Light Bar.. "Safely?" tap into existing Pod Light harness?

tl;dr : Got a new Light Bar. Can I tap into the Wiring Harness for my Pod Lights without blowing something up?

So about 2 years ago I purchased a Pod Light kit from Cali Raised (https://caliraisedled.com/products/side-projecting-led-pods-sold-as-pair) came with this Harness (https://caliraisedled.com/products/wiring-harness-dual-leg) Installed it, has been great since. Recently I purchased a 42" Dual Row bar from them as well (https://caliraisedled.com/products/42-dual-row-5d-optic-osram-led-bar). As I don't plan to ever use just 1 but instead both at the same time I'm curious if I can tap into my existing wiring harness and use the same switch to power on both without issue?

I'm still fairly an amateur when it comes down to this sort of stuff. Figured I'd post here if anyone is familiar with my equipment and willing to share some insight.

Thanks.

 

Most likely not.
Those harness kits are made with the expectation that you are running little LED pods. If they’re 18 watt pods like most are, you’re talking about 3A power draw.

that bar claims to be 400w, which is 33.3A of power draw. That’s 10x what they’re expecting you to run with that harness

 

You can get a harness for the light bar, and use the same switch to trigger both relays though

 

I would recommend buying another wiring harness and switch for the 42" inch light bar. Please let us know if you have any other questions.

 

Thanks much for all the tips. @destin_meeks I did not think about wiring it so it would trigger both relays thanks for the idea, guess I just wanted to avoid adding more wires to my engine hoping I could tap into my existing harness. Used the supplied harness the bar came with. Turned out great. Can't wait for the sun to go down see how bright the bar truly is

 

I would definitely agree with power it separately and switch with another relay. Tieing a bunch of stuff to the OEM harness is sketchy AF considering all the critical electronic components of the system possibly at risk. Get yourself a Power Tray or similar and a nice relay box kit and you really manage the extra wires nicely and all of it can be completely separate from any OEM components aside from the initial power take-off at the battery.

Fuck up risk is huge on these trucks. Shit, I may have caused close to $1000 damage just putting the OEM festoon-style dome light back in with the switch OFF and it sparked and blew a fuse....but also, due to a shitty engineered circuit, smoked a trace on a circuit board in the overhead console. The console is almost $600 to replace.