Kwik's BS Thread FEAT. BRONX!

If those gloves are 10 years old and that’s what they look like, I’d say just get another set of the same. My gloves look like that after 6 months but it really depends on what type of work you put them through. Welding and grinding aren’t kind to synthetic fibers and leather gloves aren’t good for mechanical tasks. I usually have three different gloves going at the same time in my shop depending on the taste for the day but some of my favorite general purpose gloves are the HF white ranch gloves. The Leather palms and knuckles are durable and nylon backs are breathable. I have full leather gloves for welding with FR liners.

I’ve never been a fan of Mechanix-type gloves because I always start to tear through them in one or two uses. I’m kind of an ape with them though.

 

Funny thing is, I remember getting the gloves when I was working on my resto mod '77 Firebird.

I was pulling panels and stuff off and wanted something with grips on the finger tips and wouldn't cut easily.

So they've been used strictly for automotive work.

Definitely no welding!

What type of gloves do you recommend for welding? A quality set that is. I'll need some for the end of the year for my trade school

 

HF Vulcan MIG gloves are nice for their dexterity and protection - probably overkill after you are more skilled at welding imo though.

 

Because, let's be real, Bronx brings all the boys to the yard (and not my 4Runner)







Went out camping again.

For the meanwhile, I've got the thermostat and o ring coming in but I also decided to order a new Denso radiator.

Figured if I'm replacing the other shit, why not the radiator as well?

 

Radiator is in!

Fucking mint -

 

Nothing interesting to really post but here's what I've come up with so far.

I drained my coolant in anticipation of replacing the radiator only to find that the coolant being over a year old is still looking like it's brand new -



Apparently, the radiator doesn't really have more than 40k miles on it total. Because of this, I'm keeping the radiator on and not replacing it.

While that drained, I figured I'd pull off the grill and recon where and how I'd mount my transmission cooler. Here's what I came up with -



I went ahead and buttoned her back up without running new lines because I was questioning what was the send and return line coming from the transmission. The left one that I'm holding, which connects to the passenger side of the radiator, is the SEND line -



The one to the right, that connects to the driver side radiator, is the RETURN line.

There's a different train of thought with many people when it comes to installing an aux transmission cooler.

1. Some suggest running the aux cooler before the radiator.

2. Some suggest running the aux cooler after the radiator.

3. Then there are some that suggest omitting the radiator altogether.

I'm on the boat of running the aux cooler after, mainly because the radiator does not provide adequate cooling thus allowing the fluid to warm up as needed. Then, any fluid returning back and out the radiator will be cooled via the aux cooler before making it back into the transmission.

Since I'm running my mount sideways, there's the suggestion of running the feed line to the bottom of the aux cooler, and then out the top.

I'm against it slightly due to the fact that there's little pressure through the lines, but a good suggestion was made that it forces the fluid to stay in the cooler longer.

We'll see.

 

@Jon64l makes turbo manifolds and has a trans cooler on his rig. Probably a helpful resource.

Edit:

Here's his trans cooler.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/jon64l-3rd-gen-build.441544/#post-14463635

 

I run the largest B&M auto trans cooler on my stock 4runner and turbo Tacoma. Also the Derale PS cooler on both. I do not use the cooler built into the radiator. This eliminates the chance of pink milkshake (coolant in auto fluid). Most of my driving is in the Phoenix Valley, it doesn't get cold often here. I could use it in a pinch situation, should my cooler or line become damaged. If you are in a cold climate, I personally would run to the aftermarket cooler, then the radiator to warm it up to a reasonable operating temperature. Or bypass the aftermarket cooler in real winter conditions.

Edit: I run the feed line to the bottom, return out the top. No issues. Take my rigs everywhere I can. Even boosted on stock auto trans, 13 psi twin charged, now just 10 psi with turbo.

P.S. I run line pressure maxed out all the time. Zip tie or make a bracket to hold kick down cable all the way out. Again, no issues.

 

Though you run the largest aux cooler for your transmission, I'm still wondering if I should omit the factory radiator.

It never gets colder than 45 or so and never hits 100.

Central Coast always has cool air, but I will be moving to the Central Valley where it reaches 110.

Maybe before I move I'll add an in-line thermostat and run both the radiator and cooler (if I have the 4R).

 

I would say get a aftermarket transmission temp guage.

The most damage can be done during Wot shifts. That's why line pressure is up, less time for the clutches to slip/smear.

 

You choose a routing method that fits your needs?

 

Initially I will bypass the radiator.

Once it starts getting warm in the Central Valley, I'll opt for a fan and/or larger cooler if necessary.

I'll need to run a trans temp gauge to determine that though later on.

Doesn't get warm enough in the Central Coast to warrant both the radiator and aux cooler plus it'll be near Winter once I move to the Central Valley.

 

Have yet to finish my transmission cooler install

With all the packing up Steph and I have been doing, not to mention helping get her classroom ready, been way too busy to touch the 4Runner.

For that reason, when the opportunity to hit up Hollister Hills came up, I said fuck yeah.

To the left is Chris, who came in with @outxider

To my right is @Taco-Obsessed

Right of him is @essjay

Next up @outxider

and last but not least @leomodz



Had a fun as hell time flexing the 4Runner again -



Apparently, I can't keep my wheels on the ground like Moab

 

It was a good day. Thanks for the spotting.

 

Oh no worries, thank You!

That flex is mean on your truck; now I want 35's

I just can't believe this though...



That's why I needed water

 

Little footage!

When we got there, we went straight to this Black Diamond part

https://youtu.be/SqPbKDKd2d4

This one sucked because the sand was super soft and deeper than you'd think, had to bump it hard

https://youtu.be/kIQFR8w8Zx0

 

The perk to working at a dealership and having 2-3 friends that work here too.

When I don't have the downtime to look things over myself, I can always count on someone here doing it for me -





I hate how stupidly short the upper links are, but really the geometry altogether sucks -



There's sooooo much room with the spare removed -

 

4-link for the win!

 

https://eimkeith.com/2018/10/05/4-link/

 

Oh you already know I'm waiting for it!

I ran into that, and a thread on 4R.org talking about custom 4 links.

Only for that link setup, would I do the small body lift.

I'm really just waiting to see once he's all done so I can buy from him whatever he has to offer.

@eimkeith ETA on that 4 link?