Lower Ball Joint Replacement

If you are preparing to R&R the lower ball joints then the following video may be of value.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PYUVNriFc98

 

Good camera angles! Thanks for posting.

 

June 4th, 2024. 1996 4x4 SR5 TACO.

Woodcutter follow up. Take pictures as you start to remove each part. Be sure to count the number of threads on the studs to give you some idea on how many threads should be showing after installation, torqueing to specs is advised.

Tip #1. Recommend you remove both old tie rod and lower ball joint (LBJ) using the Duralast Pittman Arm Puller tool, #84-003. Not by beating with a heavy hammer or prying with a fork tool, much easier , and less potential damage.The ones I saw were of two different sizes, the #84-003 can be used for both. At removal you slowly turn the tool pushing the old stud out. It did “pop” out when it reached a certain amount of force on the stud.

Tip #2. The same tool can be useful in helping the installation of the new LBJ. After you get the new LBJ stud(bolt) inserted into the hole use this tool to keep the stud elevated in the hole. By attaching the tool as was done for removal by screwing it up against the stud keeping it in the hole while preventing it from dropping completely down. The higher the stud is in the hole the closer the plate will be to match up the four bolts with the holes. This helps keep the interface between the new LBJ and the plate close for getting the four bolts started into the new LBJ plate.

Tip #3. Comments from several members say NOT to use Red Loctite., I agree after some research on the Red. Avoid using the Red on any bolt you may need to later remove. It was recommended that Blue Loctite allows you to remove the bolts when necessary.



Good luck, Woodcuter

Closing comment. I found this task laborious and time consuming, not nearly as easy as the video.

 

usually, you just keep turning until they line up.

 

Always, tighten up until the cotter pin will go in. It usually doesn't take much. And for those who haven't stated, always buy OEM lower Ball joints.

 

I would rather use Blue Loctite instead of Red if you offroad a lot and break axles.

 

None of my LBJ bolts, flanged green/flanged red/Black bolts with washers, installed with Blue Loctite have ever loosened up without putting a wrench on them. And I have racked up well over 2500 days off-road with my '97 V6 Taco Xcab 4x4 hunting truck in over 25 years of wheeling this Taco. On my 3rd set of LBJs now: original OEMs, then a failed experiment with the greaseable 555 JAPAN LBJs, now back to non-greaseable OEMs retrofitted with the later LBJ Protectors fastened with OEM Black bolts torqued to 37 ft./lbs. all with Blue Loctite on the LBJ bolts. And the most important part, my '97 Taco has never taken the failed-LBJ dive.

 

if you use the Red stuff, how are you ever supposed to remove the 4 bolts on the next swapout, i thot the red stuff was fairly 'permanent' and takes heat + torch to loosen it up?

 

Do NOT use RED Loctight 271. Member Leid reply recommends BLUE. Thanks to all the TACO members who caught this major error. I was not aware this is permanent preventing removal of the LBJ to replace it. I apologize, and again thanks for this correction. This error was deleted. Woodcutter

 

1996 TACO 4x4, V6, SR5 , automatic

Lower Ball Joints part numbers for the above TACO

OEM parts from Toyota dealer included with each new LBJ: 4 bolts, castle nut, and a cotter key.
JOINT ASSY LWR 43340-39585 and 4330-39815

 

The single biggest MTX challenge/threat we 1st Gen Taco 4x4 owners have to deal with is our self-destructing LBJs, which are best regarded as a major design flaw. The last individual OEM Taco 4x4 LBJs I ordered came with (4) green flanged head bolts which are the oldest design/least desirable OEM LBJ bolts. Both the green flanged head bolts and the later/improved red flanged head OEM LBJ bolts require 59ft./lbs. torque. And neither the green bolts nor the red bolts are long enough to be used with the rubber LBJ Protectors which became available on the 2001 1st Gen Taco IIRC. Those 2 types of early LBJ bolts were the ones I/we routinely used on our early 1st Gen Tacos, until Leon decided to conduct his most-excellent LBJ bolt testing. The current OEM 90119-10933 Black LBJ bolts with washers are the longest/strongest OEM LBJ bolts available and are required for use with the rubber LBJ Protectors. The OEM Black bolts with washers require only 37ft./lbs. torque as shown in the video linked above and can be used with or without the rubber LBJ Protectors. Just do a quick check on the depth of the blind LBJ bolt holes in the knuckle to be sure they were drilled/tapped deep enough to accommodate the longer/stronger Black bolts. The original OEM knuckles on my 01/97 manufactured '97 Taco were drilled/tapped plenty deep enough to use the later/longer/significantly stronger Black bolts with washers. It is very important to know exactly which OEM LBJ bolt you are dealing with & the factory specified torque for that particular bolt. Bottom line on the (3) different OEM LBJ bolts: The current OEM 90119-10933 Black bolts with washers torqued to 37ft./lbs. delivered a significant increase (30% increase over the original OEM green flanged head LBJ bolt) in Preload/clamping force between the OEM LBJ and the knuckle and are a very significant upgrade to our LBJ MTX/safety. Reusing either the green or red flanged head OEM LBJ bolts even once is very unwise as it will yield a significant reduction in Preload/clamping force. Leon did all of us 1st Gen Taco owners a great service with his extensive LBJ bolt testing: Everything You Always Wanted About Lower Ball Joint Bolts | Tacoma World. Leon's post with empirical data derived thru his actual testing is a must-read to fully understand and mitigate the effects of the self-destructing LBJs on our 1st Gen Tacos. As a group, we also need to educate the newer 1st Gen Taco owners in order to prevent them from taking the all too common failed-LBJ dive. Our 1st Gen Tacos are now old. My '97 V6 Taco Xcab 4x4 even qualified for an ANTIQUE TRUCK lisc. plate here in MS. HTH.

 

Always torque to spec when vehicle is in the ground.

 

what kind of torque wrench are you supposed to use on the LBJ castle nut... i could not find clearance from the wheel with 1/2" torque wrench, had to have wheels off to do that

 

It’s been awhile since I did them but I don’t seem to remember having clearance issues.

And I just have a run of the mill Gearwrench 1/2” torque wrench

 

perhaps its the stock 15" wheels i have with a standard-depth socket (whatever size it is?)
tekTon wrench
No Clearance!

 

Most guys wait until they see movement in the Taco LBJ before changing them out. The problem with that mindset is by the time you see movement in the LBJ, it is not just ready to be replaced. It is ready to fail at the very next pothole. The FSM has an actual LBJ/UBJ inspection procedure (below), but I don't think many here have seen it much less used it.

 

https://youtu.be/4oa_W-mh3QU?si=JVc56PtresNmZwqU

for a sequoia but similar?
1st few minutes is the check for excessive movement

 

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=rteeAOQlrKY

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=bfLvtEnX9qk

 

I treat them like time bombs, I've seen ones we've checked for play in every regard fail 1 month later.

If they are original on any 1st gen tacoma or tundra I call them now.

If they are over 160,000km or 100,000 miles I suggest them.

They fail so violently and are more likely in rust regions.

 

Driver side fail more often than passenger side?