Let's see your FJ case swap

no no no no. The one one the left is on the tacoma case that was mated with my RA60F. The one on the right is what was on the auto FJ case. You simply need to swap them over. I didn't at first, hence the leak.

 

Yeah, I sewed some windows together. It works pretty damn well actually.

 

Ah okay, I knew you needed to swap the planetary gear set didn't know the snout needed to come too.

I'll make sure to order a new O ring and paper gasket if applicable.

 

I didn't know that either, hence the mishap. It wasn't in Wyatt's original writeup which is how I missed it. It comes off anyways to swap the input shaft so it's easy to swap over. You'll just use FIPG on it as well, no paper gasket.

 

And here is the O ring if you wanted to put a fresh one on.

https://parts.mcgeorgetoyota.com/oem-parts/toyota-ring-o-9672135063

 

This switch is the same exact thing except it's momentary, correct? Since I can't leave anything alone I am gonna wire up my ADD.

https://rockerswitchpros.com/product/vld1-u66b/

 

it would look like it to me. Check the carling catalog to be sure. I ordered a maintained when I did mine because the momentary switch was out of stock.

 

That makes sense. I watched your demonstration video in your original post and I was wondering why you didn't pick momentary.

 

That last part # is the boot the other part # is not related and the picture is of the bolts and speed clips I used to install it .

 

i was impatient was all

D is maintained, L is momentary.

 

Best part is if you don’t butcher the floor or cut the hole to big it seal up to the floor perfectly no sealer required at all .

 

I was today years old when I leaned that type of bolt is called a dog point bolt.

I always called those body bolts because anything that went into the body or frame had that semi self aligning top on all the cars I have worked on.

 

Yeah that is what I was looking for, I intend to make as small a hole as possible, the 4" hole saw I used for my snorkel should be more than enough even for my twin sticks, was going to try to graft my factory boot onto the FJ boot for my "triple" sticks.

 

Thank you.

To clarify, this was scanned from the Fj auto trans version of the transfer case, correct?

I’m curious if it’d be the same for the AWD case.

 

If you end up getting an AWD case, i have an auto case sitting on the ground at home and i can measure how far those shift forks protrude if you'd like so you can compare

 

Next weekend i will be pulling my trans and fj t-case. I can check those then. As long as I don't forget.

 

Not scanned, just measured. But yeah, tcase was from an Auto FJ.

I'm pretty confident it'll be the same for the AWD tcase, wouldn't hurt to double check though.

 

AWD case and RC62F trans. Who want to come help?

 

Ok ladies and gents. I have been busy working on the RC62F swap with a FJ AWD case. Little clearance for the shift shafts of the t-case.
Info alert! The shaft of the AWD case when it's in the normal driving mode stick out about 21.5mm. The shaft that is on the passenger side has enough extra to trim off and still stick out of its seal. The driver's side has very little to trim off. The trans will need to be bored out to make room. There is not much to trim.






This pic is of the 21.5mm measurement into the back of the t-case. I'm going slow but making some progress. I hit a stopping point for today. It does not look like a spacer between the t-case and transmission would work. It will not take much before the seal on the transfer case to not contact the transmission.

 

how about a vf4bm (not sure bolt pattern is the same here) or vf4am case and replace the electronic actuator with a remote shifting cable setup?