lug nut bolts keep breaking

I have to kindly disagree with those saying NOT to use anti-seize. I will always use it on studs and lug nuts. I use it on pretty much everything else except maybe oil plugs. It purpose is mainly to lubricate the 2 parts enough to get a proper torque spec. Tight is tight regardless if the 2 metal parts are lubricated or not.

Anti-seize will NOT make the lug nut loosen up, in fact it allows for it to tighten down properly and not come off. I would bet that no one has had a properly torqued oil plug work it's way out and it's loaded with lubricant. If lubricant on threads allow the nuts and bolts to separate our entire engine would fall apart.

Another very important property of anti-seize is it assist in not cross threading. The most susceptible time to cross thread is when first installing a bolt or nut. Anti-seize allows the 2 parts to "pop" into place correctly during that critical first thread.

Those of us that have worked on PVC sprinklers know how important teflon tape is. Try putting 2 PVC sprinkler parts together and have them grab and stick before they are properly torqued. Telfon tape isn't meant to seal it's meant to assist in properly torquing the parts together. Anti-seize works the same on metal parts as telfon tape does on PVC parts.

Everyone's entitled to my opinion and you just got it. Google also helps.

 

I think you found your problem...

Although I do not use anti-sieze, I would agree with this. It would not cause the lug nuts to back off if they are properly torqued. High strength bolts/nuts are actually oiled so they go together easier and rely on the pressure from torquing the bolt to keep the nut in place. Personally, it's a mental thing, I won't put anything like that on a lug nut for my own piece of mind

I wouldn't agree that it does the same thing as teflon tape though... Teflon tape is to seal thread gaps so screw together connections don't leak.

 

We have always used anti-seize on both our race trucks and never had a problem. We torque our lugs down to 90lbs with a torque wrench, but when removing and installing we use an impact... still to a final torque with a torque wrench... Same goes with my dirt bike. While I am putting it on my axle, I just rub a little on the threads and it locks it on good with never anything backing off.

This is just my experience with anti-seize... maybe some people have had worse luck than me. But if it was up to me I would say go for it especially if you do alot of off-roading or they salt your roads up where you are.

 

Fwiw, I've never put anything on the studs/nuts and always torqued appropriately. Never once had a problem on any of my vehicles.

 

Then thats les schwabs fucking up your bolts. Go raise hell

 

i concur. excellent explanation. you made me think about when installing a cyl head, manual states to oil the head bolts for proper torque... same principle.

 

Thats not even an explanation though...

 

There are different specs for torque with the bolt/stud being dry or lubed/anti-seized. You will not lose a lug from antiseize. You might if you under torque them. I have used antiseize extensively as a Marine Machinist and as a truck/car mechanic. No customers have ever said that they lost a lug or wheel after I worked on their vehicle. I have had no problems with sheared studs or lost lugs on my personal vehicles.
Do what you like. I'll stick with what I know is the truth

 

OP- have you only had this problem with aftermarket wheels, or with stock as well?

 

seriously? read his post, post #42. i guess you need it translated in french?

 

I only have aftermarket

 

Didnt' read every post. I am not making any recommedations. Personally, I do put a small amount of Anti-Seize on wheel studs. I have had a number of studs break on friends/customers rigs due to rust/corrosion/nuts being put on with an air gun. I start all lug nuts by hand and tighten them down to proper torque spec. Proper torque is what holds the nuts tight. The anti-seize works great at keeping the lugs form "seizing" due to corrision or high temps.

 

upgrade to ARP wheel studs or stop torquing the heck out of your lug nuts.

 

83lbs is what i torque to. That's not torqueing the heck out of them

 

If the anti-seize is applied to the threads then you're good to go. The misapplication of the anti-sieze to the lug nut mating surface is where you can have problems.

Very comprehensive discussion here:

http://www.engineersedge.com/wwwboard/posts/13070.html

 

I'm not a professional plumber but have done lots of DIY work on PCV, galvanized steel for water, and black steel pipe for natural gas. Any plumbers here please correct me.

The sealing of threaded joints on water and gas pipes are performed by a tapered threads which get tighter and tighter as they go together. The telfon tape or pipe dope allows the 2 threads to torque down smoothly to each other to perform the seal. The telfon tape/pipe dope is not used to seal or take up bulk like a rubber washer on a threaded joint.

That's my understanding.

 

Damn man, I googled it and found a ton of information on how teflon tape works. Some state what you said, that it lubricates the threads to allow the two pieces to be tightly threaded together to the point of deformation, thus creating a tight seal. Others state the teflon tape makes the seal. Beats me, all I know is the stuff works That was how it was explained to me.

 

Can an extension be used with a torque wrench? I need to use one cause of the fat tires

 

I've always been told no. Maybe try a deep socket?

 

Was curious.