Leaking Rear Diff UPDATE: Found new axle

My rear diff just started dripping pretty noticeably from the diff cover. Truck has been in the NE all it's life so yes the diff cover is rusted to shit. Seems to be leaking along the seam. Doesn't seem like a new axle is an option here in the Northeast, I've checked car-part.com and local salvage yard. What are my options? I've seen weldable covers and I have a welder along with minimal welding experience. How hard is it to weld a new one on? I'm not sure I'm comfortable pulling the third member out, I've never done it before. Anyone in Western NJ or Eastern PA wanna do this in exchange for beer and cash?

 

Are you talking about the back side of the axle, behind the 3rd member? Any pics of this?

Our axles don't have diff covers or seams on the backside.

 

Yup backside of the axle where the fill plug is located. I am aware its a one piece axle but the thinner diff cover is connected in some way to the rest of the thicker axle housing and it is leaking from the thinner cover due to rust. Likely just a small pinhole or two.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/rusted-diff-cover-repair-part-1.449412/
Basically same issue as this guy.

 

Yeah... I'd be pulling that thing outta the truck, get it down to a bare tube, clean it all up (get a welder to close up the "cover") and respray the whole thing... 3rd member too..

 

Welp, this is my DD and I don't have access to another car so that might be hard... I got in touch with a couple shops near me trying to find a more qualified welder than myself to do this properly

 

looks like it's rusting right through the diff

 

Fair enough. Your ubolt bottom plates are toast too- Even if you get a welder to close up the leak, you're facing some major component failure in the near future.

 

Man if the rear axle is that bad, how's the rest of the frame look? Can't see much of the frame in the pics. Where the leaf spring hangars are is a common rust through point, as well as where the shocks mount

 

I have a new set of u bolt plates sitting at home. Just haven’t gotten around to it.

Frame is fine. Was replaced in 2012. I have put woolwax on the past few years. I take it to the car wash and spray down the underside after almost every snow storm.

 

The axle is toast. Even if you pulled it, sandblasted it to bare metal, and welded the pinholes new pinholes will appear. I would buy a whole new axle from a junkyard and swap it. Less work.

 

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10628032&cc=1418442&pt=2306&jsn=894
Why wouldn't this work?

It's very hard to find an axle that's in good shape in the northeast. These trucks are 20ish years old, anything that comes into the junkyard is rusted just as badly or worse.

 

Fair enough. Best of luck with your repairs. Hope it all works out.

 

So one of my coworkers actually has a full axle, unsure of gear ratio but I'll just reuse my 3rd member. See pics below, this is pretty clean looking for the northeast, I'm gonna clean it all up then prime and paint it. What should I do to prep this axle before swapping over my third and axle shafts? New seals? Anything else...

 

I highly recommend Coroseal rust converter and primer prior to Rust-Oleum black farm paint top coat.

 

Where can I find that? I’ve heard of it before.

 

It's available on Amazon in quart and gallon

 

Damn, I am really trying to get this done this started this weekend and finished up early next week cause this is my DD. Is there a hardware store equivalent or somewhere else that might have something better than rustoleum?

 

Hardware stores and auto parts stores sell small quantities of rust converter for much higher prices. I cannot attest to efficiency of other converters.
This is why I highly recommend Coroseal. Low cost, high performance 3 day free shipping from Amazon.
You can swap the axle and paint it after installing.

 

Hm gotcha.... I"m seeing this stuff at Lowes and HD
https://www.lowes.com/pd/LOCTITE-Rust-Neutralizer-10-2-oz-Rust-Remover/4764091

As for axle seals, where can I get those? I'd prefer to go OEM but unlikely I'd have those in time.