LCA Question

Agreed, but I didn't need help load only bumps. My tongue weight of my boat is not that much but on RR crossings the sponginess was a problem.

I normally ride on the 4 position and it's stock smooth. I tow my boat with passengers in the 8 postion. For towing with passengers and a load in the bed like say going camping I set it to 9. Works perfectly.

 

Could someone please point me in the general direction of where I'd find the LCA bolt torque specs?

If anyone knows, it would be much appreciated!

EDIT: Found it 150 ft-lbs according to this guy:
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/193626-lca-moves-its-mounts.html#post4209760

Also think I found my problem... I was able to tighten them with my torque wrench set to 110#, 150 means they were REALLY loose.

And.... wasn't the problem. Tightened them down and it's still making noises (actually seems to be worse now).

 

I have them at home but I'm at work I'll check when I get home

 

Thanks John! I found this thread also:
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/suspension/186961-torque-specs.html

That one says 100 ft-lbs. I tightened to 110

 

Everything is torqued to spec, alignment went well and my truck drives and handles well without any stray noises

 

WOOT SO WAS IT THE LCA BOLTS THAT WERE MAKING THE NOISE

 

someone needs to finish the LCA cam replacement thread

I did mine to 100#

 

Yep, I think the fronts were shifting. I retorqued everything else also and found that the bolts holding the LCA to the spindle were loose! I'll recheck them in a week to make sure they haven't backed off again. If they do I'll put some Threadlocker Red on them.

 

and Toyota fails again....

Idiots should know how to tighten their own bolts up...

That could of been really bad for you and whoever you hit when your LCA came off. I would write them a letter or call them up.

 

Nah, that one would be my fault, Toyota never touched those bolts (at least they shouldn't have). I tightened them when I installed the LCA but then read they were supposed to be torqued to 118 ft-lbs. I pulled the wheels to check and retorque everything again now that it's been a week and noticed those bolts had loosened up. Yeah, that could have been bad if they came off! I'll retorque them again in a week just for my own piece of mind.

 

How do you get that part out ? The splined cam bolt I mean

 

In a perfect world (meaning if Toyota actually used neverseize), they should just push it through the bushing and it'll pop out the other side. In reality, I cut the bolt on the other side of the frame mount (cut between the frame mount and the LCA on both sides of the bushing) then the LCA will drop out and that spline bolt thing is seized inside the bushing.

 

Thanks Mike

The amount of the spline sticking out on my driver's side seemed to be less than on my passenger side .

Also the " cap " that goes onto the spline end on my driver's side didn't feel like it registered onto the spline , I could spin it freely

I inspected the splined end and it didn't seem damaged

 

If I'm not mistaken, the only way you see that spline is if you snap the end off of the bolt. When new, the part below is what it looks like (notice you can't see the splines). The splines appear when you snap off the washer looking thing on the left side. It didn't take a whole lot to break the end off to expose the splines. It's almost like they're just pressed together at the factory.

 

I was talking about this ^^^

 

and this ^^^^

 

When new, I believe those 2 pieces are actually one part (the one I pictured above) just factory pressed together which might be why you're having trouble getting the splines to engage.

 

I thought the front sleeve part came through from the rear toward the front , maybe I'm turned around

 

Went back and looked at the pics again and I think you are right Mike

 

I just went searching for stock suspension pictures cause you had me second guessing!
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/su...talls-full-ome-kit-rear-brake-lines-pics.html

I believe that sleeve assembly gets pushed through from the front, then the bolt also gets pushed through from the front and the rear is an alignment tab and bolt all in one. That stupid nut/tab thing was like $17 if I'm not mistaken but you should be able to reuse the originals.