Long Travel BS Thread

Edit: @Caboose117 you are going to want to keep the rear end narrower than the front by at least about an inch to let the truck track where you want it to when going fast off road. Whether that helps your shock rubbing is another issue to your track width question.

 

Well not to make you do more work, but it looks like you are sacrificing both upteavek and shock clearance. Whomever did your install did not remove the old stock shock mounts, nor did they remove the stock bump strike pads. I know I modified my strike pads for the hydro bumps, but your fabricator lost you like 2" of uptravel.

Your shocks should be positioned a few inches further inward and lower with strike pads an inch or so lower than yours.

 

Agreed, That's how mines set up my frame is notched so my shocks are mounted inward more.

 

The stock strike pad is where my bumps are hitting, I did notice the stock shock mounts were still there but is it really affecting anything?

Pardon me, I'm a bit slow

 

Your set up does not look like it would have anymore up travel than his.

 

No it doesn’t matter. You can position the shock tabs wherever you want, so long as it cycled clean and for max bump and droop travel

 

Me too


Also I believe the regular solo lift spindles are for regular kits. I don’t think the 4x4 xlt kit uses the same spindle. I could be wrong but I’m pretty sure.

@nelson18matt had a camburg kit with solo spindles iirc

 

At this current juncture my up travel is limited by hitting the truck itself lol

As for droop I am def limited by my shackles but I have the new hangers and shackles from @archivegarage on order

 

What sua kit did you end up going with? Or are you piecing together bits and pieces from several companies?

 

Whether my uptravel is more or less than yours, your shocks are at least an inch mounted further outboard than mine plus the fact they are mounted on top of the axle. Mine are as low as they can go and inward as they can go before hitting the frame and hiring the leafs on the downward side of things

 

The SUA kit is all TC but if I remember the numbers correctly I'm only getting around 11-12" of travel

 

What I meant is my up travel stops at the point right before the rear end would smack the frame. And my droop is limited by the hangers/shackles
Even without shocks attached it will currently only droop so far

But I do get what you mean about how far in or out the shocks are mounted.
I think he was just trying to avoid notching my frame on "my new truck"
One of those situations where someone is willing to do the work and take your money but hates to see a truck with 15k on the odo completely chopped up haha.

 

Sorry to keep asking questions, but I want to get as much info before telling hopefully not telling you to start over, but what length shocks are you running? If they are less than 16" then you need to sell them for some 16's and relocate your lower shock mounts. Otherwise I would still advise relocating your lower shock mounts to allow for more clearance and better utilize the full travel of the shocks.

 

3 pieces that were designed to work together from scratch rather than remaking the weird Toyota design with 4 new parts is what I was talking about. All the other stuff is debatable

 

They have stock spec 4x4 replacement spindles too. Truck's looking awesome.

 

Plus looks like your bumps are striking about an inch sooner than the stock strike pads with this addition to them.

 

Cans could be welded higher to compensate

 

Have you guys considered this at all? What do you think?
http://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/511528/

 

Just want to clarify in that picture the bumps aren't touching anything yet
Just the angle of the picture.

The shocks are 2.5x16

It's all good info man! I do appreciate it
Not to worried about relocating the tabs since I'm going with a full fabbed Currie rear end here shortly, but is def good info for when I get that one set up.
Can I get a few pics of how your lower tabs are located and your bump strike plate?