask a question to anyone following this post who may know the answer, Regarding proper timing with my new head.

    How do I ensure everything is lined up correctly as far as timing while installing the new cylinder head? I do not have a distributor, it is the coil pack ignition. Since the new head will have the intake and exhaust valves in a different position than the head I am removing, I'd like to get everything lined up properly before installation.. still waiting on head bolts..

    Thanks in advance!
     
  16. Nov 12, 2016 at 11:05 PM
    #16
    DrZ

    DrZ Well-Known Member

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    The camshafts have to be off the head when installing because the head bolts are underneath the cams. Keep the crankshaft at TDC. That's easy to do because you can see the #1 piston at the top when the head is removed. There's also a TDC mark on the crank pulley and timing chain cover. When you install the camshafts keep them at TDC. There's a mark on the timing gear showing TDC and there are marks on the gears that mesh between the intake and exhaust camshafts to line up. You line the marks up when placing the exhaust cam in. There should (hopefully) be a service bolt in the exhaust gears to keep the exhaust sub-gear aligned. Make sure it's there and that you remove it after installing the cam.

    Just follow the procedure in the factory service manual pdf and you should be fine. It explains it better than I can.

    Search for some threads where people have replaced the head on a 4 cylinder and you should find some useful pictures.
     

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