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MAF Sensor Cleaning..

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by eric70412, Feb 5, 2009.

  1. Feb 5, 2009 at 7:41 PM
    #1
    eric70412

    eric70412 [OP] Active Member

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    I think I might be having a problem with my Mass Air Flow sensor. I had saw someone write somewhere in here that they clean their MAF Sensor when their truck does'nt wanna start when hot.

    Can anyone tell me in these pics if that is the MAF sensor?? Is it hard to remove? How do you clean it? And how much does a new one cost if this one is bad?

    I would really appreciate any help anyone could give me. I am having problems starting my truck sometimes when the truck is hot. I havent replaced the spark plugs yet. I am gonna try that b4 I try to do the MAF..

    See jpg. images below.. Thank you..

    maf.jpg
    Maf2.jpg
    maf3.jpg
     
  2. Feb 5, 2009 at 7:50 PM
    #2
    tacomaman06

    tacomaman06 Carolina Alliance: Lead, follow, or get the hell o Staff Member

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    yep....thats the sensor. just take out the 2 screws and unhook the connector. when you clean it..............you wanna spray it with some electrical contact cleaner by crc.................and now crc makes a maf spray cleaner. either will work. just spray it.....................DO NOT touch it...let it dry, then plug it back in/replace screws. not too sure on price of a new one.........but they aint cheap.

    something else you may wanna look into...............cleaning the iac valve...l.ocated on the bottom of the throttle body. you'll need to remove the tb...........buy tb gaskets and the rubber iac valve gasket...........clean both with seafoam deep creep, then replace. you will notice a good difference.
     
  3. Feb 5, 2009 at 8:59 PM
    #3
    humanoid

    humanoid bite me

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  4. Feb 7, 2009 at 7:45 AM
    #4
    eric70412

    eric70412 [OP] Active Member

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    Thank you very much for the info. Great job!!
     
  5. Dec 12, 2010 at 12:26 AM
    #5
    carmellocafe

    carmellocafe Begin With The End In Mind.

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  6. Feb 13, 2012 at 3:15 PM
    #6
    SOSHeloPilot

    SOSHeloPilot Well-Known Member

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    Finally, got my "first 4x4" in a Tacoma. Barcelona Red w/ JBL & Entune - Then traded it in on a Ridgeline.
    .
    ... Sub'd ... I need to do this at my next oil change ... :D
    .
     
  7. Feb 13, 2012 at 9:46 PM
    #7
    DNG

    DNG Well-Known Member

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    off topic: what are the symptoms of a dirty MAF?
     
  8. Feb 13, 2012 at 9:50 PM
    #8
    lil J

    lil J Well-Known Member

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    decreased MPG & stuttering and sputtering when accelerating, if it's real bad it will stutter at idle
     
  9. Feb 13, 2012 at 9:59 PM
    #9
    deadhed61

    deadhed61 What a long strange trip it's been...

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    For my 89' 4runner they were asking $180 for aftermarket. If yteou have a multi meter you can easily test it. I have the procedure for my runner and its pretty simple. You should look into the trouble shooting manual.
     
  10. Mar 2, 2012 at 2:43 PM
    #10
    Silver02Taco

    Silver02Taco Feet in the water...

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    Something that slightly resembles a Tacoma...
    So I bought the CRC MAF Cleaner and the Seafoam Deep Clean whatever sauce, and was going to clean my MAF Sensor... and when attempting to unscrew the MAF Sensor from the intake, I stripped out the Phillips head screw on the top side. *Fawk*

    So I went and got a screw extractor kit to help get it out, but can anyone tell me what size these screws are so that when I replace them both I can get the correct size? I'm thinking they're M3 but I'm not sure.

    Thanks.
     
  11. Mar 2, 2012 at 3:09 PM
    #11
    ailll1

    ailll1 Well-Known Member

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    Make a notch on the heads with a dremel(cutting disc) so that a flathead screwdriver will fit.
    Works everytime.
    Hope this helps.
     
  12. Mar 5, 2012 at 2:20 PM
    #12
    Silver02Taco

    Silver02Taco Feet in the water...

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    Something that slightly resembles a Tacoma...
    Turns out the thread is M4 X .7, 8mm long. And I just happened to have 2X of them in a SST Button Head Socket Cap Screw. Now to try and get the stripped one out.
     
  13. Jan 30, 2013 at 7:39 PM
    #13
    ScottValleyGirl

    ScottValleyGirl Active Member

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    Did this work?
     
  14. Feb 25, 2013 at 10:51 AM
    #14
    jgilbreath

    jgilbreath Well-Known Member

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    I cleaned my MAF sensor with CRC MAF cleaner. I did not notice any differences the first 11 miles of driving afterwards. This morning on the way to work truck was driving normal as usual, then I sat still at a light for about 2 minutes. When light turned green and I accelerated there was a noticeable stutter or hesitation by the engine. I have since driven an additional 4 miles and there continues to be stuttering when accelerating and when sitting still at idle. Does this sound like I need to reclean the MAF or replace it?
     
  15. Feb 25, 2013 at 11:08 AM
    #15
    lotsoftoys

    lotsoftoys pavement is boring....

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    bunch of crap
    is there a check engine light on? i seriously doubt its the maf if not.... need to get it diagnosed
     
  16. Feb 25, 2013 at 12:47 PM
    #16
    jgilbreath

    jgilbreath Well-Known Member

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    There is not a check engine light on. The stuttering started 11 miles after cleaning the MAF, that's why I thought it was connected, nothing else has been done/changed recently.
     
  17. Feb 25, 2013 at 1:33 PM
    #17
    127.0.0.1

    127.0.0.1 AKA ::1

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    /etc/hosts
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    anytime you clean TB, replace TPS, clean IAC, or clean MAF,
    replace A/F or O/2

    you have to reset the ECU by disco batt for 10 minutes

    in fact all these maintenance procedures start by disco batt, which
    implies a reset is done...


    let the vehicle drop the old program and then reprogram itself
     
  18. Feb 25, 2013 at 1:43 PM
    #18
    jgilbreath

    jgilbreath Well-Known Member

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    When cleaning MAF I disconnected battery before, left it disconnected for over 30 min. reconnecting and truck ran normal for first 11 miles, then today ideling and stuttering problems started.
     
  19. Feb 25, 2013 at 4:51 PM
    #19
    127.0.0.1

    127.0.0.1 AKA ::1

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    if ECU was reset, run it at least 200 miles of varied traffic
    because it just might be figuring it out, and could settle in...

    if afterward still runs poorly, time to deep dive
     
  20. Feb 26, 2013 at 8:40 AM
    #20
    jgilbreath

    jgilbreath Well-Known Member

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    Correction: A check engine light did come on then turn off a few minutes later on the way home yesterday. When I opened the hood to see what was going on I found that the upper radiator hose was leaking coolant. Would that have anything to do with the stuttering in idle or hesitation when accelerating? Or do I just need to keep driving it so the ECU can reprogram itself after disconnecting battery when cleaning MAF?
     
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