Malburg114's 3Link go fast SAS

Nahh haha

 

Get that shit out of here

It’s more fun to wheel a truck on leafs than it is to be in the shop because you had to spend all your time in the link calculator and then maxed out the CC paying for link stuff

 

Finished replacing the studs in one hub with 7/16 bolts. Bent the drill bit when it caught on the 3rd hole of the 2nd hub. Have to finish the steering links, figure out where the steering stops go and mount the ram then it'll be done.

What do you guys think. Clear coat or paint the axle black?

 

Bolt it on and drive. Looking good! One question, why are you running ifs hubs if you got a wider front axle?

 

The problem with the arps, at least for me, is when you get them close to the proper torque they strip out the hole in the hub. Yes I used red locktite. I switched my rear hubs back over to stock Toyota studs and my steering studs have been stock. I may do the 7/16s bolts in the rear.

 

Getting closer. Hopefully have it driving by next weekend.

 

FROR brake kit requires the ifs hubs, this also converts to slip on rotors. Dont think there is enough room using the sa hubs to have the caliper sit where it does with the ifs hubs.

Good to know, never heard of converting to the 7/16 bolts. Thought you guys were talking about the 5th stud upgrade for the steering arm at first, until I seen drilling/tapping the hubs.

 

Looking good !

 

Just saw the edit. @ToyRyd04 explained it perfectly. So I can keep the Tacoma brakes and because I only have 1 of the SA hubs laying around. Sold the other one years ago. I do need to get longer wheel studs though. Always ran spacers on the ifs hubs and without the spacers theres not enough threads going through the wheel. Just going to get some matrix studs though. Arps are to expensive.

I already did the 5th stud and was definitely worth it. Every now and a then the actual studs will come lose but I think it was from the arps stretching. Was hesitant about doing the 7/16 but I was constantly having to tighten the locking hub studs even with red locktight and got tired of tearing the axle apart every other wheeling trip. And these are quite a bit cheaper than doing arps.

 

Ran into that issue with my spacers, the rear factory studs are longer than the fronts, I replaced my front studs(and got a few trail spares) that allow full thread engagment and now all the same length f&r.

90942-02079 REAR WHEEL STUD

 

I know you need the ifs hubs for the taco brakes, figured you would have ditched them for better steering and less scrub.

I have never had to tighten my Toyota knuckle studs, I figured nature's loctite fixed that.

 

Ill see what they have. Pretty sure that's what they gave me to try was a rear stud because its maybe a quarter inch longer.

Ill still have better and more steering than I did before so its all an upgrade.

Is that rust? haha I red Loctite them and just redid them so hopefully they stay for another year. New problem is the pin in the steering arm has been coming out on the driver side arm. Put some "Right Stuff" in it and clamped it to the table for an hour and hope that fixes it.

 

Rust locktite’s all around here. I’ve just been running 4 OEM studs and never had the nuts move a bit on mine

 

Axles painted. Stripped the knuckles and steering arms as well. Clear coated it all. Hopefully it'll be on its own weight tomorrow

 

And it's done. Time to start saving for a rear axle. She's wide now.

 

New axle looks killer! Really digging the clear coat.

 

Looks fantastic!

 

Thanks guys. Thought it turned out pretty good.

 

What did your wms-wms end up being? Looks great, nice and wide and low, especially for leaf springs (or at least the pics make it look low?)

 

Just over 68-68.5" wms to wms. Little wider but itd rather it be wider than narrower. Its not as low as when I first finished it on 35s but a little lower than before. Probably around a 23-24" frame height. Ill measure it this week.

Hard being low on these trucks with leaf springs though. Lowered the bump stops 1.25" because the drag link got into the oil pan more but did take a leaf out so the steering would clear the leaf springs (spring perches are taller) so kind of equals out. You can see the shock shaft in the one picture and it uses all of the shock under articulation but about 3/4 of it when both wheels are up.