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LC2i Wiring

Discussion in 'Audio & Video' started by Nepsa2987, Apr 2, 2012.

  1. Apr 2, 2012 at 3:45 PM
    #1
    Nepsa2987

    Nepsa2987 [OP] New Member

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    Ok...So I have searched and searched but cant find what I am looking for so If I have missed it please forgive me.

    2012 DC and I am installing an LC2i so that I can keep my stock unit and all its features. I am going to wire it in to the rear speakers, but does anyone know where the best place to splice into them would be? Dont really want to go to the front.

    and 2nd, the LC2i will turn on by itself so i dont need a remote, but i still need to wire in 12v right? where do I get it from?

    I am no stranger to car audio but I would really appreciate some input on this.

    Thanks
     
  2. Apr 3, 2012 at 8:20 AM
    #2
    broaudio

    broaudio New Member

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    Hi there. You can splice into the rear signals wherever best fits the installation... It's really up to you as the unit is not too picky. The LC2i has a signal sensing circuit otherwise known as "GTO" which will make the unit turn on when a signal is present on the input. The LC2i does need +12V and Ground. I would just run 18/2 to the battery to power and ground the unit. If you have any questions let me know, I know all about AC stuff.
     
  3. Apr 3, 2012 at 5:31 PM
    #3
    Nepsa2987

    Nepsa2987 [OP] New Member

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    Thanks for the input. Forgive my ignorance, but when you say "18/2", do you mean 2 18ga one for postive and then the other to the negative of the battery? This ultimatly was my question as to how the LC2i actually was powered.
     
  4. Apr 4, 2012 at 8:37 AM
    #4
    broaudio

    broaudio New Member

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    Yes. 18 gauge wire... 2 of them. They'll sometimes sell as "18/2"
     
  5. Apr 4, 2012 at 12:47 PM
    #5
    Nepsa2987

    Nepsa2987 [OP] New Member

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    Thanks for your help. amp and LC2i came in today. and ill be building my box i designed with google scetch up on Monday. Gonna be ^^BuMMpIN^^

    Going with 3 JL 8w3's
    Hifonics 1000.d amp

    Box is only taking up middle and passenger side leaving the other storage bin for now untill I upgrade stage 2 of my system where i will replace the door speakers and install a 2nd amp.
     
  6. Apr 6, 2012 at 6:49 PM
    #6
    shaneckc

    shaneckc Fyntünd Designs Vendor

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    If you're no stranger to car audio, then my advice would be to make your connections behind the radio. The wiring harness for these Toyota trucks isn't too complicated, so I'm sure you can find a diagram. Splice and solder your connections properly and you cant go wrong. Also, with the Audio Control LC2i, using an accessory turn on, rather than its automatic one, has helped remove turn on pops for several applications I have installed them in.
     
  7. Apr 9, 2012 at 9:40 AM
    #7
    broaudio

    broaudio New Member

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    Good point, Shane. Signal sensing on AudioControl units usually works perfectly with OEM systems but sometimes it doesn't... That's why AudioControl has a jumper to disable "GTO" (Great Turn On aka Signal Sensing) and provides a "Remote In" for an applied +12V source. Using the remote input should alleviate any timing issues in a given system.
     
  8. Apr 17, 2012 at 10:30 AM
    #8
    matts11

    matts11 Well-Known Member

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    How did this turn out? I want to install a powered sub behind the rear seats and want to be able to tap the rear speaker wires in the door sills to minimize removal of trim pieces. Were you able to do this? Is the wiring for the JBL sub present in the non JBL equipped vehicles? If so it may be easiest to tap into these wires--I would assume they would be part of an unused plug behind the plastic panel in the back of the cab.
     
  9. Apr 18, 2012 at 8:02 AM
    #9
    Nepsa2987

    Nepsa2987 [OP] New Member

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    System Turned out Great. I actually tapped into the wires behind the radio as this was the easiest to find every wire I needed. after talking to the people at crutchfield, even though it has the GTO, it is better to run a specific remote wire to it. and I got all that from behind the radio. (pwr, ground, remote, and the rear speaker wires) Used these splices I found at wal-mart to where you dont have to cut any wires. you just slide the wire through this piece and place your other wire in the channel next to it. When you crimp down with a pair of channel locks or pliers, it splices right into both wires.

    I am not a huge fan of the LC2i though. If I had to do it all over again I would have just bit the bullet and bought a head unit and oem integration for the steering wheel controls.

    I have had to tinker alot witht he LC2i to get the settings right on it. (meaning when it puts the bass back in from the role off at higher volume) Still sounds amazing though.

    The 3 8w3's sound amazing, but it lacks that really low end that I am looking for. Soooo.... now I'm debating between the JL Audio 13tw5 and the Alpine SWR-T12. Both shallow mount subs.
     
  10. Apr 19, 2012 at 8:20 AM
    #10
    broaudio

    broaudio New Member

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    Nepsa2987 - Just curious... Were you confused on how to set the AccuBASS? Sometimes it's a delicate balance to get the perfect bass response. If I may ask, where do you have the "AccuBass" level control? 12 o'clock? 3 o'clock? How about the threshold control on the output side? Did you adjust that?
     
  11. May 10, 2016 at 9:15 AM
    #11
    gkomo

    gkomo Well-Known Member

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    Any pictures of when you installed your connections behind the OEM HU how the wiring looks? I have an idea in my head of how it needs to go but some backup pictures to validate my thoughts would be comforting before I dive in.
     
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