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Looking for a specific connector

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by BenSkiv, Dec 16, 2018.

  1. Dec 16, 2018 at 11:19 AM
    #21
    DaveInDenver

    DaveInDenver Not Actually in Denver

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    BTW, since these are sealed connectors, you'd need to add cavity seals for the wires.

    For the TS 025 (0.64) types (the smaller 82998-24250).

    For insulation dia. 0.85-0.95 mm (.033-.037 in), p/n: 7165-1423, Light Brown
    For insulation dia. 0.95-1.05 mm (.037-.041 in), p/n: 7165-1043, Green
    For insulation dia. 1.1-1.4 mm (.043-.055 in), p/n: 7165-1312, Violet
    For insulation dia. 1.4-1.5 mm (.055-.059 in), p/n: 7165-1198, Dark Yellow
    For insulation dia. 1.6-1.7 mm (.063-.067 in), p/n: 7165-1199, Red Violet

    https://www.corsa-technic.com/item.php?item_id=943
     
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  2. Dec 16, 2018 at 11:20 AM
    #22
    DaveInDenver

    DaveInDenver Not Actually in Denver

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    For the TS 090 (2.3II) types (the larger 82998-12440).

    For insulation dia. 1.1-1.4 mm (.043-.055 in), Sumitomo p/n: 7165-0842, Blue
    For insulation dia. 1.4-2.0 mm (.055-.079 in), Sumitomo p/n: 7165-0349, Brown
    For insulation dia. 2.0-2.5 mm (.079-.098 in), Sumitomo p/n: 7165-0395, Dark green
    For insulation dia. 2.5-2.9 mm (.098-.114 in), Sumitomo p/n: 7165-0351, Gray

    https://www.corsa-technic.com/item.php?item_id=668
     
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  3. Dec 16, 2018 at 11:30 AM
    #23
    BenSkiv

    BenSkiv [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Okay, I will keep that in mind
     
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  4. Dec 16, 2018 at 11:33 AM
    #24
    DaveInDenver

    DaveInDenver Not Actually in Denver

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    The Toyota pigtails will have the seals crimped on, if that's the way you go.

    Those replies where to make sure anyone searching realizes you need both a terminal and seal crimped on the wire before you insert it into a sealed connector.

    p3.jpg
     
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  5. Dec 16, 2018 at 11:35 AM
    #25
    BenSkiv

    BenSkiv [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Oh, okay, I’ll likely go with the Toyota ones since it seems easier. But in the off chance I don’t, that’s good to know!
     
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  6. Dec 16, 2018 at 11:46 AM
    #26
    BenSkiv

    BenSkiv [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Do you recommend any specific tool? Preferably one that could ship with prime and isn’t super expensive, I don’t have much money right now due to school... but I need this running as soon as possible as it’s my only vehicle...
     
  7. Dec 16, 2018 at 11:52 AM
    #27
    maxtherat

    maxtherat Well-Known Member

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    All the usual diesel truck mods- fuel system upgrade, programmer, CAI, intake manifold, j hooked waste gate
    I’ve had luck using a scribe to release wires from connectors but (like said earlier) if the plastic is old and brittle it can crack. One of those little screw drivers for tightening screws on glasses is probably small enough and can be purchased almost anywhere.
     
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  8. Dec 16, 2018 at 11:53 AM
    #28
    DaveInDenver

    DaveInDenver Not Actually in Denver

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  9. Dec 16, 2018 at 11:54 AM
    #29
    BenSkiv

    BenSkiv [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Okay, I’ll keep those in mind. Sucks that I can’t get it up and running before the snow tomorrow. Really wanted to try my new tires in snow, but can’t control everything. Hopefully it won’t be down too long. If anyone else has any ideas or input, feel free to include it, all the help is much appreciated!
     
  10. Dec 16, 2018 at 1:21 PM
    #30
    Jimmyh

    Jimmyh Well-Known Member

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    :thumbsup: to DaveInDenver!
     
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  11. Dec 16, 2018 at 1:46 PM
    #31
    maxtherat

    maxtherat Well-Known Member

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    All the usual diesel truck mods- fuel system upgrade, programmer, CAI, intake manifold, j hooked waste gate
    Guess you can try to release the broken connectors and if there’s enough wire on the broken end you can try soldering the 2 ends together- not as a permanent fix though. One of those pigtails mentioned previously sounds like your best bet. It you already have 2 broken wires then there may be more to come.
    Definitely a huge to @DaveInDenver for all the wealth of knowledge he’s shared. Going to keep his user name in mind just in case....
     
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  12. Dec 16, 2018 at 1:48 PM
    #32
    BenSkiv

    BenSkiv [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Yeah, I think I realized though that I broke the wires. The connector wouldn’t come off the original NSS and I presume in my yanking and trying to push down the clip with a screwdriver and even pliers, that a wire got snagged and pulled off. I think as long as I’m more careful, if I just replace those two I should be good. But we’ll see.
     
  13. Dec 16, 2018 at 7:30 PM
    #33
    caribe makaira

    caribe makaira Well-Known Member

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    upload_2018-12-16_23-29-58.jpg
    None of those terminals are 090(2.3II)...Apologies, only 2 are. They looked to be larger, like 4.8 (187) types. My bad.
     
    Last edited: Dec 17, 2018
  14. Dec 16, 2018 at 8:23 PM
    #34
    DaveInDenver

    DaveInDenver Not Actually in Denver

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    The manual calls 82998-12440 a 2.3II FS (female sleeve, e.g. sealed) and the mating terminal is a 2.3mm wide blade.

    What is the correct type?

    I'm always trying to understand the Sumitomo & Yazaki OEM catalogs and especially if there's a Molex, TE or Delphi equivalent for Toyota connectors and terminals. So I understood Toyota's 2.3II to mean it comes from the Sumitomo TS 090 or Yazaki 2.3II (090II) catalogs.

    Screen Shot 2018-12-16 at 9.12.28 PM.jpg

    Screen Shot 2018-12-16 at 9.16.47 PM.jpg
     
    Last edited: Dec 16, 2018
  15. Dec 24, 2018 at 4:24 PM
    #35
    BenSkiv

    BenSkiv [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Update, got a new connector with the wiring still attached, spliced all the wires together, and now the neutral light comes on the dash, but the park lift doesn’t and it still won’t start. Any ideas? I’m not bringing it to a dealer unless absolutely necessary. All the wires are properly spliced as well, I’m positive of that.
     
  16. Dec 25, 2018 at 5:04 AM
    #36
    DaveInDenver

    DaveInDenver Not Actually in Denver

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    Did it work fine before the connector issues? What happened that you had to work on the connector?

    Maybe you have bigger issues with an ECU or the switch?
     
  17. Dec 25, 2018 at 6:00 AM
    #37
    BenSkiv

    BenSkiv [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Before the connector, the park gear indicator came on but the neutral one didn’t, it would start if I got under the truck and moved a wire around a lot, but that wasn’t gonna fly. I’m 100% certain it’s not the ecu and it’s the wiring, but I’m not sure why, or what could be causing it to happen. I’m thinking it’s one of the splices, but I might be wrong. I would think if it were elsewhere it wouldn’t have worked at all before.
     
  18. Dec 25, 2018 at 6:21 AM
    #38
    maxtherat

    maxtherat Well-Known Member

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    Just curious but when you did all of the splicing did you have the battery disconnected? Not sure about Toyota Ecu but in general the are very sensitive to current spikes and possible it was damaged while making slices. Also disconnect the connector in question and make sure of 2 things: non of the pins go pushed out of the connector and make sure non of the male pins didn’t get misaligned and bend over when connecting - I had this happen to me on a motor home I had after the ecu was replaced. I hope you get this figured out quickly or someone else who’s a SME can chime in.
     
  19. Dec 25, 2018 at 6:35 AM
    #39
    BenSkiv

    BenSkiv [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Battery was disconnected, pins have all been checked, two of the terminals were added to the connector by me, and I’m thinking they may not be pushed in far enough, from what I’ve read and gathered, it’s the number 6 terminal causing the issues, that’s one of the terminals I added onto the connector, I don’t have anything to loose attempting to push it in farther, and I’m not gonna pay 2k for Toyota to replace the whole harness as that’s well out of my budget.
     
  20. Dec 25, 2018 at 7:20 AM
    #40
    maxtherat

    maxtherat Well-Known Member

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    Fingers crossed that it’s just a connection issue. Best of luck getting it up and running
     

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