Kicker Tweeter Capacitor Blown (H631SFJ101)

I blew the capacitor on one of the Kicker "Subaru" tweeters. Is the capacitor worth replacing or would it be best to just buy another set?

Backstory:
I installed the Kicker tweeter upgrade in 2019 and they have been working great. Since then I have replaced the door speakers which are powered by a Rockford Fosgate PBR400X4D 50W x 4 Compact Amplifier. I recently installed a sub behind the seat and was tried powering it with a Skar Audio SK-M5001D Compact Monoblock Class D MOSFET Car Amplifier, 500W. The SKAR amp was not my first choice in amps but it came with the setup from someone who was parting out their build. I could not get the amp to stay on no matter what configuration I used for the power, ground, and rca connections. I have given up on the amp and will be picking up a new RF 500watt amp.

During the install one of the wires came out of the but connectors which must have caused the capacitor on the driver side tweeter to blow out. I'd like get the tweeter repaired, but the black cement holding the capacitor together makes it tough to remove. Is it worth working on or should I just cut my losses and get a new set of "Subaru" tweeters?

 

You should be able to replace the cap for pennies. If it's not too much of a PITA to access the leads, just replace it. Almost looks like you might destroy the thing in the process though.

 

I always see moments like this as an opportunity to spend way too much on something I don’t need.

“Aw shucks baby, muh tweeter ‘sploded! Guess I have to get some kinda replacement... /sadface”

 

DON'T buy a new set! That capacitor is wired in series. I don't remember what the capacitance is on the kicker/subaru tweeters is, I remember going down the rabbit hole with kicker tweeters that sounded like crap because the cap was rated too high only letting 12k hertz and above through. Anyways! If you can spot the specs on the cap, peel it off taking care not to damage the wrapper, you should see a figure followed by uf. and a voltage rating. as long as you stay the same voltage or higher, thats okay. Now the capacitance, the figure followed by uf, that has to stay an ABSOLUTE. Because that capacitance controls what frequencies pass through and get played. just connect the new capacitor to the red and black wires, the stripe alongside the case of the cap on the wrapper beside one leg coming from the cap is negative (or anode), and the other leg positive. connect stripe/anode to black, other leg to positive, make sure they aren't touching each other or shorting and hot glue that sucker back in place. the cap should only cost you $2-3 at the local electronics dealer. Link below is the wiring diagram for your speakers

https://gyazo.com/79729b309ad2c0cd254f4aab35c3c52f

 

Hate to burst your bubble on your first post and all, but audio caps are non-polarized. Also, "anode" refers to the positive pole.

Seeing that blown cap, I doubt the tweeter survived.

 

Hey we all need to be put in our place every once in a while. You're absolutely right, audio caps aren't polarized, plus we're dealing with ac voltage not DC voltage for the speakers so even if it was polarized it still wouldn't matter. But yeah you're right about anode being positive. I always get those confused, and I asked Google to make sure before I made my last post and it still gave me the wrong info. I'm kind of with you on that, but I have faith in these tweeters. They're rated at 150 watts RMS, 300 peak each tweeter, so there's a damn good chance that it might have pulled through