Let’s see some subwoofer setups!

Not yet. I'm hoping to get the amp installed and get the box in place soon.

Soon, as in before the end of the year. There is a pic on bestbuy.com review of it in the back of a 2nd gen.

 

Price of the Kicker Sub and box has dropped to $72.99. I just called Best Buy and had them adjust the price and refund the difference!

 

I've got the 2ohm version posted on page 41 of this thread. Edit: post 805
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/let’s-see-some-subwoofer-setups.571122/page-41#post-28920547

 

Awesome. You still liking that setup?

 

Yeah I am, more than meets my needs. I haven't changed the speakers or head unit, so just the sub and amp. Will probably do door speakers and an appropriate amp for them in the future sometime though.

 

Here is my humble set up. I just wanted to complete my music and not win competitions. Kicker 6.75” pre built enclosure powered by an Infinity Primus 6002A. I used the Axxess AXLOC-TY3 2 Channel LOC, its plug and play for the HU. This set up doesn’t disrupt the neighborhood but everyone feels it on the inside.

 

Happy New Year everyone!

I just started an upgrade project to my sounds with the addition of a New Alpine Mono Amplifier (S-A60M). What I had been running for years is an Alpine MRP-F450 that was setup to run a pair of 6.5's in the front doors, and a cheasy 10" Sony sub in probably the smallest, saddest prefabbed box possible. Now with the addition of the new dedicated Mono Amp, it's time upgrade the Box And Subwoofer!

The box that I have chosen is either the ********* or Supercrewsound box in a single 12. Kinda leaning towards the ********* box because it's 3/4" MDF compared to the 5/8" that Supercrewsound uses, but would that difference in thickness really make a difference? The shape of that style box fits my rear cargo configuration perfectly. I took out the seats years ago to make a Cargo Deck.

Finding a Sub Box that fits my needs was kinda easy, but now I'm trying to tackle the hardest part which is trying to decide on a Sub. I went down a youtube rabbit hole of budget subs that started with a fairly recent recommendation to another member that I read in this forum, which was a NVX Sub. That Rabbit Hole Journey went from NVX to Skar to Sundown and everywhere in between, we're talking about hours and hours of peoples content. I'm at the point of just too much info lol. My goal is this, finding an overall clean sounding Sub that can go well with all genres of music at a budget of $200 or less.

I can keep it simple and just get an Image Dynamic Sub at the same time along with the Box at *********, or maybe maybe something a bit cheaper like the Sundown LCS series for a bit cheaper. I would love everyone's suggestions, recommendations and opinions!

 

3/4 vs 5/8 is basically a useless argument here. Realistically it's going to have minimal effect on vibration, and minimal difference in internal volume.

I would suggest a 10 over a 12 simply because the airspace available doesn't really meet the needs of most 12's.

 

The trick is finding a sub slim enough for those boxes.

I almost went with Focal's RSB-250 with the ta*otun*s sub box, but ultimately went with the JL stealthbox for the 3rd gens. This 300w 8" powered sub from rockford fosgate is pretty good, but slightly higher than your $200 budget at $280.

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_575P3008P/Rockford-Fosgate-P300-8P.html
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_091RSB250/Focal-RSB-250.html?tp=111

 

If you can swing it, the Sundown Audio SD-4 would fit perfectly. Used to have 2, until I nuked one, and ran the single in an .8cuft enclosure for a year. Good sub for most genres, should suit your needs well.

 

Looking for a little advice for a sub setup. I’m a bit of a bass head so options aren’t looking great in the taco. Right now the leading candidate is just a 10” w3 in a box from super crew sound. I was also looking at the stealth box from JL but it’s a f*ckn thousand bucks. Has anybody run a w3 or similar sub in a simple behind the seat box like super crew or t*** t**** makes and also run or heard the stealth box from JL? Any difference? I’m willing to spend the extra cash if it’s worth it but I can’t see how it is being they are both sealed boxes. A better question might be, is there a pre fab ported box for a 10” sub that fits in the taco that anyone knows about. I Forrest Gumped my way into 2 12” w6’s in a beast of ported box with a JL 1000w amp in my s10 blazer back in the day. I about sh*t my pants when I first fired that thing up. Kinda ruined me for sub setups since. A ported box is just so much better in a vehicle imo but I don’t see how it’s possible in the taco without a big custom install. Maybe passive radiator? Anyone have good luck with those?

 

It depends how committed you are to the bass. You always have the option of pulling out a seat in the rear and building a platform like I did lol. If you’re committed to doing a behind the seat box, then check out this one from Maui sounds.

https://mauisounds.com/products/dpszbn45emwl2h6j3cw344occd9c43

you should really go for the seat removal though

 

passive radiators always take up about as much space as a ported setup. difference is no port noise, and easier ability to tune the frequency.

i built a passive radiator box for my truck. it's installed, but i changed careers, and am hoping to get it powered up this coming spring. it modeled ok in winisd, though a little on the small side...

 

In the past I would have 100% taken a seat out for a sub box …but I now have a 2 year old and a 5 month old so I have the ultimate dad rig with 2 car seats in the rear.

 

Ahhh… I always thought passive radiators required less volume than ported boxes and it was a split the baby solution.

 

Yeah I figured. Since you were talking about passive radiators, there is another subwoofer option that could save you even more space. I just bought the JBL dual 8 inch under-seat subwoofers with passive radiators. It’s a really cool unit that can be kept together or split in half. Also, unlike most of the under-seat subs on the market, these are externally powered. I got the Timpano 500.4 that I’m going to run bridged to output 100rms to each sub. I bought this to fill in my midbass (50-150hz) rather than act as my actual subs. I haven’t been able to hear them yet since my whole system is out of the truck for sound deadening and electrical work, but they are really high quality and they have good reviews online in the audio space. I think they would be a good option for you.

 

Hmmm…I know you said you’re gonna run them at 100 rms each. Is that their rms rating or can they handle more. I’ve kinda pigeon holed myself into finding a sub that’s able to handle 4-500 rms because I already bought a kenwood 802.5. Although I could just run speakers with that and get another amp for subs if I had to. I will say 8’s make me weary. I haven’t heard many, beside the garbage that came with my truck. I always doubt their ability to move enough air or reach the freqs. But dual 8s might not be bad. I’m currently in the sound treatment stage of my install as well. Hard to find the time with the kids. I’ve managed to get one door done so far lol.

 

Yeah that’s their actual rating. The pages online for them make it confusing, but that’s what it says in the manual. I think that kenwood amp you have would be perfect for some deaf bonce or down4sound midranges. Most of their speakers take 150-250w rms per speaker. I got 4 of the deaf bonce Sylvester’s for my setup.

I feel ya on the sound treatment pain. Takes hours for me to get one door done because my OCD wants every bit of metal covered. Also decided to do the plastic door cards too which was worse.

 

I have a vintage Phoenix Gold set up in my Tacoma:

Titanium 500.4
Titanium 400.1
10” Titanium Sub
Titanium Elite component midrange/tweeters

 

10" Kicker CompRT in a Skar Audio enclosure.

Requires a little extra push to latch the seat but don't want to remove any panels so works for now. Speaker grille dug into the plastic some.