LCA Bushings: OEM, Energy Suspension, Whiteline

With either brand, I would recommend getting some of the super lube with the PTFE additive. Lots of success stories from people that have used it. I got a tube of it for my grease gun and I now use it for everything.

Had a bad creaking from my total chaos UCA's not too long after installation after using the supplied grease, then pumped it full of the super lube and it's been dead quiet ever since.

Since there aren't any zerks on the LCA's to grease them after installation, be very liberal in covering all pivot points with the stuff before you throw them back on.

 

I bought the whole ES kit. Did my body mounts Saturday and those were PITA. Gonna try and knock out the rest of the front end bushings once I get the spare set of LCAs and have the bushings in them. Along with new UCAs.

I’m tried of the clunking noise and swaying all over the road.

 

Like a rough ride? My truck by no means has a soft ride as it is lol.

 

I don't know if this deserves it's own thread, but I'll tack this here for now:

I have an '02 4x4 and the last time I went to the brake shop the guy said I needed new bushings (pretty sure on the Lower Control Arm) because the grease was leaking out or something. He then asked for $400+ to fix the problem. I did a 360 and noped right out of there.

1. How do I verify that my bushings are bad
2. is swapping bushings really as bad as depicted in this video (I've seen tacoma world members boast that it is a 30 minute job for both sides. I can't believe)
3. I have a new LCA on the passenger side and only need bushings for the driver's. Should I also swap the Upper control arm bushings as well? What about on the passenger side?
4. Energy bushing kits 83115R are apx $44 for a full set, White line is $65 for a half set (lower left and right) and RockAuto has these Moogs for $18.06. If I buy bushings from RockAuto is the price for a pair or per ea? I'll contact support on a weekday to confirm, but I figured I'd ask since I'm sure someone here must have firsthand knowledge.

I don't think that I should switch everything over to polyurethane, I'm seriously starting to consider just buying a whole new Lower Control Arm and skipping the hassle, but I don't know. I don't have a ton of spare time, but I don't have $400 to pay the shop, either. I'm just looking for some advice to replace the faulty bushings one way or another so that I can get new brakes and an alignment.

 

Sounds like he just wants to make 400 bones. For one, there is no grease to "leak" out of your LCA bushings (or uppers for that matter). I have 162k on my 2002 and still am running the stock LCA bushings (last component of the front suspension that hasn't been changed lol). I would call the shop up and ask them exactly what was leaking that needed to be replaced... perhaps the tech noted your Lower Ball Joints were leaking (in which case, deal with it and don't wait). Maybe they were referring to your CVs? I'd start there - call them and confirm. If they DO tell you the LCA bushings are leaking and need to be replaced, hang up and never go back there again.

 

LCAs are not a 30 minute per side job. You have to take a lot of front end components off just to get to them.

Then there is the issue of what you find when you do get them out. Are your cam bolts frozen? A telltale for that would be the alignment shop telling you they couldn't get the alignemnt right because they couldn't move the cam bolt adjusters properly.

 

lca's = not some damn 30 minute job.

 

*300 minute per side

 

I could be mistaken, but I am pretty sure he said bushings. I'll call them and see if there are any notes on the account. It makes me wonder if I should be doing my own brakes as well. Is there a reason he would be unable to do the brake job with bad bushings? I assume they needed to be replaced so an alignment would hold. If I were more organized I could pull out my alignment results from a few months ago. The alignment shop didn't seem to think it was all that bad, but I'm pretty sure my tires would be a lot happier as from what I can tell the inside tread is getting eaten.

I think my truck has about a quarter million miles on it with what I am assuming are the original bushings. I'll double check the next time I hop in.

 

Any good alignment shop is going to do a visual inspection of your suspension components. If they can get that alignment within spec, then those LCA bushings and cams are fine. Alignment tech would tell you if those bushings were worn and needed to be replaced.

As for not being able to do a brake service/replace pads/rotors because of worn LCA bushings - thats a new one on me... Sorry, don't think so. If they stick with the bushings needing to be replaced then look for another brake shop. Personally, I think they're just trying to suck some funds from you. Could be wrong though so definitely check and confirm what they recommended.

Sounds like you have some work that needs to be done. If I were you, I'd consider what I could do given any time constraints, availability of tools/place to work. If you can do it, then give it a shot. There is enough info here on TW and youtube to pair with the FSM to get the job done. Plus side to doing it yourself - you KNOW its done right, you control the parts being used and you'll feel good about it after the fact.

 

I think I'll look for another brake shop. I'll look for a shop and ask if they will report any odd findings while doing the job. I've been putting off brakes and alignment since I was told that my bushings were fucked. The truck drives well enough, but maybe I'm just used to it :shrug:

 

I wouldn't even ask them to look - just find a shop and have the brakes done. Alignment as well. You should pop into the SoCal section and see if anyone can recommend a decent shop. https://www.tacomaworld.com/forums/southern-california.43/

 

thanks

 

DEFINITELY not when you're cam bolts are rusted in place... then you spend 30 min just looking for the right tool to cut them out.

If I hadn't butchered my driver side LCA while trying to remove the OEM bushing I would say it woulda taken me about 2hrs per side...and that's IF nothing else broke while I was trying to unbolt it! I used the Whiteline bushings and so far so good. I feel like it's a wash between those and the energy one, because you still have to go through the trouble of removing the original bushing.

 

Same here, these threads remind me to service stuff quite often but keeps me rolling. I’ll probably buy oem again when I’m do mine I’m @ around 270 also.

 

Not only that but the rack and pinion is in the way and you have to wrestle the damn thing.

 

I'm pretty much convinced that the only "30min" job is adding washer fluid....

 

And checking tire pressure, and if you get lucky and compressor is already aired up you might be able to add air to the tires in that 30 min block. Otherwise throw another 30 min block on to the task time

 

dude i plan to go at it 2 more times and thats with new bushings

 

Jumping into this thread as I think this is probably the best place to ask...

Cam sleeves are definitely fused solid on mine.

Has anyone who had to cut their cam sleeves replaced them with OEM cam sleeves or gone with aftermarket? I'm a cheap SOB and am having a hard time justifying spending a lot of money on essentially a few chunks of Toyota branded metal.