KO2s load rating ‘e’ worth it?

No. Very poor traction in the rain and a pretty rough ride... I switched to cooper at3 xlt's and they perform much better

 

Would e load have prevented this?
https://ibb.co/Qj5gPxj

 

I run E rated tires. My buddy is running 35 E rated. I find that lowering tire pressures gives a great compromise in ride quality. My tire shop states I should run no less than 40, but it feels terrible. I run 36 front and 34 rear.

There is a slight takeaway running low pressures which is wearing down of tires at an accelerated rate. I find that rotating tires often combats this very well.

 

I have had Load E on my taco for like 70k and other than being a little heavier they are a lot more durable. I have ran over a toolbox on an expressway, last week I pulled out 3 screws and a screwdriver out of my tire and none of them went through. If you are in areas with shitty roads or lots of debris run the Load E, it will save you a lot of hassle

 

The BFG KO E have three ply sidewalls very few tires have this 3 ply sidewall just a handful of offroad tires, its much better if you drive offroad in sharp rocks like quartz, flint, slate, the sidewalls are much more resistant to puncture, I run offroad mining in Nevada and have no troubles with E rated BFG's, have seen several sidewall punctures on standard b range offroad tires with others in our group. Also the E range is much better if you tow a travel trailer with heavy tongue weight, you may pay a little more for the BFG KO E range but you will get much longer treadwear over most other tires too. I run 38 lbs all around for towing my travel trailer for better overall control and mpg, but unloaded around town I run 32 lbs and its much softer ride, very noticable.

 

Ahhh the SL, C, E load TacomaWorld argument. It's a classic.

E load tires are overkill on a Tacoma. The ride will be significantly harsher, louder and your MPG will suffer noticeably. Your gains will be in tire durability in the most extreme of conditions. Forest service roads, deep snow and ice do not count as extreme conditions.

 

Okay so I would like to get 6 ply tires but I can only find the Duratracs 265 width in a 4 ply.
Could I run a 275 width tire on my rim that I believe is meant for 265s?

 

Lol. My wife's Subaru is now running a thicker ply tire than my tacoma is now...

 

I love my tires, so I'd recommend E. My wheels are to help me get over certain things in the woods and not worry so much about puncturing. There's a lot of broken branches, etc.

I also only drive 2 miles to work everyday and the ride isn't too bad.

 

honestly I never had Ride issues with load E tires... my gf doesn't like how the steering feels but other than that they ride just fine, even at 38psi

 

My sl rated winters don't ride any better than my e rated wildpeaks. play with tire pressures and the ride is fine. People running 36+ psi on e rated tires are just asking for back problems.

 

Significant, no. Even my stock tires were louder. If you're worried about MPG then don't drive a truck!

Now if you're paying for my tires, upgrades and my gas then I will gladly take your advice.

 

I've thought about going to C loads for better mileage and rotational inertia, but with the harsh lava here in Hawaii, I'm glad I have my E load KO2's. I can't advise for snow since I rarely drive in it in Hawaii.

 

E Rating decision depends on how you run the truck. For paved roads and soft graded dirt, you probably don't need the 10 ply E's.

I run fast daily over unfinished roads with sharp lava rock chunks on the roadway and sticking into the roadway from stacked rock walls on the sides, and sharp deep potholes. The E rated KO2's have never had any problem with intrusion or cracks in the tread or sidewalls in 5 sets over a number of years. I change them out at around 25k, as added insurance. They still look pretty good and this has saved me much grief. Tire changes is no longer the fun adventure it was when I was younger, especially late at night in the rain in wild places.

The OEM's and other lesser tires have all succumbed to road hazards, usually holes in addition to nails and pieces of iron.

When the Tacoma is running light, I keep the tire pressure at 31 cold/33-34 hot. If I load up the bed, they go up a couple of pounds. Lower pressures soften the ride over the rough stuff and add to traction in the mud. I'm not running on highways or other fast pavement.

 

I actually had insane issues with SL Wildpeaks AT3W’s, they’d never balance on my truck. Tried NINE different tires at a Falken dealer... said screw it and went BFG. Dealer’s first try - perfect.

On a side note:
Falken let me return all tires!

 

Do any of y'all running E rated tires notice steering wheel wobble after your truck sits for 12+ hours? I've ran Cooper STT Pro & now Nitto Ridge Grapplers, which I've noticed this w/both sets. After my truck sits overnight, or longer, I get steering wheel shake for the first 3-4 miles after driving again. I'm pretty sure it's flat spots forming & then they smooth out after a few miles.

 

Marshall R What Pirellis' did u go with? Thanks.

 

It can happen with any tire, but because E's are heavier, the effects are felt more. Those of us old enough to remember the early days of offroading with bias ply tires know how good we have it now. My 69 Bronco with 35" bias ply tires rode like a bucking horse for a good 10 miles, till that flat spot smoothed out. Luckily I was young then and my kidneys could take it. Radial tires have made life a whole lot better.

 

It reminds me of the bias-ply tires and that exactly what I think of every time it happens. I’ve never noticed this with a C or D rated tire and I’ve never noticed it with an E rated tire on my 3/4 ton or 1 ton trucks. I think it’s the combo of E rated tires and a light vehicle that makes it so apparent.

 

+1 Best tire I’ve ever had, hands down...