Just fixed driveline vibration!!!For free!

Oh... you're rebuilding stock packs, okay. Gotcha.

 

welllll , actually I'm doing most all my builds now off of just the main spring, dumping the secondary (with that useless bushing wrap, its a joke)leaf, so I guess theres a couple ways to look at it..

Questions I get:
vvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvv

Is it a rebuild of the stockers ?

Not so much now...


Isn't it just an AAL ?

Most def. NOT just an AAL. Seems that 90% of aftermarket AAL's are really no better than what they started with & from info I get most of them start to fail within a year or less, makes me think that they just get some more shitty Tacoma springs & hack'em to fit, its like throwing more shit on the existing pile. This has turned out to be an actual suspension upgrade that will run "tit for tat" with the big aftermarket springs...no shit..

& then they start asking opinions on the usual name brand springs & at that point the conversation is over, the usual brands are all good springs
But I'm here to talk about mine , not theirs.. I tell them

 

Cool man. Wish I would have built some 63s and done a shackle flip/relocate on my truck before I dropped coin on the dakars but ah well...

 

Oh hell ya, I hear ya bro' , its almost always been that way for me, not really having the funds, buying after market products & end up with a huge plate of "buyers remorse" learning after the fact that I could have achieved or exceeded expectations by using my natural "outside the box" way of doing shit, even with something so simple as 5100's in front , I deviate from the norm & went with 1st gen Tundra 5100's with 5 settings instead of the usual 3 that 99% members here have.....

 

Where did everyone get the 3/4" cb drop plate? I'll give this a run.

 

Actually I hunted around in my misc. nut/bolt bin & found 2 washered aircraft nuts that were 3/4" & 2 that were 1". They were just big enough to slip over the bolts that hold up the carrier, tightened up, done,fixed..

(the 3/4" was the fix)

 

Well, I got my OME CB kit from 4WheelParts.com today (they have a local store so the shipping was free) . As you guys know, this is a cake thing to do so I tried a few options.
1st... I added the 3/4 plate and bolts. Ran it up to 60 and it was worse
2nd.. I added a fat washer I had in the garage and it was worse again.
3rd... I removed the 3/4 plate and left the washer and it was about the same as when I started.

Fuuuuuuuuuuuuuu!


With just the washer...


Just a shot of the 3/4 plate for scale...


I could try an run up to 1" but given it got worse at 3/4 + a washer... I doubt this will help. Eyeballing it, the shaft looks pretty damn straight through the CB.

Ideas?

 

The OME CB drop is only 3/8" thick , is that what you are reffering to when you say 3/4" plate ? or did you try a thicker spacer ?

 

You're right... its 3/8". So that says... i need a bit more to match what is working for the other guys. Grr.. I didnt even check that (obviously).

 

Head over to the hardware store and get some metal bar to the thickness you need. Cut it and drill it, presto. Might work, might not.

 

so, I've read through this about 50 times. I get some of you think axle shims are a waste, others they work. I have the dakars out back and know they tilt the pinion up. Currently I have a take off vibe up to about 10mph then againt at 20-30 with accel and deceleration and a constant minor vibe at 40-50. The TC is angled at 2.5* down, first shaft 9.5* down, second shaft 9.5* down, and the pinion is 4.5* up. The total driveshaft length is 2/16" longer on top. I'm thinking a 2* shim fat end forward should fix some of this. The u joint angles are steep at 7* but ?? Does this sound right or am I off somewhere?

 

Heheheh, I don't think axle shims are a waste at all, just like everything else though, they have their place where applicable, shit years ago that was the only logical place to shim up or down was right there at the spring perch on top of axle, there were no dbl cardans for either one piece or 2 piece shafts (I dont recall even seeing a 2 piece back in those days)

All you had were, the drive shaft with a U joint at one end to bolt up to tailshaft on trans. a sliding yoke with another U joint that bolted up to the flange on the rear diff. I've done a hundred of these vibe issued drivelines over the course of 30 + years & when you start with all the number jockying i.e;, 2.5*, 9" down, 4.5 across & so on, gotta say it just leaves me confused as all hell haha.., we'd just play with it till we got rid of it all together or at worst , got it to an acceptable degree of "right"

 

Ya know, i just had a thought, most of you that continue to be plagued by the vibes & shudder, regardless of what correction you make, you guys are 2nd gens (I know it can happen with 1st gens, mine had a vibe after lifting as well) but the single biggest difference is I'm betting you guys don't have sliding yokes, just the 2 piece shaft with the dbl cardan, if ya'll haven't checked to see if you DO have a sliding yoke, i think you should check for sure.... just somethiong to consider anyway...

 

I installed a Toytec 3 inch kit with blocks in the back. After the lift I had a drive-line vibration around 58-62mph. I tried the CB shims with no luck. After reading this thread I dropped the CB and flipped it around and reinstalled the shims. No luck. I went back and removed the shims, but left the CB upside down and that did the trick for me. No more vibration on the highway. What a relief. My truck drives almost at smooth as the day i drove it off the lot. The only very very small vibration is from my tires. Thanks hvacbmac and everyone else who has gone through this

 

Thats great news man, but a quick question... how is the drive angle at the rear diff yoke with the driveshaft ??

 

I do not have an angle meter, but can take pics later on today and post. When looking at the drive shaft and rear diff it does not seem like an extreme angle or wrong in any other way

 

Oh , pics aren't necessary bro', you answered my question....

 

the second gens do not have sliding yokes and have a single u joint at the carrier baring. no double cardan. which is more than likely why this is more of a second gen issue.

 

Yeah, thats the point I was getting to, no dbl cardan huh, it must vary from year to year then, because I've done some 2nd gens with dbl cardans, but regardless, I'm thinking the absense of a sliding yoke may be the determining factor....Hmmmm.....

 

perhaps. the double cardan probably doesnt hurt either.