Low Speed Vibration when Turning - Rear End

Hi Everyone!
I have a 2005 Tacoma TRD, 135k miles. For a while now there has been some "binding" shaking, almost grinding during a low speed turn. I've had some mechanics look at it and some mechanically inclined friends. No one is for sure on the source .. Suspecting bearings, brakes, differential. Brakes to spec, u-joints checkout OK .. been referred to a "Jaws bearings and Axle" company that was closed this weekend. My wife is now AFRAID to drive it and I use a commute car since I drive a bit for work ..

Anyone suggest next steps? I know this post is void of details .. The last mechanic who was referred for alignment adjustment purposes (inspected u-joints) stated that he had another hold the opposite wheel firm while he turned the other while on a lift and "something didn't feel right" .. This sounds like a differential problem?

What about getting a rear axle from a dismantler or pick-n-pull .. Good or bad idea? Weight? Special tools required like an engine lift? While having a formal engineering background, I'm no mechanic, so perhaps getting in over my head.. Can't afford to start something I can't finish and have our 2nd vehicle down .. Hence why its been ongoing for over a year .. It is getting incrementally worse.

Any ideas or thoughts are much appreciated - Cheers!

 

TRD Sport or TRD Off Road.....Sport has limited slip diff and OR has a locker. Different animals. But the diff is where I'd start looking based on what you describe.

 

Bluegrass,

Thanks for the clarifying question - it is a TRD SPORT .. I'll continue to explore the differential. With the limited slip Diff .. is there a mechanical adjustment device that can get hit out of spec, or is it more a matter of gear (teeth) wear out. Is 130k miles LOW for a LS diff problem as it likely started less than 100k miles OR is this to be expected ..

How should I approach a gear specialist - while the put it on a lift , break open the transfer case and do a visual inspection for noticeable wear out or are there other tests to root cause the differential as the problem?

Thanks Bluegrass!

 

A few days ago, I sorta lit up a couple people for trying to make definitive diagnosis of problems via brief descriptions over the 'net, so I'm going to qualify this by saying THIS IS JUST MY OPINION ON LIMITED SLIP DIFFERENTIALS, AND THAT MAY OR MAY NOT BE YOUR PROBLEM......But.....135,000 miles on a limited slip differential CAN conceivably wear one out, especially if it has never been serviced (oil changed) . I've never had a Tacoma LSD apart....but I HAVE been into several posi-trac rear ends on cars back in the day....They are essentially a spring loaded slip clutch of sorts. Once the plates are worn, no adjustment will cure them. If this is in fact the problem, you're looking at the need to have the limited slip carrier rebuilt. Or get used to the noise.....

 

Just my opinion, but if it only makes noise when you turn, it could be that the diff oil is old and worn out or it was changed and the LSD additive was not put in.
Start simple, change the diff oil and make sure to put in the additive, then find an area where you can do a couple of figure eights to get the additive into the clutch pack.
Then see if it still makes the noise.

 

This. Definitely this as a first step.

 

Thanks everyone for your comments. My research also indicated the additive in the oil was important .. Opportunistically, I found an axle and bearing place that is inspecting the gears this AM. So any mechanical wear out should be ruled out. Subsequently, I would hope they would also replace the diff oil with the additive included. Fingers crossed I have a quick economical solution by end of day today.
I'll keep you-all posted on the progress.

Thanks again for taking the time on this one.

 

Thanks for the update.

Fingers crossed for good outcome.

 

So got the results:
1. Bad Pinion.
2. Bad Right Bearing.
3. Worn Left Bearing.

Proposed Servicing options:
1+2 = $1,374.24
1+2+3 = $2,010.

I was sure hoping NO mechanical failures and perhaps some additive would fix.
If I got a Rear End from a dismantler that would take care of the right and left bearings .. Is this a good idea or HIGH risk?? What about the Pinion - is this PART of the rear-end assembly or drive shaft?

Now evaluating dismantler inventory: costs, weight, (feasibility?) - will give the guy an answer 1st thing in the AM .. Thoughts guys??

Much appreciated you-all taking the time, yet again ..

 

WOW!!! That's crazy prices if you ask me.
Which bearings are they talking about? Carrier or axle?
How could replacing one more bearing cost $600 when the diff is already apart?

I would call ECGS and find out how much they want for a rebuilt 3rd, which should be allot cheaper.

Sorry to say, but it sounds like someone is trying to make bank off you.
If the truck is still drivable, (which you said it was), I would step back and reevaluate what my options were.

 

Yea Sparky, I'm getting that sinking feeling .. He mentioned like $400 in parts, $200 in labor.. Yet online there is nothing even remotely close to this cost, either Carrier or axle. I'm suspecting its axle bearings since left and right .. I found a 4.10 ratio 100k rear end from Texas for about $950 .. But there is the risk of wear / warranty, delivery delays and then the install. I'm better at computers and project management than I am at vehicle mechanics.. What we have to do to keep the wifey feeling secure .. Looks like the 3rds are around $600 at ECGS. Well, see what the morning brings on this one.

Thanks again Sparky!

 

Hey George, you're saying $400 for one bearing and ??? (how many parts can there be involved with one bearing) and two hours additional labor to install these parts when the axle is already disassembled, I call B.S.

Could be carrier or axle bearings as they both have rights & lefts, but I don't think it would be axle as they don't go bad very often, (mine have 125k and I run 285's with no probs "yet").

You said 05 TRD sport V6 4x4, your axle ratio is 3.73 IIRC, 4.10 is for a 4cyl i believe, so you don't want that, ( has to be the same ratio front to rear for 4x4).
A junkyard find could be a good thing if the price and mileage are rite,( 100k is too high)

$600 from ECGS is not that bad for a rebuilt 3rd with the right ratio, you order and install, then send you're old 3rd back for the core charge.

You mentioned bad pinion, which is the part that the drvshft bolts to at the rearend.
To check if it's bad, park on level ground, in neutral, loosely chalk the front wheels, crawl under near the rear axle and grab the drvshft and pull & push in& out at the 3rd to see if it moves at all, also try to push & pull up & down, ( your looking for any movement which would mean bad pinion bearings).
If there's very little to no slop, ( you'll know what I mean, we're talking thousandths here). A thousand or two is ok.

It's hard to help and diagnose over the interwebs, but I'm trying to help save you're hard earned money.

I'd default to my original idea and change the fluids myself, which is easy even for someone not skilled with a wrench.
Go out an buy a couple quarts of gear oil (not the ones that say limited slip modifier in them) and a separate bottle of limited slip modifier, usually (4oz).
Crack the fill hole plug first, cause if you drain and can't refill you're screwed, then drain the old fluid and fill with one quart gear oil, add friction modifier then fill with the rest of the gear oil till it weeps out the fill hole. Then go find a parking lot where you can do 6 or 10 figure eights which will get the fluid into the clutch pack, which should stop the chatter you're getting in corners.
If that works great, if not it only cost about $25 bucks to find out.

 

Of course this is just my opinion and I could be wrong, but nobody has told me that in over a month