Long Time Site Stalker, Newer Member

Greetings from Annapolis, MD. Its been more than 10 years since I found this site. I have what I call my "bucket list build", which is my 2010 Toyota Tacoma. I have done just about everything that can be done to it, and I confess with no shame that not one idea is/was my own. They ALL came from this site. So rather than plunging into what makes my Taco special, I want to thank all of those members that share their passion for the 3 generations of Tacomas.

When negotiating the purchase with Toyota I knew in advance there were things that I wanted to do that in my view were best done by the dealer to assure both warranty and overall accountability. This was particularly important because I knew from day one I was going to supercharge my machine. I was speaking to 3 dealerships, but the local Annapolis dealer won the business because I spent an abundance of time reminding them that I had bought two Tundras from them and that they really needed to demonstrate why I should buy my third Toyota in 10 years from them. I will cut right to the chase and tell you line by line what I had them do, and then in another post what I had them outsource.

Toyota TRD aftermarket upgrades: Installed by Koons of Annapolis

TRD Super Charger: Dealer installed TRD supercharger, Tuned by Gadget. (I did the AFE Cold Air Intake Later)
TRD Cat-back Exhaust
TRD tow package
TRD short throw shifter
TRD short throw shifter knob





These are the items and installs I had the dealership outsource, all which were completed prior to delivery. This first phase, i.e. that which was being completed prior to me ever driving my rig, took almost 2 months from the time I signed the deal. That two months felt like 10 months.

Electric/mechanical power rear window
Sun roof, 2 stage mechanical
Two tone, black and grey Katzkin leather front and rear seats.
Front and rear seat heaters
Pioneer touchscreen multi-media
Dual video monitors in the front head rests facing the rear













Within Tacoma World I found multiple threads that pointed me to posts by a fellow posting with the handle “Gadget”. I fast came to view Gadget as the “Yoda” on about everything that can be done to a “Yota”. Gadget owns and operates URD (Underdog Racing Development). Suffice it to say, when considering the science and technology of what can be brought to bear on these machines I found Gadget to be an invaluable resource. I knew from reading some of Gadget's posts (as well as write-ups on the URD site about WHY a particular product will enhance performance) that when I picked up my Tacoma from the dealer that my newly installed forced air induction system was only half baked bread. Gleaning what I could from members on the site, there were a few things I set out to do. I contacted Gadget to discuss the steps I would take prior to performance tuning. My first upgrade following delivery of the vehicle to me was a set of Thorley Headers. As the URD site communicates:

• Awesome Power Gains
• Inside and Outside Ceramic Coating
• Completely Bolt In – No Cutting or Welding
• A Higher Performance Sound (A More Present & Deeper Tone)

The 1GR-FE 4.0L V6 engine has front catalytic converters built into the exhaust manifold assembly. This performance header system replaces that entire assembly including the catalytic converter. This allows for free flowing, long primary tubes that enhance performance.

I purchased and installed THY-515-LS-C Thorley Header, Tacoma 05+ V6, FJ 07-09 – LONG TUBE. The Headers integrated with the TRD Catback perfectly. And, as promised, better breathing, better sound. Nice and throaty.



I also added the URD reccomended crush gaskets as well as the the down stream O2 sensor connector.

AT the same time I did the Thorley Headers I also installed URD Stealth Supercharger Pulley and a Stage 2 AFE Cold Air Intake. The “STEALTH” pulley looks exactly like the stock pulley that comes on the supercharger and it does work with the standard size supercharger belt. The aftermarket pulley is 2.85″ as compared to the stock pulley, which is 3.00″. It even has 3.00 engraved on it. The typical increase in boost is 1.5-2 PSI over the stock pulley with power gains of 15-30 HP.


The aFe Stage 2 Si (Sealed Intake) intake system replaces the stock intake system for max increase in both performance and appearance. I like the Si version because it reduces the amount of hot air from under the hood for increased performance. It is made from a rotational molded cross-linked polypropylene to eliminate heat conduction. Things were stating to come together after these two items. Breathing in cooler air (The Afe), forcing additional air with the smaller supercharger pulley, and moving the combustion through more freely with the Thorleys.


First, awesome on the Pedals 2 Pints. So I was actually on TW as a member about 10 years ago and active for about 5 years. It was during pre-purchase period of my truck while researching Tacoma's and all the while during the build, which took about 30 months based on availability of funds. That computer I had crashed and with it went all the auto passwords. I came back from time time to time as visitor until this time last year when I re-signed up as Taco Diablo. As I mentioned at the beginning of this thread, I learned an incredible amount about Tacomas and what I wanted from my build from members on this TW site. I followed many many other's build threads for ideas. That is what I am doing here. If this helps someone out down the road as they are doing their build, that is what this site has been all about for me. Oh, and yes, when I reference the 70K in my add on Bal CL, I am including the price of a New Tacoma in that number. Sorry to those that don't like the price of the truck rolled in, but that number in aggregate is actually quite real. Will post on MAF and stage 3 clutch tomorrow.


The MAF Sensor Calibrator

I learned from several member build threads as wells as posts from Gadget that most of the improvements/mods I was making were really not integrated and working together to optimize performance until a MAF Sensor Calibrator was installed and the ECU re-tuned. This is where access to Gadget was extremely important and helpful. Bolting things on or welding here and there I can handle. But bench building a wire harness, connecting it to the MAF Calibrator, hooking it to a lap top and tuning the ECU was/is way out of my league. When I think back on it now I realize how lucky I was with all of this. In speaking to Gadget I learned he also lives in Maryland, about 20 miles to the south of me. Additionally, he was probably more available for 1-on-1 support that year then he ever was previously and ever will be again. This was because the 2008 Financial Crisis killed discretionary spending on things like aftermarket builds. Nobody was buying anything and both our business's were trying to make it through the recession. Anyway, about the MAF calibrator. As the URD site explains best, The MAF Sensor Calibrator intercepts the signal from the Mass Airflow Sensor and remaps it, optimizing the fuel mixture for the best power and performance. It is the ability to re tune that optimizes the modifications allowing them to work together as they should. I met Gadget on a rainy afternoon and her wired in the MAF behind the glove box over the course of about an hour. Then we hit the road (Rt4 in PG County down my the fairgrounds). I was driving and he sat shotgun and he had me red-line it through the gears until we got the optimal AF Ratio. Within an 1.5 hours I had a completely different vehicle. The whine of the supercharger above 3500 RPMs was like music. Still is.


It was look more than anything, to me they appeared not as boxy as some of the stuff that was available back then. I was also enamored with their fab process. They 3-D CAD designed them from the inside out in individual pieces that are are precision plasma cut and then welded. As a not so great Mig and Tig welder, I was also obsessed with the bead these guys could lay down. Just really clean stuff. I had it shipped to me unfinished, which was a mistake. They could have powder coated them black for me but I wanted to try to color match the powder coat up here to my rig. The Powder Coat places with ovens big enough to handle them in DC and Baltimore couldn't match the gun metal color of my Taco, I spent an extra grand coating them the same way Road Armor could have done it for me. Lesson learned: Check with powder coaster before ordering fancy bumper.

Stage 3 Clutch

As I described previously, I ordered my 2010 Tacoma with a manual transmission. When I was a kid my first car was a 79 Ford Pinto with a 4 Speed Manual Transmission. Pintos were cheep because they had this nasty little tendency of blowing up if they were rear ended. Auto Activist Ralph Nader shouted from the mountain top, and six months later it was raining Pintos for 200-300 bucks where I grew up out side of Philly. Anyway, for me there is something very fun about driving a manual, and even today I insist that every kid in our neighborhood learns how to on the my 5 speed manual side-by-sides. Anyway, I knew from the beginning that if I really got after it with the Super Charger on board the stock clutch would only last so long. I asked folks for advice and most said wait until I cooked the original, then upgrade. So that is what I did. Even though this mod came several years later, I am writing about it now because I have been focusing on the performance stuff thus far.

Historically most clutches use spring connected hub assemblies that were borrowed from the smaller sport compact market. These have proven to not be up to the task of the heavier trucks with the 1GR-FE 4.0L V6 engine, especially when you began to power them up with some of the stuff I was adding on. The URD Stage 3 clutch provides the most durable pressure plate available for this application with dramatically improved clamping pressure for better torque capacity, more plate lift (increase of 20%) for better high speed shifting, more durable gravity springs for more consistent lift and the highest cycle life possible (increase of 30%). The combination of friction material, hub assembly, and high clamp load pressure plate is where the performance is enhanced.



Uhhhh, Holy Handgrenade, mind if I ask you a question? Are you saying people can Troll a B/S/T post like in this? Good God Man, how does anything get sold, LOL!!!!

Let me be clear. It out of complete respect for the site, which has given me so much more than I have given it… that I am legitimately detailing my build with the objective of meeting the requisite 50 posts so that I may post Taco Diablo for sale. I am following the rules, I was instructed to proceed directly to the New Member section of the the site, and here I am. I had hoped that some of those just starting their journey would engage; I have no qualms with sharing the good, the bad and the ugly of my build. I learned a ton, particularly that it is truly about the journey as much as it is about the destination. My build pulled me in and possessed me, and I loved every minute of it for those three years. So keep on Trollin because I am enjoying the recounting of my journey, all trolling aside.

Icon Stage 3 Suspension Kit

Many of the build threads I read back in 09 and 10 were eye opening in terms of the variability and overall intensity of what could be done with the suspension of a Tacoma. Not knowing much about the range of possibilities, my initial searches were driven by imagining myself in certain on and off road environments, and then I would scour threads looking for descriptions of suspensions that performed well in what was in my mind and what imagined I wanted to do. I fast fell for the Long Travel beasts people were building out west for Baja and sand running. I could see exactly what my long travel build would look like in my mind's eye and I started planning for the acquisition of the components I would need. I was literally 2 months into the planning when it dawned on my that I live in Annapolis, MD. No sand, no dunes, none of the post apocalyptic Mad Max Thunderdome scenery me and my rig were ripping through in my mind. Scratch long travel, reboot. I found a bunch of members that described their build in mid-Atlantic and southeast. ICON Vehicle Dynamics kept popping up and that was what I went after based on the increase in wheel travel and damping ability, which translates into outstanding vehicle control and ride quality both on and off-road. Their Stage 3 system includes vehicle-specific tuned 2.5” Extended Travel coil-over shocks. As per the ICON Site:

KEY FEATURES:

• Increased wheel travel and ride quality over stock
• Vehicle specific tuned front and rear shocks for superior shock damping and control
• Adjustable coilovers provide 0-3.5" of front lift height
• Extended Travel coilovers matched with ICON UCA provides increased front droop travel
• 6061 aircraft grade aluminum CNC machined components
• Corrosion resistant CAD plated coilover shock body with 7/8" shaft
• FK Rod End bearings for extended longevity and minimal deflection
• 2.0 Aluminum Series remote reservoir rear shock with 5/8" shaft
• Bolt-on system means no cutting or welding necessary for install

WHEEL & TIRE FITMENT INFO:

OEM Wheels & Tires: Yes

Aftermarket Wheels: 8.5" Wide, 4.75" Backspace

Aftermarket Tires: 33 x 11.50

(Larger Tires May Fit but Fender Trimming and Modifications will be Required)



One of the recalls on my vintage of Tacoma is for undercoating. and undercoat it they did with whatever the magic sludge is that is supposed to keep the frame from going swiss cheese. As you will see from the shot of the rear, they were sloppy on my canisters! Those Bahstahds! I gotta clean it up and Goof Off will do the trick.



Icon Stage 3 UCAs- What you should know, perhaps they addressed, it I don't know?

So I love the ride I get with my suspension kit, and in my opinion it is superior to the stock factory ride (OMG, please Toyota OEM Gods... don't Troll me). I never really got to test the additional travel afforded by this upgrade because this rig has has only truly been off road once, and that was to rescue a Jeep. The hero that day was not the additional travel, rather it was the Winch. But the purpose of this post is let you know that the uni-ball bearing in the upper control arms wear out fast, or at least mine did. Within the first 20,000 miles, which was essentially around town and highway mileage, a terrible squeaking developed on all turns of the wheel. White Lithium shot up from underneath would quiet things down until the next rain. There is no seal on the bottom of the UCA ball joint and it is exposed to all elements. After about a can of whit lithium I called them and ordered a new set for about $150.00. I was able to press them in at my shop and have not had an issue since then, which at 78,000 miles is why I think they tweaked them in some way because they have been fine.

At the same time I did the lift I ordered new wheels and tires. The stock wheels on my 2010 were 16" with 245/15/R16 tires. I wanted to go bigger with ICON suspension on board. I had thought from the beginning that I was going to go and 18" wheel with BF Goodrich ATs. I love the look of BFGs and a lot of great builds I admired on everything from Tacos to Jeeps incorporated the ATs. We have an outfit in the DELMARVA region called Trick Trucks and I went there to research. Like all of these kinds of stores, they have a catalog upon catalog with endless selections of wheels...literally thousands. It is a small shop so they had about 10 examples of different wheel and tire combos hung up on the wall. One of them stood right out and although I spent several hours looking at over a thousand different wheels, I kept looking back on the wall at the ATX 181 Artillery with the Nitto Terra Grappler.






Something to note about the ATX Wheels. You will notice that they have a center cap with and "X" on it. Well, the design of the method by which it snaps in is not that great. The caps are prone to pooping off and those buggers are 30 bucks on ebay to replace. And there is a whole aftermarket of XD replacement caps, so I am not surprised they have never tried to improve the fastening system to the center cylinder. I lost all four pretty quickly.




The Body Mount Mod

So with my Icon Stage 3 Suspension now lifting my Taco, and my ATXs Artillery Wheel and 32" Nittos looking like a match made in heaven, I take it out for my first ride. It was a rather short one. I could hardly turn the steering wheel or encounter any uneven surface that might cause articulation without major tire rubbing on the cab mount and inside of the wheel fender. It was pretty bad, and somehow I had missed this detail in my research prior to making the upgrades. I got on TW and sure enough there were multiple threads that documented the the issue as well as the fix. Like a charm.

Note: take several passes trimming the interior of the plastic fender, a little at a time. Like they say, you can always take more off, you can't put it back on though.

 

Welcome to TW!!

 

Welcome to TW!

 

very nice

 

I’d love to know why you refer to my grills as an “inferior” product in your Craigslist ad?

 

Do you offer antlers Craig?

No? I didn’t THINK so.

 

Those are inferior antlers

 

Did you just recently join TW just to sell your truck (the one you’re selling on CL) with the grill that is superior to @HomerTaco ’s?

 

https://baltimore.craigslist.org/cto/d/toyota-tacoma-diablo-edition/6603481969.html

 

something smells funny in here.....

 

That’s @Subway4X4

 

Dude, inferior steps....

 

Not really. Since this was a 75 mile bike ride called Pedal2Pints that I did today. And the measly steps on my watch were the steps I took to get from each bike stop to walk to the 7 breweries along the way. Lol.