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LED lights under truck

Discussion in 'Lighting' started by STEVESTRUCK, Mar 10, 2013.

  1. Mar 11, 2013 at 2:38 PM
    #21
    STEVESTRUCK

    STEVESTRUCK [OP] Member

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    Remote start, nerf bars, Retrax tonneau cover, interior LED's
    Thanks for the info. For snoope, no, they came from E-bay. They are 5050 SMD LED Waterproof self-adhesive flexible strips...12V 300 LED's 5 Meter roll (about 16 Ft.)
     
  2. Mar 11, 2013 at 10:28 PM
    #22
    Kulahaga

    Kulahaga Tacomaized

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    Hey Steve,

    The info provided in both the responses from "mynewtoy" and "caribe makaira" are accurate with regard to the "blue" dome light fading "ground" wire.

    Keep in mind that the "blue" wire is actually a GROUND circuit when activated by the dimming feature (it is not a + 12 Volt DC circuit). You won't read a voltage on it when the door is opened. Rather, connect an "ohm" meter (not a volt meter) with one lead to the blue wire and the other lead to ground. You will see no resistance reading to ground until you open the door (releasing the door open sensor switch). Conversely, you will see the resistance reading (ohms) fade and disappear as you close the door (depressing the door open sensor switch).

    You may use an "add-a-circuit" with only a 5 Amp fuse. That will be more than adequate for a 5 meter strip of 5050 LEDs, since they draw =< than 500 MA per meter (2.5 amps for the entire 5 meters). Keep in mind that when you utilize an add-a-circuit it becomes a separate, independent circuit from the existing fuse slot that you plug it into with its own separate fuse. EDIT: Most of the under-dash fuses have no power (+ 12 VDC voltage) flowing to them unless the ignition key is in the accessory or on position. If you want your LEDs to go on when opening the door, you must find a fuse that has power to it when the ignition key is off. The only one I could find in the under-dash fuse box is the "Power Door Lock" fuse. As an alternative, you can run a power wire (+ 12 VDC) by placing an add-a-circuit fuse to the Dome Light fuse in the under-hood fuse box and run that wire to feed the positive side of your LEDs.

    I added a 5 meter strip of 5050 LEDs to the cargo bed of my 2010 regular cab using this method. They go on with the dome light when the door is opened and fade out when the door is closed. I not only have my cargo bed LEDs, but also another 1 meter strip of LEDs for my under the hood lighting and a replacement LED in the dome light as well as footwell LEDs, all on the same circuit and everything works just fine (total amperage drawn is less than 4 amps).

    I prefer this method of utilizing the dome light ground specifically (instead of an isolated circuit and switch) so that the cargo lights would not be left on accidentally resulting in a dead battery, since I have a tonneau cover that would hide the lighting being on when the tonneau is closed or during daylight hours. Even if I were to forget to close the door, the lights shut off automatically after about 25 minutes.

    Also, keep in mind that the dome light itself has an independent switch to turn it on separately that uses a different ground wire. So, if you turn on the dome light manually or turn it off using the dome light switch, it will have no affect upon the LED strip. The LED strip will only light up and fade out when you open and close the doors.

    I hope this clarifies things for you. Let us know how your mod works out!
     
    Last edited: Sep 15, 2013
  3. Mar 12, 2013 at 8:04 AM
    #23
    caribe makaira

    caribe makaira Lurker No More

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    Hood Struts, My version Fogs always ON, Map & Overhead Light Mod,
    [​IMG]
     
  4. Mar 12, 2013 at 3:05 PM
    #24
    STEVESTRUCK

    STEVESTRUCK [OP] Member

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    Remote start, nerf bars, Retrax tonneau cover, interior LED's
    Roger. Thanks a lot for the info. The main reason I chose the dome light ground wire was just as you stated. The less switches to mess with the better for me. And, as you stated, when the door shuts, they go off, and even if you mistakenly leave it open, they eventually go off.
    I do plan to use the add-a-circuit. The idea someone else had of putting in a bigger fuse not only doesn't protect the wires and circuit it feeds, it may also void the warranty if there was a problem. Putting in larger rated fuse than intended is never a good idea, and could be dangerous and costly!!
    Again, thanks. I appreciate your input.
     
  5. Mar 12, 2013 at 3:24 PM
    #25
    snoope

    snoope Well-Known Member

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    Thank you .....A 2nd set to "look at" :)..

    Please post up with pix once you are finished....This idea was "Slow" to take off BUT with more write-ups and pix folks might just ad it to their "mod list"..:cool:
     
  6. Mar 13, 2013 at 5:33 PM
    #26
    STEVESTRUCK

    STEVESTRUCK [OP] Member

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    Remote start, nerf bars, Retrax tonneau cover, interior LED's
    I'll sure post some pix once I'm finished. Just waiting on some t-taps I ordered. Hopefully they'll be in by the weekend, so I hope to complete the install by then. Hope to post next week. Thanks...
     
  7. Mar 14, 2013 at 7:04 PM
    #27
    STEVESTRUCK

    STEVESTRUCK [OP] Member

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    Hey all. Finished up the LED lights under my truck a couple of days ahead of schedule. Everything worked out great, and they look great, too. Thanks for all the input. I posted a couple of pics on my page in case some of you want to check them out. Let me know if you have any more questions.
     
    Last edited: Mar 14, 2013
  8. Mar 14, 2013 at 8:36 PM
    #28
    Kulahaga

    Kulahaga Tacomaized

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    Hey Steve,

    I viewed your pics... good job, looks great!:)

    I've included some pics of my installation(s). It's a little different than yours, but the intent of the under-door LEDs was purely functional so that I could avoid stepping out into a mud puddle or a pile of dog sh*#. They also serve as a safety item to warn other approaching drivers that the door is open.

    I've also included pics of the underhood and interior LEDs. (My camera doesn't take very good night shots.)

    Originally, the cargo lights were controlled by a separate switch instead of the dome light circuit, and likewise, the underhood and the footwell/under-door courtesy LEDs were controlled with separate switches.

    However, the mercury switch for the underhood LED is set up with a 30 degree threshold to turn them on, and it later occurred to me that should I park on a steep hill or driveway they may come on and run the battery dead.

    To play safe, I rewired the underhood as well as the footwell/underdoor courtesy LEDs on the dome light circuit. The switches for both still remain so that I can turn them off if I wish to. Now, I don't have to worry about leaving anything on, since the dome light circuit shuts everything off automatically. (Note: I prefer not to sacrifice my OEM switch locations for accessories that aren't activated while one is driving. So that's why I utilized nonstandard switches and locations for them.)

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    Last edited: Mar 14, 2013
  9. Mar 15, 2013 at 7:50 PM
    #29
    STEVESTRUCK

    STEVESTRUCK [OP] Member

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    Remote start, nerf bars, Retrax tonneau cover, interior LED's
    Hey Roger. Those look great, too. I especially like the ones for the foot well and under hood. That could come in handy if you had a problem at night and you were in a poorly lighted area. But who am I kidding? It's a Toyota....
    I took mine out tonight on the town, and my wife loves the new lights. Not to mention, the heads turning when I stopped somewhere and got out, or in. The only negative I see is when I use the remote start, the lights go off.....so, you can't have it all, I guess.
    I'm happy with the outcome, though, and my wife loves it, too, so it was worth it.
    Thanks for the help. My wife is thinking of things to do to her Tacoma now.
     
  10. Mar 15, 2013 at 7:53 PM
    #30
    benbacher

    benbacher Purveyor of Fun Vendor

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    [​IMG]

    Just did mine this week. 7000 lumens :anonymous:
     
  11. Mar 15, 2013 at 8:49 PM
    #31
    Kulahaga

    Kulahaga Tacomaized

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    Looks good and really bright... Wow! What are you using for a light source to get 7000 lumens?
     
  12. Mar 17, 2013 at 3:08 PM
    #32
    snoope

    snoope Well-Known Member

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    Nicely done on all of them...different themes but great ideas...:cool:
     
  13. Mar 18, 2013 at 6:39 AM
    #33
    OmegaQuest

    OmegaQuest Well-Known Member

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    sub for later
     
  14. Apr 22, 2013 at 2:18 PM
    #34
    B737

    B737 Throbbing Member

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    Lots of great information in this thread so im going to add to it rather that start a new one.

    I wanted bed lights that were triggered and controlled by the dome light / doors. anything less i deemed a PITA or i would forget them and drain the battery.

    i didnt over think matters, regardless of the debate about putting a 3 amp led ribbon on the dome circuit thats controlled and fed via the ECU, doesnt bug me.

    special thanks to roger in this thread for his assistance planning and checking my connections.

    bullet points:

    remove a-piller, drivers side kick panel, and the door sill trim back.

    i tapped the blue wire in the large connector in the a-piller, thats the variable ground from the ECU. for + i used the always on door locks fuse in the top right corner of the cabin fuse box with an add a circuit.

    ran the wire down, along the door wire channel under the door sill trim. there are several ways to get to the back and out of the cab. i did mine a little differently than those who went through the floor grommet. under these sills are holes open and exposed. if you look under the truck there are plugs in the threaded bolt holes where running boards bolt to the truck. (i dont have them and dont plan on having them). i simply passed the wire through this hole out the bottom to the chassis, its a factory hole thats open just sitting there. i sealed both sides of the hole with Butyl (available in autoparts store). super handy for stuff like this. ran the wire back along the chassis in a 3/8th wire conduit, up into the tail light, into the rear fender / bed cavity, drilled a hole through the bed box and installed a grommet for the wire pass through.

    my LED ribbon isnt here yet so ive got everything capped and tied off.

    i used 18 AWG wire that i bought at West Marine, its marine grade wire (weather/oil resistant), thats two conductor stranded, and its encased in a heavy protective jacket. about .50 a foot called "safety wire" (yellow and black). i needed about 25 feet. and 10 feet of plastic conduit tubing. This type of wire inside the plastic wire loom will hopefully outlive the truck.

    thats it for now, i'll update here once the LED ribbon arrives in the mail. glad to have the annoying part of this project out of the way ;) the rest will be easy and quick.
    special thanks to Kulahaga!


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    Last edited: May 3, 2013
  15. Apr 29, 2013 at 10:08 AM
    #35
    sfierro

    sfierro Well-Known Member

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    The end result looks great! Thanks for the instructions everyone
     
    Last edited: Apr 29, 2013
  16. May 3, 2013 at 7:26 AM
    #36
    B737

    B737 Throbbing Member

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    Part II of my install from post #34

    the LED ribbon came yesterday.
    agaisnt my better judgement i decided to give tape a try this time. in my last truck i secured the ribbon with stainless fasteners. i will go that route of the tape doesnt hold up... i used 1cm x 7' strips of double sided 3m tape. and affixed the ribbon to that. made the electrical connections. and everything works :) i couldnt be happier.

    i'll compile these two posts into a single one in another thread thats more on topic since this ones more about under body lights.

    the fact these operate with the dome light makes life so much easier. this is the only way i'd do this mod.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  17. May 28, 2013 at 9:19 PM
    #37
    808bige

    808bige Well-Known Member

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    More importantly...what lift is that under your truck? Looks sweet!
     
  18. Sep 6, 2013 at 6:10 AM
    #38
    TX TRD

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    this is what I accomplished as far as this idea goes, thanks to caribe makaira for the advice.

    Bought it on Ebay, just type in "laser puddle light" and chose your style.
    [​IMG]

    So basically I removed the door panel and drill a hole with the provided drill bit.
    [​IMG]

    Then I ran the wires from door to inside cabin through the gromet, I removed the speaker for access.
    [​IMG]

    I spliced the negative wire of the added light to the negative wire of the dome light. I decided to splice it at the door switch. Then I spliced the positive wire to constant 12V (battery)
    [​IMG]

    So when you open the door, the light will come on.
    [​IMG]

    I don't want to go into detail of how/where to run wires since everybody has their own preference so this is just a quick write up. The one thing I recommend to do before installing is to somehow glue the projection glass inside the housing otherwise, it will twist and turn from vibration due to driving and sounds coming from speaker. The projection glass is just freely sitting inside the housing. You can open by unscrewing the end cap where the wire are coming out.
     
    Last edited: Sep 6, 2013
  19. Sep 6, 2013 at 10:09 AM
    #39
    B737

    B737 Throbbing Member

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    That is awesome! ^^^
     
  20. Sep 9, 2013 at 6:24 AM
    #40
    TX TRD

    TX TRD Active Member

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    thanks, it was the pain in the a** trying to run wires from inside the cabin to the door....
     

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