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Knuckles....steering etc

Discussion in 'Long Travel Suspension' started by Redbeardfifty, Jul 10, 2020.

  1. Jul 10, 2020 at 1:59 AM

    Redbeardfifty [OP] Well-Known Member

    Jun 3, 2020
    Are any of these long travel kits or heck mid travel even, pushing the knuckle forward?

    Are you loosing maximum steering radius? Or are they relocating the steering rack?
    Or is it a matter of shortening the tie rod nub on the knuckle to bring it back in line with the rack?

    how is this affecting the Ackerman?

    im debating making my steering nub on my knuckle double sheer for a heim and misalignment. But the amount of fab work makes me think i should cut it off and weld soemthing new on.

    if I make the nub shorter and closer to the kpi access I can get more steering angle... and then if I decide to go from mid travel to long, I can move the knuckle forward for better tire clearance and that’s where the above questions come in...

    plus it’s late and I don’t sleep much. So maybe this is more for discussions sake rather than me modifying this spare set of knuckles...
  2. Jul 10, 2020 at 4:46 AM

    DocME Well-Known Member

    Aug 24, 2018
    '07 FJ Cruiser
    TRD S/C, UCON, 61# inj, 2.5 pulley, 7th inj, Roostfactor Y Pipe, URD exhaust, WAT Nomad Valve body, Dana 60, DK LT, JD FAB LCA mounts, custom roof rack...and way too many others.
    There’s a couple kits that move the tires forward for clearance, one that comes to mind is Marlin’s RCLT if it becomes available. Also, check out this thread for a new lower control arm subframe that accomplishes this in an adjustable fashion: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...dding-long-travel-and-934-cv’s.626274/page-17

    Most companies arm kits actually move the the upper pivot on the kpi rearward to assist in gaining caster that is lost by raising the ride height. Which obviously creates challenges with fitting larger tires.

    a couple of companies use manufactured spindles that could have modified tie rod positions, but I can’t confirm that. I have not seen any rack relocations to compensate for modification of the outer tie rod position. Nor can I really comment on the effects of change to the Ackerman geometry but it would seem to me that you’d also need to factor in changes to track widths, increased ride height geometry, and increased body roll during turning when looking at that. All of which probably have a greater impact on steering geometry than a 1/4 movement in tie rod mounting location

    edit: also just finished my spindle gussets and tie rod reinforcements this week. Double shear hiem joint mounting for the stock location. For $50 for the brackets or $300 ish for the kit is a pretty nice deal. I think they turned out good. Hopefully I can finish up my bump stop mounts and bypass hoops this weekend and get it back on it’s own weight.

    Last edited: Jul 10, 2020
    j4roe, jdiola, Adventure4x4 and 2 others like this.

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