Lower Control Arm Seized?

Seized LCA doesn't make any kind of sound. When you try to replace or adjust them, then you will find they are seized. If you're having weird noises, then that's something else.

 

Will a seized lower control arm limit the range of motion?

My passenger LCA is seized and it seems like my truck is always leaning to the driver's side even on flat ground. Could the seized LCA be the cause? My passenger front wheel will still articulate but seems to prefer to stand tall.

 

Could be taco lean?

 

Is there a video or something of someone cutting the alignment cam bolts? I need to do this but I would like to see it done first. I plan to just replace the entire LCA. I already have some new factory alignment cams that I will grease prior to installing.

 

No, seizure of the LCA mounts limits the adjustment. It does not limit the range of motion.

You usually don't get taco lean on stock suspension, but if you have aftermarket springs, it is very common to have it lean towards the drivers side. Put in a 1/4 or 1/2 spacer on the strut and it will level it out.

 

Video would have been good. This was a PITA. I tried with every type of metal blade for a sawzall that would fit and all of them did nothing. I actually bought a reciprocating saw for this and it didn't help. I hear the ones with the grit on them do better, but I couldn't find any at my store. I ended up using a very large, like 7", cutoff wheel on my angle grinder. What you have to be careful with is not to cut your frame.

You can also try the tool that presses them out with a tool like this:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...yQr1qHTfTkzLgyi503PmG8HGfqU8qrnAaAgA3EALw_wcB

 

I have this problem too. My trucks at the shop to push the caster forward and they say it'll be 3-4 hours of labor but thankfully not a new LCA.. at least yet.

 

Let us know how this turns out. I’d be amazed if you don’t need new LCA bushings at least.

 

Oh ya they are going to do bushings. All in the name of a little more tire clearance.. ha. They did say the wheel is as far back towards the cab mount as possible, I wonder if it came from the factory like that or if some alignment shop along the way decided to.

 

I'm in the middle of this issue now. With everything connected, all I could do is try to break them with an impact wrench and a breaker bar on my back under the truck. Not much room to do anything.

In the rear, I was able to get the set nut off of the rear cam bolts, but unable to actually turn or remove the rear cam bolt. Impact wrench (1024 ft-lbf), breaker bar, and hammering the shit out of it accomplished nothing.


For the front, I was able to get the front cam bolt out. However, the front sleeve is seized inside preventing the installation of new cam bolts and the front cam splines that attached to the sleeve got stripped off.


Failing to really accomplish anything, I retorqued all the nuts back on so that I could at least drive and decided to just buy new Moog LCAs and cam bolts. Everything including shipping from rockauto was $275. My Moog LCAs and new cam bolts should be in the mail today. This weekend I'm going to try again to break the bolts loose just because I know trying to cut through them will be a bitch. I think if I unbolt the ball joint and the shock mount and swing the control arm down, I'll have enough room to access the cam bolts with a breaker bar from outside the truck. Previously I was doing all the work on my back under the truck. I have a feeling that I'm going to have to cut through the bolts anyway and now that I'm getting new LCAs, I don't care about the old bushings...so I may try some heat before I grab the sawsall.

 

If you have access to a welder, put a few beads on those alignment tabs before they flatten out.
Good luck getting the bolts out.

 

Another one here but I was able to heat the bolts and pop them out, without cutting them.

 

For the record my first set of Moog LCA's lasted me 10K miles, then blown lower ball joint. My factory set lasted 80K and the ball joints were still fine. Moog did replace under warranty but I was responsible for labor. If you can afford it get OEM so you only have to do the job once.

 

nah the dealership will RR the whole LCA with a new one, its the easiest way

 

jup this is what my researching is telling me to buy OEM complete LCAs the aftermarket don't hold up and its a pain to remove the ball joint and replace LBJ to replace it

 

me too the same side, its more than likely the forward cam bolt seized and the bushing getting worn, mine has a slight clicking noise when I stop cause the bushing is getting worn, I would try and torque the bolts to 100 ft/pds. maybe just loose, I also recently sprayed all the LCA bolts/cams with Silicone and its helped with the annoying noises

 

good luck man , wish I was there to help you, would like to learn how to do this myself

 

Someone needs to do a video on this procedure of removing stuck cams. I’d try to cut them out myself but I’m too skeered. I’d like to see a YouTube video first.

 

me too, im even a little hesitant to try and remove mine to lube them