LED Dome Light Issue

Curious if anyone else has had a similar issue or has a solution. I've looked through forums only to not find the exact issue. I added an LED light in my dome light, it's a sylvania bulb, dont remember the number. Putting it in it flickered in dome or "on" position however with power on it worked fine in both positions. I added a 100 ohm 1 watt resistor as I heard this would solve the problem. I cut the leads of the resistor shorter and soldered to each end of the bulb. I reinstalled the bulb and now the bulb works fine in both on or door with the truck on however only works in on position with truck off, no light at all in door position.

EDIT: without key in ignition and light in door mode. When I push the map light button the dome light comes on. Map lights are also led with 100 ohm 1 watt resistors on each.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

You don't have the correct amount of resistance.

I used FOUR 100-ohm, 1 Watt resistors total and have no issues.

TWO on the LED used in the dome light.
ONE on each of the LEDs used in the map lights.

 

You ever figure this out? I'm having the same exact issue.

 

Yes, 1 100 ohm 1 watt resistor on dome light and each map light and then an extra resistor on the dome light and it should work correctly. CREDIT TO JasonLee for the fix

 

10 seconds = search

https://www.tacomaworld.com/search/7429469/?q=dome+light+issue&t=post&o=date&c[node]=4

 

it's well known the 01-04 have issues with LED map/dome lights due to the "courtesy light" feature. '00 and earlier should be fine

 

Thanks man. If I don't have LED's in the map lights, do I just need to add the resistor(s) to the LED dome light? Probably a dumb question but I am by no means an electrician.

 

If you do the math, a 100 ohm THREE watt resistor is the best one to use. I only soldered one per light and I've have no issues since install 4 years ago.
http://talonelectronics.com/shop/item.aspx?itemid=9574

From another thread I posted in years ago:
Lots of misinformation on here. You need to get resistors that match the output of the bulbs. 1 watt isn't going to cut it, that's why people end up having to solder two or more in place, and they still get extremely hot. If you get the proper resistor, you'll only need one. I used 3 watt resistors. These are matched properly and will not fail with extended usage.

 

@csjumper2003 makes LEDs with resistors. I'll give him a shout out for the ones I use

 

I just placed an order with him lol. Appreciate it man.

Are his the sylvania style LED's (look very similar to a regular bulb)? Or the Amazon style, with the open grid?

 

they aren't the frosted Sylvania type. clear lenses with ~6k color. think I remember them being the grid type

 

You don’t need to solder in any resistors.. it’s a feature for the courtesy light feature that requires the resistance of an incandescent bulb to function properly.
All you need to do I locate the wire in the a pillar on the driver’s side that supplies the power to it and provide it a constant 12v. 20 minute fix w/soldering junk.

 

make it even easier... just order the CANBUS 31 bulbs and be done with it. Have them in my dome and both map lights. no flickering, no issues. fade on the dome works fine. didn't solder anything. just done.

$15 JDM ASTAR Canbus Error Free GX-3020 Chipsets 1.25"es 31mm DE3175 DE3021 DE3022 3175 Bright White LED Bulbs

https://smile.amazon.com/JDM-ASTAR-Extremely-GX-3020-Chipsets/dp/B013TWUVMM

EDIT: these actually are quite bright. I have them rotated in the map lights so the LEDs are facing forward/up instead of down.

they are a little tight fit but will fit. dome light especially.

 

I bought these exact ones from your link and they still didn't work. with all three LEDs it only turns on with the key in ACC. so I used a regular bulb in the dome light and LEDs in the map lights. when i unlock the doors, all three come on and lock all three turn off. it's kind of a hack but would like to have all three LEDs. anyone have a better buld to try?

 

Sucks, sorry. Only thing I can think of is it could be an 01 to 02 issue, an S Runner issue (?) . Works fine for me.

 

I'll refer to my own post here. There needs to be resistance of a certain amount in order for the LEDs to properly light up. Having the one incandescent gives it enough, hence why it works. All three LED don't even come close to one incandescent.

Not sure about the CANBUS type, never used them. I know certain vehicles require them to not trip a CEL/MIL but otherwise they seem to be no different?

@e.deCastro you can always do what @ThunderOne mentioned and solder the resistors in. I'd rather not screw it up and I bought mine from @csjumper2003 and have no complaints.

 

I have a set of load resistors I can solder in. thanks for tips guys.

 

Kinda reviving an old thread but...
I saw this guys video, bought the same LED's and my dome light doesn't work on the DOOR function.
I swapped an OEM bulb in, and it works, so I don't think it's the door sensors nor the dome mechanism.

It only works on the door function if the map lights are on. So weird. It seems like some peoples work and some dont.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gws0qHUlmE4

 

You'll probably need to solder a resistor on to get it to work. I used a 100 ohm 3 watt resistor as mentioned earlier in this thread.

 

The problem is in Body ECU:



The contact marked with the arrow is supposed to provide power to all bulbs and cut it off under some circumstances (timing) to save the battery from being discharged. It also adds nice dimming effect. But for some models that ECU does not provide the power at all unless it sees connectivity to the ground. It could be that the voltage drop on the LED is to high for the ECU sensing the load or the current not high enough. Either way it is a f-up on Toyota engineering department - it appears that the "electronic department" in Toyota was always the week spot. In that area Toyota is always few years behind all competitors.