Long Travel BS Thread

We are still planning to formalize the high clearance equal length. At least that way you can run dual resonators on the Y. Still loud with headers though.

 

Loud and sounding like dog shit are very far apart in my eyes. I hate taking it past 3k rpm at this point because of the ball slapping sounding rasp. Thinking about putting stock manis back on but I enjoy the actually noticeable power with the headers. Going to try scooters advice and try a vibrant resonator after the Y

 

This is my set up from the Roost Y to the dump... Ran a couple of mini resonators between the two large resonators it really helps out...

 

I would put a large resonator pre muffler and a bottle style post muffler if you have the space. It will help you a fair bit.

 

I have Zero rasp with set up above... Oval front resonator for clearance to two minis and a round rear resonator that was offset on the inlet side and center at the dump works great and sounds smooth...
Link to minis
https://www.totalflowusa.com/mini-race-universal-mufflers

 

I haven't touched my exhaust and it's fine.

 

The v6 needs to just be as quiet as possible because it's never gunna sound great. Even 4 cylinders sound better. 6 just sounds bad for some reason.

 

Can’t hear the exhaust or motor over all the other race car noises.

But also agreed. High clearance y pipe for purpose. Otherwise stock headers and trd muffler here. The V6 just doesn’t sound good.

Supercharger whine and bypass clicks through the cage are all you need to warrant intercoms.

 

Dude yah your blower is LOUD AF. It’s dope.

imma just straight pipe the truck and continue rocking the intercom. Such a quality of life improvement. I hate the rugged headsets though. I need to figure out how to get my peltor comtacs to work with it.

 

Big blower hates this hack.

 

Resonators and sound deadening the rear of the cab really helped in my access cab. I’ve sort of settled into the new normal sound level which is still noisy but my passenger says she can hear me now lol.

 

Cinders takeover prep. I’d say shes had a rough life.


https://www.instagram.com/p/DN_drI6ki1T/?igsh=ZmN0bnVraWM2N2ph


9/26-28 for anyone that’s going. Going to try for the same spot as last year and I’ll be there the evening of the 25th to grab a spot.

 

Spindle finally going on?

 

Yep. Doing all the front end stuff. And if I have time to prep the rear I will, but that got a real solid prep and new springs last Labor Day. Really don’t have many miles since then

 

I’ve been doing shake down runs with my truck next to my house trying to figure out what’s good and what’s not. But I think my truck is ready for this month

 

Picked up a new rear axle today for $800.

Toyota 8.4
Trussed
Full float
Disc brake swap
Chromoly axle shafts

I’m going to throw my new 5.29 3rd member into this axle

just have no idea how to incorporate my rear wheel speed sensors

 

I think @Airdog managed to use the front wheel speed sensors and tricked the ECU into thinking it was the rears. He did a write-up on it when swapping in his JD 9" rear axle.

 

I’ll try and dig through to find some info on that. Thank you

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/jdfabrication-full-float-ford-9-inch-axle-install.771924/

 

I only wanted a speed sensor so my speedo would work. Since the signal for the speedo comes from the rear sensors I found a way to trick fuck the system and its all in the thread posted above. If you want to keep ABS you are shit out of luck going with a full floater unless you really think out of the box.....though ABS is a worthless sytem offroad anyways...and onroad IMO.

I actually completely redid my brake system this weekend. Added a Corvette style master cylinder to my tundra booster got rid of all the toyota brake lines that ran to the ABS module(where I had a bunch of tees installed after removing the ABS module) really cleaned up the engine bay. I literally have 3 brake lines now...left and right fronts and 1 line to the rear. Braking feel and pedal feel is phenominal.