Lift help, Almost there!

Those are some good looking tires.

As far as the AAL goes. You will get the best ride out of a full leaf pack replacement; also the most expensive. The 3 Leaf Progressive AAL will give you the next best ride. With this you can choose to leave the overload in if you have a constant load or tow a lot (some will leave it in and have not issues with a firmer ride..again ride is subjective). The single AAL is just that, a single leaf that you can add for some additional lift, or to help with a constant load or towing.

 

Ya I like those rims will probobly take them.
Yeah I'm in between the 2. I tow and use the bed so I do need the extra support if I'm lifting.

 

You might still have rubbing issues at 32.6". Usually anything over 32" runs a risk of rubbing.

It might be fixable with a high caster alignment but without adjustable UCA no guarantee you can get that desired caster.

Maybe look into a 265 65 18 if you're dead set on running an 18"wheel

Just remember if you're going to wheel the wheels will get beat up.

 

Go dakars then. Aal is just a band aid and sags after a while.

 

I thought yours only rubbed cause of the width?
Ares would be pretty much the same height urs like a eight taller.

Was hoping to gain the extra bit of sidewall. I heard guys with third gens increased their tires to 265/70/17 mine is 265/65/17 in stock height. So with that I'd only be increasing one size up.

 

Width is the main issue but height can still be an issue as well.

You're forgetting that with an 18"wheel that's an extra inch on tire size. Where a 265 70 17 measures roughly 31.6" you'll be at 32.6 which might cause rubbing on fender and other plastic parts.

My tire measures 33" and it rubbed on the fender from height and body mount from width .

 

Yeah I know. I went to diesel dr in Acton. Picked the rim above with -12 off set and backspace would be 4.5 I believe. They said slim chance of rubbing. Sounds like they just don't want to fully guarantee that I won't.
But like your saying if it's too tall it'll hit the inner fender.
How much did you have to mess with the fender for the height?

 

It does rub a bit when the wheels are turned sharp on a big bump. Not near as bad as my Gen 2 with 285s did.

RZ Rob

 

Lots of cutting and a big hammer.

Beat pinch weld and cut a bunch of the fender from rubbing which a lot of it was due to height.

You might be ok on road but off you might rub a little

 

Did you rub at the top on road? or have you been off raod since?

 

Haven't been off yet but flexed it out other ways and I'll still rub a tiny bit but not much more I can do about it.

 

Thanks man yeah I like them.

I'll probobly go with the progressive. I'm happy with the payload as is so I think I'd rather choose ride quality.

 

Your welcome. Looking forward to seeing the finished product.

 

So I'm now in between the 265/70/18 (32.6") and 275/65/18. (32.1") Id prefer the first one but if it doesn't work and the second will ill take it. Any other advice?

Best place to order from especially for the progressive add a leaf.

 

Be prepared you might need to trim if you go 275.

It will all come down to your alignment and how much caster they're able to get for you. Anything less than 4 degrees you'll need a cmc or you'll guarantee rub with flex and full lock and possibly at full lock in reverse. If the alignment shop goes for factory settings between 1 and 2 degree you will definitely rub. And where you set caster and camber is the same so changing one affects the other which is what makes alignment harder. And depending on back spacing of your wheel you could rub on uca

265 65 18 is your only guaranteed no rub. But youre also getting into a rather small side wall.

I'm not sure what you're whole plan is with it though if you're just after looks or use off road. I'm inclined to think looks as a 17" wheel would be much much better off road for the sake of more tire and better foot print when aired down.


Take Peter @tacoma16 who got 5 degrees of caster and me only getting 3.6 degrees. And we both went to the same shop. It's just the difference in what sets up first and what your whole set up is.

Personally I think 275s are a waste as you are likely to cut and if you cut may as well just cut for a proper 285 (33")

 

Ya I agree with all that. I only brought the 275 back in because it was a half inch shorter which might help for the fender. But ya you then risk hitting inside.
I defenitely prefer the 265 as it gives more sidewall then the 275 and stick size which should compensate for the 18's.
I'm getting to the point of saying fuck it buy the 265 and figure it out after

 

Or scrap 18s and go 17s and have no issues at all lol.

For what it's worth the 265 you want to run will probably only be plastic trimming. Just be aware the possibility of cab mount if you get a shitty alignment. Alignment alone might make for no rub at all. Aim for 3.5 degrees or higher which shouldn't be too hard to achieve and you should be good

 

What you mean 3.5? Dont they just do an alignment?

 

Yes and it's measured in degrees.
Your factory standards should be within 1-2 degrees of caster and 0 degrees of camber.

More caster means wheel is pushed forward more. But both camber and caster are adjusted by the cam tab on the lower control arm which is why it sucks to get alignment. You can't change one without the other changing so you need to find somewhere where it works for both.

When you lift it gets harder to get it right on.

If you run a 32.6" tall tire at 1-2 degree of caster you will almost definitely rub.

 

But they can make it 3.5 and I should be good?