loss of power when shifting into 2nd

i bought my regular cab 4x4 last month and havent really gotten on it until today, i went to pull out into traffic and some asshole changed lanes so a stood on it in 1st gear ran it up to about 5500 rpm and shifted into 2nd and it completely fell on its face almost like it pulled timing like it was spining the tires which clearly it was not. i tried it a couple more times to see if it would do it again and it id. so my question is: is there something in the factory tuning that causes a power loss when shifting into 2nd hard or is the gear split just too much for the 4 cylinder to keep up?

 

I did something like that one time when merging into fast traffic. As I shifted into 2nd it stuttered and I burnt the clutch doing that. I just had my truck for a few months and i was shocked at what just happened. That jump between 1st and 2nd is huge. I think the gear ratio is going from almost 4:1 to 2:1. When I gun it on mine, on the 1-2 shift, i have to slip the clutch some or else it gets herky jerky. It could very well be the gearing. The 2TR-FE is a truck engine first, unlike other compact 4 cylinder truck engines, and it's geared like one.

 

After owning my truck for a year I decided to run through the gears running it up almost to the limiter. I found the same thing. Took off screaming in first. Shifted to second and felt like I went straight to third. But then when I went through second and into third it keep up and pulled hard again.

 

i think its time for that rotrex supercharger. the 4 banger just doesnt make enough power for me. i really wish toyota would have made a regular cab 4.0

 

I think one of my next mods is the LCE long tube header. Dyno charts show huge gains down low in the power band

 

ive heard mixed reviews on the lce header. if i can find one cheap enough ill buy it but im not shelling out $450 for 5 hp

 

5 peak hp yes but between 1500-2500 which is where I drive you are talking 30-80 hp gain. I don't remember the exact numbers

 

30-80 hp? maybe 3-8

 

That graph is a joke. Notice how none of the hp and torque lines cross at 5,252 rpm. This is where hp and torque are equal on every engine, every Dyno, everyday.

Also notice how on the stock graph for example (red and green), the hp and torque are almost equal at 2,000rpm. Again, impossible. 40hp at 2,000rpm would mean 105lbft of torque. Hp=torque/5252xRPM.

Not saying the LCE does or doesn't work, just that the graph is not legit.

 

at the bottom of the graph on their website it clearly states that the graph may not be accurate or even reflect the vehicle tested

 

If you don't believe it then buy the URD kit, however I think that even if the numbers are not correct you will still see gains down low due to the nature of the header and the tubes being equal length.

 

My BS meter just pegged so hard that I've got to have it refurbished now.

Getting those numbers out of a 4 banger would be a water to wine category mod.

 

no doubt there would be a gain in power, just not 30-80. i might end up doing the supercharger and the header with a cat delete and go full race truck

 

Like I said I was just making those numbers up as I had not pulled up the chart yet but the gain is considerable was the point I was making.

 

Yours broke also?!
50% horsepower gain due to a header, who would have fucking guessed!

 

On certain cars you might see a 30 hp gain with a header and tune, such as with my miata, however I don't believe such is so here, also some do program a second gear limitation thing from the factory for whatever reason

 

my old 06 gto made 359/357 stock and 379/360 with long tube headers and catless mid pipes

 

Just read there dyno was with the header and intake. But most people on here will say CAI's are a myth.

 

Since you are buying the hype, go get your own dyno to establish a baseline. Buy/install the parts (header and CAI) and re dyno.

We'll be please to see your results.