Lower bumper light bar wiring

Wow....this is so helpful! I really appreciate the thorough explanation. Any normal relay will work? Do you have a link for one?

 

Yes. But if you leave it outside a box, then get a sealed one.
https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/product_info.php/products_id/504
Assemble it yourself for a custom install.

 

Thanks. I will look for a 4 pin on Amazon just to order all at once. Thanks again!

 

Another option:
Battery-fuse-Relay (pin#30 proper wire gauge for added light//18 gauge to tie in from pin#30 to pin#86)
Relay pin #87 to added light
Relay pin #85 to cab switch with 18 gauge wire.
Cab switch needs to be SPDT (Single Pole Double Throw).
On switch center pin from relay pin #85.
Remaining top and bottom pins on switch = Chassis Ground on one, the other to C11, Steering Stalk Light Switch connector, pin #14.
Switch provides ON at anytime. OFF. And ON with High beams.

 

Understood. I do not want to cut into existing wires. I'll find a relay and try your original option. Any certain amperage for the relay? 4 pin correct?

Something like this?

$17 1 Set DC Relay 12V DC 40A 4Pin Automobile Relay Integrated Relay Wire Waterproof Integrated Car Auto Socket

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NBH4IVV/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A36ZH2MCHPKXUA&psc=1

 

Yes, just make sure it's light bar amp appropriate. You never mentioned which Cali light bar your getting.

 

https://caliraisedled.com/collectio...coma-32-lower-bumper-hidden-led-light-bar-kit

32” lower bumper light bar.

 

If you didn’t get a wiring kit you should ask them what the wattage or current (watts/12V) is for that light bar since it’s not listed on their site. Or check the box it comes in.

 

300W 3k lumen but no amp or volt detail.

 

300watts divided by 12 volts is 25 amps.

 

It’s ok to use bigger wire than you need(just more expensive). It’s not ok to use a bigger fuse than the wire is rated for. The fuse is to protect the wire so the fuse should be at or below the wire rating. Wires don’t generally fail unless grossly undersized but even before failure there is a loss of voltage from wire heating and lower light output so it’s best to use the right size. Cheap connectors are more likely to be a problem. Cases in point, the 3rd gen heated seat module connectors and 2nd gen blower motor resistor connectors.
I use this page for choosing wire.
https://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm
Going by it for chassis wiring either #12 with up to a 30A fuse(25A ok too) or
#14 with a 25A fuse.
The voltage drop for 10’ of wire would be about .6v for #14 and .4v for #12. (Count both positive and negative wire lengths).
Make sure the connectors you use are rated at 25A or more.