Lithium Ion Battery Replacement

Discuss:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Antigravity...y-720-CA-/251451303979?_trksid=p2054897.l4275

Or

Ballistic Performance Components Lithium Battery 16 Cell EVO2

http://www.amazon.com/Ballistic-Per...-4&keywords=ballistic+lithium+battery+16+cell

Is their lower CCA really that bad of a thing for a guy who will not be having a huge car stereo setup and not be winching?

 

looks like their amp-hour rating is meant for motorbikes, not full size vehicle.

 

The first battery is a riding mower/powersports battery. It claims to fit a "Race car". The second one is a heavy application bike battery. Both are nutty expensive. Are you looking for a truck replacement or for a different vehicle?

 

I'll let somebody else who understands all this stuff better explain it all, but personally i wouldn't run one of these. The main advantage is weight savings, which is why you normally only see these in racing applications. For a truck that's a daily driver, i see no need for this. you could buy 2-3 normal batteries for the same price.

 

I've known several people who ran these types of batteries in their motorcycles. They work great until it gets cold out (below 45-50°F). Then the batteries only start their bikes some of the time.

Supposedly you're supposed to crank the engine for a bit and the let it sit as that "warms" up the battery internally, and then you should be able to start it when cold. I've known people that this has worked for, and that it hasn't worked for; which is the last thing you want in the middle of no where.

All I know is when I try and start my motor vehicle I want it to start every time no if's, and's, or but's.. Not to mention the weight savings on a truck are minimal compared to the total vehicle weight, but even then I'd take reliable starts over iffy starting.

 

your truck should have a 3000W starter. so at minimum you need (3000/12=cca) 250A to start your truck ONCE. take that into account and multiple charges and discharges... temperature (responding to someones comment about temp -some li batts actually have heaters!) and i wouldnt put anything that wasnt 60% more than what i needed for a single start in optimal weather ~70F i believe.

Id say that leaves you with a minimum CCA of 400-450.

i didnt even open the links, but if its a DD, why even bother? your truck was designed with a lead acid or SLAB, why deviate?

 

I would never put a Lithium-Ion battery in a vehicle, they are not all that stable and there have been a large amount of fire/explosions in vehicles, aircraft and boats as a result of them failing. Not recommended. I uses them in alot of my R/C aircraft as well as for work and have had numerous times where I had a fire, explosion.


http://www.digitaltrends.com/cars/n...m-ion-battery-safety-forum-next-month-in-d-c/

 

Wow to all the responses here. Especially the last one. I guess my biggest thing is shaving some weight off of the stocker. I have looked into Braille, which then led me to look into the Deka ETX series because apparently Brailles are rebranded Deka's. I do some very high speed wheeling on rough terrain and shaving some weight off the battery would be a good thing mainly because I have heard of people bending the stock battery metal tray during high speed wheeling. I don't want the same to happen to me so I'm just looking into alternatives. I figured I'd get some opinions on Li-ion.

 

If youre long travel and punching the skinny petal thru the floorboard then yes you need a lighter or move your battery to the bed, I have an LT setup but mostly crawl with an occasion of fast wash runs in the des and havent had any issues yet with a stock sized battery. And my truck is very heavy with all the armor.

 

In a short answer, YES, their CCA is a big factor. CCA is what starts the engine. Alternator output and reserve capacity of the battery is what matters for winching and stereos.

 

Being an MT I do a lot of wash runs and probably get the truck airborne more times then I realize. I would really prefer to keep the battery in the stock location due to security issues with random passer byers out on the streets. Any suggestions on a good strong lightweight battery out? I thought Braille would be good but obviously they are highly over rated CCA wise and from the track record I noticed these type of batteries were only lasting a good year on other forums (corvette is where I found the longevity issue at).

I know cranking amperage is a factor, I just didn't think our starters needed close to the 1000 rating just to get it fired up.

 

this is primarily due to improper storage or continuous high current discharge. thermal runaway is a danger in any battery but in li ion the results are a bit more spectacular. i wouldnt be so concerned with the danger of fire or explosion with proper use as i would be with deep cycle capacity. li ion are more purposed towards repeated complete discharge without damage or battery "memory".

you use plenty of devices containing lithium batteries daily

op, if high speed wheeling is your thing, relocating your battery may be your best option. there are a few people on here ive seen with nice set ups. a sealed battery in the cab or a vented battery in a mount somewhere would be a smarter idea than attempting a li swap.

 

they dont. your factiry battery is not a deep cycle marine battery. its probably closer to 550 CCA. like i said your starter is a 3000W starter and the instant current draw in perfect conditions is about 250A

 

side note:

that article is more than a year old. the results of the nthsb is more what youd be interested in. at one point, people were so scared of lithium batteries they were not allowed in the mail or on airplanes. this is no longer the case as their good name has been cleared for the most part. the dangers of thermal runaway as i said before are equally as present in any battery. read up more on them and the findings of the nthsb.

the only thing i would be concerned about is the battery life. theyre really not cheap and not exactly designed for the demands of starting a vehicle. but for those with the money and the weight demands.... by all means! find one within your ampere rating and go to town. just dont be surprised when it dies quickly

 

Yeah true. I hear they go without warning leaving you essentially stranded. Which negates any pros in weight savings they have.

 

you could parallel two of them together, and still have some weight savings, but very expensive then.

 

True. There is the parallel option. Even if I was to use the Ballistics. Or take two Deka ETX20 OR 30L's and run them parallel too.

 

Bear in mind that those Ballistic batteries are not full Li-ion batteries too. They are Lithium Iron Phosphates.

 

Personal products use a magnesium based Ion battery which is indeed safer, however the majority of large discharge ion batteries are still cobalt based and not as stable. Granted in recent years manufacturing process techniques along with new chemistry are improving the reliability and safety. I still would not use one in my vehicle.

 

We just got these in at work the other day for Motorcycles/ATV


They are crazy light! A battery that would normally weigh 25-30lbs probably isn't even touching 5lbs. And they have a built in little test button that tells you how charged it is.

Crazy technology, but the price tag for even the smallest (4LB-S) battery is $100 and they go up to $300.