LED backup lights

After much thread-viewing, I believe I have come to the conclusion that unless you upgrade housing, no bulb (LED or halogen) will produce a "brighter" output, just color.

I hope I'm wrong, I see these

$25 JDM ASTAR Extremely Bright 144-EX Chipsets 7440 7441 7443 7444 992 White LED Bulbs with Projector For Backup Reverse Lights Only

JDM ASTAR LED 1200 lumens as the most popular option among Tacoma owners on the forum.

Can anyone vouch for this? I'm looking for BRIGHT backup lights that won't melt or cause any other problems. I want to upgrade my OEM backup lights in my 2002 Tacoma.

 

I repainted my housings silver since the paint was flaking off after 20 years. It came out pretty good and I put the led bulbs in. It definitely whiter than it was before. It's a little brighter and I haven't melted the housing yet.

 

I got these a few years back. Just these, no other modification to wiring or anything. LEDs have less amp draw, so I doubt you'd need to worry about the wiring.

JDM ASTAR Super Bright Error Free 360-Degree Shine 921 912 906 904 902 3035 Chips White LED Bulbs For Backup Reverse Lights

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074SZY3L3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I don't have a light meter but I light up my neighbor's house across the street, whereas the stock lights I could barely see my fence.

So I could really care less if this is an effect of the whiter light or the actual lumen output.


I'm going to go out on a limb and say that if you want anything brighter (significantly) you need external LED pods. And if you do that, don't hook them directly to the reverse circuit - I feel bad enough if I'm backing up in a parking lot or near a street with these... Just wire to a switch.

 

I have never had anything but problems with LED bulbs!!

I no longer use them I just use LED lights.

I do lots of backing up in the dark

I have a project to install a light bar for back up lights just never got to it yet

 

I've used similar bulbs in the Cruisers and those throw some serious light.

 

LED's will never get remotely hot enough to melt anything. My 200W LED light bar heat sink barely gets warm to the touch when it's on for a long while. That's the beautiful thing about LED, they can produce great light output without excessive heat.

 

Do these just plug into the existing housing?

 

yep

IIRC, they may be polarity specific, so if you plug them in and it doesn't work, flip it around and it should be good to go.

 

I replaced mine over the summer with the ones in this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ChNJ24AIwhg&t=3s . They're pricey but I'm happy with them. Easy to install and no issues. Just have to tap in a resistor I believe it was.

 

You only need a resistor for the turn signals. Backup lights you shouldn't be adding anything.

 

You're right! I needed them for my turn signals. Thanks for correcting me.

 

WRONG !!! If you replace the turn signals with LED all you need is LED compatible flasher, not a stinking resistors.

 

the resistors are a dumb bandaid fix, but they do work. But you're correct that a proper LED flasher is the best method to prevent the hyperflash.

 

The only reason I did not put LED in blinkers in my 2012 4Runner is that there is no LED compatible flashers for that truck. I have a bunch of resistors that were included "free" with some LED bulbs purchase, but I would never put them in any of my cars.

 

Yeah, the 5th gens use a lot more solid state circuitry, so that makes it hard to change stuff around.

But it's not like resistors are going to make your truck explode.

 

They defeat the main purpose of installing LED: less current, less stress on all connectors. The LED durability is not an argument here as blinker bulbs life is very, very long (comparing to headlight for example) - I have that truck since 2013 and after 60k miles it has all original blinker incandescent bulbs (I have LED backup, LED front markers, LED interior, Osram LED DRL/FOG, LED bar and custom made LED rear fog lights). I'd love to have all LED (except headlights of course) but because of the flasher I can't put LED blinkers and because of bad experience with "dual intensity" tail/stop bulbs (in Tacoma they had a current leak) I still have incandescent tail/stop bulbs.

In Tacoma I have all LED (except headlight of course) and no stinking resistors. Welcome to my OCD .

 

Oh I understand, I don't really like the idea of resistors either, but if that's your only option and you like the LOOK of LEDs, go right ahead, you won't kill anything.

ONLY LEDs I have are the backup lights. Don't see a need to do any of the others. Maybe once (if) my turn signals blow I'll go LED. So far they've lasted 15+ years.

The ONLY advantage to the LEDs (relevant to this thread) is their brightness. That's the only reason I switched. I don't need super bright turn signals or brake lights. I've never gotten rear ended because they couldn't see my lights. (I did get rear ended by a kid on his phone, though)

 

Kinda off topic, but someone like you can appreciate this, when I got my Tacoma, 3 years ago, the headlight bulbs were the original Koito bulbs. I was shocked. Oem spec stuff is built for best longevity and best reliability, not necessarily best 'performance'.... Which is why I love Toyota, they're the best at it.
Can you believe those Koito bulbs???! They were 16 years old. I actually saved them for spares as they still work. Just not super bright like my Osrams

 

That's not the case for most of LED bulbs. There is no significant difference in brightness even in quality LED bulbs - the physics don't allow that to happen at least with existing technology. It's a long explanation, but I can provide if you have patience for that . The major unquestionable benefit of having LED bulbs is low current draw. It is good for 20+ years connectors and contacts (they are not gold unfortunately so they age). And resistors just ruin it.

 

outside of it being an extra step, is there something bad about running a resistor? you make it sound like it's bad for the truck, lol.