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L.R. U.C.A Install ???

Discussion in 'Suspension' started by brutalguyracing, Jan 25, 2010.

  1. Jan 25, 2010 at 9:39 AM
    #1
    brutalguyracing

    brutalguyracing [OP] BIG DADDY

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    broken mods
    i have an 09 d.c.s.b. and i have the 5100's set @ 2.5 and a 2" aal
    now i have just ordered my L.R. U.C.A. my Questions
    1. is there any special tools needed to do this install
    2. is this something i should do myself....
    3. is the install the same as T.C. U.C.A. as per the "sticky"
    any help would be great....
    im trying to avoid lost time and problems like i have had on my last installs of the aal, axle shims, things should not have to be that hard lol
     
  2. Jan 25, 2010 at 9:42 AM
    #2
    Lentsnh

    Lentsnh Well-Known Member

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    It follows the same tutorial as the TC UCAs. The only pain I've heard was moving the metal and wheel well covering to get the bolt in and out.
     
  3. Jan 25, 2010 at 9:43 AM
    #3
    Masada

    Masada Well-Known Member

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    Installing the UCA's are easy, just like the sticky. It's those damn ball joints that are confusing as hell. I would call Light racing when you get them and have them help you figure out the positioning of the ball joints. The instructions are really lame and completely useless when it come to positioning them.
     
  4. Jan 25, 2010 at 9:47 AM
    #4
    brutalguyracing

    brutalguyracing [OP] BIG DADDY

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    anyone have anything to add to that ball joint problem mentioned above^^^^^^^^
     
  5. Jan 25, 2010 at 9:48 AM
    #5
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Staff Member

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    4.10 gears, sliders, and lots of buttons.
    When you separate the ball joint from the spindle, dont let it fall.
     
  6. Jan 25, 2010 at 9:50 AM
    #6
    Lentsnh

    Lentsnh Well-Known Member

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    As well put something under the LCA so that when your unbolting the UCA from the Spindle, So it doesnt put stress on the threads.
     
  7. Jan 25, 2010 at 9:51 AM
    #7
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Staff Member

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    I tie it up to the fender with a large Zip tie, or bailing wire.
     
  8. Jan 25, 2010 at 9:53 AM
    #8
    Lentsnh

    Lentsnh Well-Known Member

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    Even though I didnt change out my UCAs, here's what I did. Same principal.:cool:[​IMG]
     
  9. Jan 25, 2010 at 9:53 AM
    #9
    Masada

    Masada Well-Known Member

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    I used a smaller floor jack under the LCA to help get the spindle back into the range of the ball joint. After too long though, all it started to do was jack the truck up.
     
  10. Jan 25, 2010 at 9:55 AM
    #10
    Lentsnh

    Lentsnh Well-Known Member

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    We should have done that, but we just used man strength:eek:
     
  11. Jan 25, 2010 at 12:31 PM
    #11
    jrobson

    jrobson Well-Known Member

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    The easiest thing to do is spend an extra $25 and get 2 new bolts from Toyota and cut the old ones out and replace them with the new ones. The tech guys at Toytec said they were even considering starting to send new bolts with their LR UCA's. You don't have to but it will save you a butt load of time and cussing.
     
  12. Jan 25, 2010 at 1:01 PM
    #12
    Masada

    Masada Well-Known Member

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    What bolts?

    Are you talking about the really long ones that hold the UCA's to the frame?
     
  13. Jan 25, 2010 at 1:02 PM
    #13
    BirdTRD

    BirdTRD Unsuspectingly striking from above

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    Front (2.75" total): 1.6" Eibach coils, Toytec 0.5" (L) & 0.25" (R) top plate spacers, 5100's @ 0.85", Built Right uniball UCA's, Differential drop, Removed sway bar Rear: TSB springs, Wheeler's 1.5" AAL, 5100's, 2* shims, Carrier bearing drop, F and R Spidertrax, 285/75-16 Goodyear Duratracs, Self-fabbed sliders, rear bumper, and skid plates, Cobra 75 CB, Bed lined slim lo-pro tool box, Bed Extender, Diff breather mod, Two tail gate security mods, Exhaust dumped behind axle, Can't leave shit alone so plenty more coming...
    Yep, those are the ones they're talking about.
     
  14. Jan 25, 2010 at 1:08 PM
    #14
    Masada

    Masada Well-Known Member

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    You have just as much work to put the new ones in as it is to take the old ones out. Why would you cut anything and put new ones in?

    I've taken my UCA's off 4 times now and every time I took the bolts out and put them back in without a problem. There's a little bending of the inner fender and few wiring clips that you have to be pushed out of the way, but that's easy. Plus you I couldn't even install my bolts in the opposite direction on the driver side because of some lines that were in the way.

    I don't know man, to me it sounds like more work and a little more involved than I would want to get on a UCA install.
     
  15. Jan 25, 2010 at 1:12 PM
    #15
    BirdTRD

    BirdTRD Unsuspectingly striking from above

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    Front (2.75" total): 1.6" Eibach coils, Toytec 0.5" (L) & 0.25" (R) top plate spacers, 5100's @ 0.85", Built Right uniball UCA's, Differential drop, Removed sway bar Rear: TSB springs, Wheeler's 1.5" AAL, 5100's, 2* shims, Carrier bearing drop, F and R Spidertrax, 285/75-16 Goodyear Duratracs, Self-fabbed sliders, rear bumper, and skid plates, Cobra 75 CB, Bed lined slim lo-pro tool box, Bed Extender, Diff breather mod, Two tail gate security mods, Exhaust dumped behind axle, Can't leave shit alone so plenty more coming...
    I agree with you. I haven't done it so I only speak from what I imagine would happen. It seems like in the time it would take me to cut off the old bolt, get out the pieces, and clean the shavings out of all the lowers, I could have just removed the oem bolt.:notsure:
     
  16. Jan 25, 2010 at 1:15 PM
    #16
    brutalguyracing

    brutalguyracing [OP] BIG DADDY

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    does anyone know the part # for the bolts from toyo dealer???
    and to seperate the ball joint i just beat it right
     
  17. Jan 25, 2010 at 1:22 PM
    #17
    BirdTRD

    BirdTRD Unsuspectingly striking from above

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    Front (2.75" total): 1.6" Eibach coils, Toytec 0.5" (L) & 0.25" (R) top plate spacers, 5100's @ 0.85", Built Right uniball UCA's, Differential drop, Removed sway bar Rear: TSB springs, Wheeler's 1.5" AAL, 5100's, 2* shims, Carrier bearing drop, F and R Spidertrax, 285/75-16 Goodyear Duratracs, Self-fabbed sliders, rear bumper, and skid plates, Cobra 75 CB, Bed lined slim lo-pro tool box, Bed Extender, Diff breather mod, Two tail gate security mods, Exhaust dumped behind axle, Can't leave shit alone so plenty more coming...
    Thank you for highlighting and pointing out what I thought I had already clearly stated.
     
  18. Jan 25, 2010 at 1:26 PM
    #18
    Masada

    Masada Well-Known Member

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    Ok so how long did it really take you to cut the bolt, pull out all the parts of the bolt and then install the new one? Did you installed them from the back forward or forward to the back like it came from the factory.

    I maybe takes me about 5-6 min on each side from time of unscrewing the bolt to removing it. I didn't like bending it either, but I've never had anyone look at my inner fender before and tell me it's bent :D

    There is a flat part of the spindle, that faces the front of the truck if memory serves me, that you hit with a hammer
     
  19. Jan 25, 2010 at 1:30 PM
    #19
    Masada

    Masada Well-Known Member

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    No offense dude, but the more and more you post about cutting the bolt. The less and less it sounds like a good idea. Why on earth would you UCA bolt be seized?
     
  20. Jan 25, 2010 at 1:33 PM
    #20
    BirdTRD

    BirdTRD Unsuspectingly striking from above

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    Front (2.75" total): 1.6" Eibach coils, Toytec 0.5" (L) & 0.25" (R) top plate spacers, 5100's @ 0.85", Built Right uniball UCA's, Differential drop, Removed sway bar Rear: TSB springs, Wheeler's 1.5" AAL, 5100's, 2* shims, Carrier bearing drop, F and R Spidertrax, 285/75-16 Goodyear Duratracs, Self-fabbed sliders, rear bumper, and skid plates, Cobra 75 CB, Bed lined slim lo-pro tool box, Bed Extender, Diff breather mod, Two tail gate security mods, Exhaust dumped behind axle, Can't leave shit alone so plenty more coming...
    Yes, I loosened the castle nut about halfway down the threads then wacked that top elbow next to the ball joint with a hammer. When it breaks loose, that castle nut will catch it to prevent it from falling too far and damaging anything. Loosen it with fingers the rest of the way and support the spindles weight either with stands or zip ties. Don't forget to take off the little bolts that guide the brake lines and stuff. I'd also recommend removing the wheel speed sensor too.
     
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