Leds under headlight

White zip ties don't last long in the sun best to use black.

 

Yeah I know. I just used what i had. When i put the halos in then i will fix it with black bolts or black zipties.

 

Five months later, any update or finished product?

I just bought OSRAM Ledriving PX-4 (LEDDRL401) to put in that spot and wire it as a DRL (driving with DRL or headlights is mandatory in Poland, and I want to save my headlights bulb). They are only 30mm deep (1-1/4 inch) so they should fit with minimal cutting inside the grill. I'm planning to work on them this weekend (weather permitting).

I expect that the most difficult work will be actually cutting holes in metal fillers. As for the electrical connection I will power them from turn (blinkers) 10A fuse (red/black wire in J/B1). I have all LED blinkers, so this circuit will be able to handle extra 1A or so. For switching them off at night I will use green wire from the same J/B1 which is coming from the Tail fuse.

Some key features, that made me choose these over other brands/models: Power is 7W per side (that is equivalent of 35W halogen bulb), DOT and ECE certified, good brand product (I have Osram LED DRL/Fog in my 4Runner and works like a champ).

 

No I was gonna cut out the filler but i just decided to not put them back in because i messed up the filler so i just left the filler off. Im gonna do a 95 to 2001 front end swap. So when i do that i plan on doing the fillers. If you want i can still cut the other filler out so you can see what it lools like. Just let me know

 

No worries, man. When you swap the front to 2001 then you will have the chance to cut new fillers (I think they are not the same as for 95).

How did you cut the one you messed up? Dremel? After my move to Poland my mini mill is still in the storage so I can't use it for cutting. The original fillers are made of quite thick metal, not cheapo "ebay thing".

 

Yeah. I do have to swap. The vrille im gonna order is gonna come with some fillers. And yeah i used a dremel. I used the wrong bit for it. It looks fine from the distant but up close it had some curves in it. I cant stand it when things are a little crooked. But i got orange halos and they look pretty good with the halos.

 

Yep, looking good.

 

Also when you plan on doing this when you cut the fillers and if you do sand them down like i did. Dont let them sit for more than a couple days even inside put some paint on it or clear coat because the rust really easy. Mine were in my room for less then a week and started to rust very bad

 

I will have to do it, as they already have some small rusty spots . I guess the paint chipped from road rocks.



BTW, the headlight is not fogged out, it is how it looks after driving across Poland in winter. It's all clean now

 

Yeah my headlights were similar to that until i replaced them with the halo ones

 

This is the headlight difference. Left is the new one and the right is the old one

 

The left one wouldn't pass here (the right one either) - it's shooting light all over the place . I have Autopal H4 Euro style (with Euro legal cut-off), and set of Hela H4 (also Euro) still in the box. All cars here have to pass full annual inspection (not just smog, like in Cali). They even test shocks - I haven't see it anywhere before. No way to to put HID or LED in reflector housing. BTW, if car has HID it also has to have auto leveling system and automatic cleaning system (spray and wipers). HID bulbs behind dirty glass gives to much glare.

 

Yeah there not dot approved but the other one on the right will pass and are dot approved. There what came on the truck when it was brand new

 

Yes. The original lamps H6054 sealed beam lamps are DOT approved and they are terrible. They are not ECE approved (not legal in Poland as they would not pass the "cut off" requirement). On the top of all problems with H6054 is, when the bulb burns, you have to take out the front grill to replace it. Quality H4 (either "diamond cut" or "Euro style") gives much better performance and uses standard H4 bulb (HID or LED will not work here as they will throw off the cut-off pattern). H4 bulb can be replaced at the gas station from under the hood without disassembling the front end of the truck.

 

Oh i see now. I have to have the lights so i can see way off the side of the road due to so many deer. Especially on my road. Thats the only reason i got the very bright ones.

 

I like the separate lights @NightProwler put in the body piece. You could always sand, prime, paint, clear with rattle can paint after drilling the holes if rust were a problem and no one would probably ever notice since there's so little material left:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/night-prowler-build-pic-heavy.412096/#post-11647790

 

When driving my 4Runner through Yellowstone last year and seeing so many animals after sunset I used behind grill 28" 14000lm LED bar together with my high beams. I found that in 6k color LED can spot brown dear much easier than in halogen headlights. I need to couple this LED bar with my high beams, as working the LED Bar switch is a PITA while driving on public roads. But I need to be able to decouple it, as high beam will not pass the inspection if the LED bar will turn.

So for "wildlife watching" while driving at night I suggest good quality high power LED bar (something like 30" or more) coupled with your high beam, and have a proper low beam with clean cut-off. I don't need that kind of lighting in my Tacoma, as I don't drive Tacoma very fast (this truck is for shopping and hauling stuff). For long distance and getting into places I use much more comfortable 4Runner, and its LED bar is quite helpful at night.

 

It was cold and raining all weekend so no work on the truck. I just tested OSRAM lights and was preparing for install. There are few small challenges with this kit. Like with every "universal" kit, wires are too short in one place, to long in the other. Also the connectors between the lamp end the control box are not waterproof, but they have to bee just behind the grill exposed to rain water. So while replacing wires between the box and lamps, I will also change connectors to waterproof type. Lamps have to be on connectors (not hardwired) so the grill can be detached easy.

I also found that Control Box would take about 70mA with lights switched off, so the power wire (the one with in-line fuse in it) cannot be connected directly to the battery, but to some circuit that is turned on by the key. Other thank that OSRAM lights work very well. They are quite bright, taking 1.2A total (that is about 7W each). The light pattern is similar to what you would get after putting LED bulb int reflector housing, focused in center and whole bunch of "ghosts" allover the place. That is actually desired pattern for DRL, and of course unacceptable for using at night (DRL supposed to be high visible during the dayn and switched off at night).

I still need to find the way to access the red/black wire between turn fuse and hazard switch or some other place to tap in for the power when engine is running.

 

Yeah when i isntalled my new headlights i had to re wire the entire thing. Goodluck with it man.

 

I started the project of installing DRL under the headlights. So far I'm quite satisfied with the results. Thanks for the warning about rust. Painting inserts right now. Here is the thread:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/osram-ledriving-px-4-for-drl-in-95-tacoma.482787/#post-14749757