Long Travel information.

This is supposed to be a regular lt kit

 

Maybe it was custom ordered to not have powdercoat. What had the seller said about it?

 

Just says new in the box

Edit, I just asked about the powder coating

 

What did he say about it being nekkid?

 

He said he bought them from someone like that and isnt sure why the person had them bare. Makes me worry and think I'll just stick to my old long travel set up

 

Dumb question but just curious: why do all of these kits require fiberglass fenders? Would it be terrible to run LT with stock fenders?

 

Long travel places the fender right in the path of the wheel that is pushed out and with additional travel. It will make contact and so you'll need to trim them a good amount.

Also with the tires sticking way past the fenders, everything and anything you run through on the trails will go everywhere.

Also aesthetics, especially if you go 3.5 with stock fenders it's going to look weird. +2 looks okayish but for the price of +2 it's always better to just go +3.5

That's all I know

 

im still running stock fenders with my all pro kit. had to trim around 3" give or take. even then sometimes it still rubs

 

Why cant anyone build a decent linked kit for the rear on a 16+? Everyone I see running it is custom; given there are a couple plug and play bed cages, but what about the rest of it? I'm sure there is a market given performance and ride improvements with it for less than the cost of doing the front. The 1st post in this thread is woefully out of date and som of the links arent even working anymore.

On my build we are find some rear guidance, but much of it is custom. Work missing details are: trailing arms, break length requirements, gas tank mods (including if they will throw a code or even fit in the spare tire area), pan hard details, etc.

There is a ton of room back there once the tank is moved, but a simple all around kit would be great. Even better would be a cantilever kit to save 100% of the bed, but for me it is a bridge to far to go the cantilever route given the experience required to get the geometry right.

 

I think its basically because the install of even a kit requires so much custom work, that by the time you understand enough about the kit and have enough tools to install it, you might as well designed your own. Also most of the installs for this type of go fast truck is destined for California, where playing with the gas tank provides specific challenges.

And there are kits out there for you. Here's the rear long travel cantilever kit for the 3rd gen you inquired about: https://www.simmonsind.com/

 

Website under construction still; is it still brand new? I’ll give them a call. Where I am the emissions is not an issue and I’m actually building my mountain wagon, not desert runner. Wife just wants smooth and I’m tired of her excuses for not traveling the mountains with me.

 

I don't know much about it, so I couldn't tell you. I know they have a bookface page with some videos. I'd try letting some air of the tires and see if it appeases the wife! Everything feels softer with less than 20psi.

 

Lol. I dropped them to 4lb for her one day and then she was worried about how they looked. She’s a little bit city and then didn’t like waiting for me to air them back up. Running 25lbs.
I found their FB page and was looking at them. Looks like they have done both SUA and SOA on Tacoma’s. Looks like it may be an option. Saves the tank move also.

 

I'd be careful with going to a sua or link setup without seeing it work on multiple trucks similar to yours or built from a shop with a highly reputable product history. Here's another SUA for Tacomas which is bolt on.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BjgOLbjli1g/?igshid=jmta3i24cd2d

The thing with a fully bolt on link kit is there is nothing you can build that will be bolt on. Welding link mounts and axle dressing is necessary. Therefore you will need measuring and welding capabilities that basically make the rest of the process doable if you're diy. Most linked trucks go with a cage for required protection when you're able to hit highway speeds off road. Eventually the builds just get to the point where a daily driven (DD) link it isn't really profitable for any shop yet.

Key issue here:

No one should replace any suspension kit prior to tuning the shocks - it's like not tuning after any engine mods - you're not going have the best performance from what you have.

 

Simple because 3 link with a panhard bar will never work that great and the effort required is way more than a SUA for the same amount of travel. Also you can get almost 20” of travel and keep the shocks under the bed

 

camburg or dirt king is there any reason to pay a little bit more for the camburg?

 

There’s some good info here->
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/camburg-vs-dirt-king-3-5-long-travel-detailed-review.719824/