Maxtrac Spindle Lift for 2nd Gen Prerunners

No ur travel is still the same.

 

I put in wheeler superbumps and what a huge improvement. Totally worth it if you offroad. With my icons and superbumps it feels like a Cadillac offroad.

 

Hey guys, need some advice. I have had the Maxtrac Spindles for quite a while and been loving it.

I'm going to get some new tires soon, but I believe I also have a bad shock due to cupping tire wear/tire becoming unbalanced. So I want to get new shocks put in before my new tires.

Right now I have the spindles with Bilstein 5100s @ 0 with Eibach Springs ("1.6" lift") and in the rear I have All Pro 3" Leafs plus 1/2" block (to shift my axle forward).

The truck has had a slight bro lean, but it looks good/level when you look at the bed line. I'm debating putting the stock springs back on instead of the Eibachs when I switch the shocks to new ones.

So the queation: Go back to stock springs for a softer ride on road? (Drops front 1-1.6", slight rake?) Or keep the eibachs and current lift? Either way I will set @ 0 I believe.

Opinions apreciated. Thanks!

 

How stiff is the ride? I am planning on installing spindles and eibachs in the next month. I was planing on 2" AAL and 2" block for the rear. The height looks perfect in the front, but if the ride is suffering, then lose the eibachs.

 

Honestly rides been good except for this last year got me thinking.....just can't remember the stock difference since its been quite a while and I also preloaded the stocks before so can't remember the no lift feel of the stock springs. Just helped a friend do 5100s at 1.75 and he says he noticed the stiffness increase.

I also removed my sway bar, could help with on road driving to have on again. Think the eibachs allow you to do so without a lot of body roll due to stiffer springs. I might put the sway bar back on after. Also this bad shock/unbalanced tires could be what I've been not liking lately....

So I guess the main argument is stock softer spring and lower front vs stiffer spring and the level it is at now.

 

You think thats stiff...ive got my 5100s at 1.75 and the eibachs

 

One thing you might want to consider is switching out the ebiachs for ome 883's which will be a lil softer spring but you will still keep your lift. You can still keep your 5100's set at 0 so there won't be any preload

 

When you mention the 1/2" block is that a pinion shim? And why did you have to shift the axle forward?

 

I had problems with my driveshaft's rubber bearing, it blew out after lifting rear since the lift shifted my axle rearwards, pulling the shaft backwards also and forcing the bearing backwards while rotating. Could have been since I initially installed my rear springs backwards? But when I flipped them the correct way, I still had the problem.

So I used an axle relocation bracket to shift my axle forward in order not to damage my new rubber bearing.

Hm that's not a bad idea but they cost as much as new shocks, and don't know if the change is worth spending if I can choose between stock and eibachs that I have already.

 

Just sell your ebiachs to recoop some of the money. They will go quick on here

 

What you should of used is this type spacer instead of those. This way your axle stays mounted in the same position. You can get them in different thicknesses.
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/DriveshaftSpacer.shtml#Note3

 

Ah very nice, thanks for sharing the info. Maybe after I do the front end replacement and tires I'll go back and do this change to the rear. Need to determine the correct thickness needed, as the axle relocation plates weren't an exact solution.

 

All you have to do is move the axle back to the stock location w/o your shim, undo the driveshaft from the flange, loosen the bolts on the carrier bearing and slide the driveshaft forward to the appropriate location, then just measure the space between where the driveshaft mounts to the rear end.

 

I see. That would be ideal if I had the spacer already to do in one shot, but I don't know If I should drive without the axle relocation plate until I order the correct axle spacer. Seems like I need to remove the plate to measure, then reinstall it until I get the appropriate spacer.

I would measure this while sitting on ground, not lifted correct?

 

Yes measure when its on the ground

 

I am looking to get these spindles and had a question. Don't know if it has been covered(to many posts to read), but I have 17" rims with 4.5" backspacing and 305/65 tires. Will the wide tires rub the spindle at all? Anybody running the same rim and tires set up with these spindles? Thanks...Mike

 

I have 17s as well 4.5" backspace and -12mm offset...I have the spindles. .no wheel spacers. ..and ive ran 285/70, 33x12.50, and now 35x12.50....they clear with plenty of room

 

Sweet, these will be my next purchase.

 

Update on my rear/driveline vibes. A couple weeks ago went down to Maxtrac and had Bob take a look at my truck. Turns out the u-bolts on one side were a bit loose, he tighten them up and recommended I get ET lug nuts just in case. I picked up some lug nuts and to sum it up the vibes went away for a while

Now just this past sat/sun I started feeling the same vibes. I did the CB drop and was still getting vibes, at this point I was convinced the block could be the issue so decided to to ditch the blocks and pick up a 1.5 deaver leaf pack w/ 3 degree shims from TW member memo campos. I took out the CB drop and had a shop swap out the leaf pack, they truck rides a lot better than it did but the vibes are still there.

Next step to try to fix the issue would be the street tacos CB bracket from street tacos(beefedtaco) or the drive shaft spacer from 4crawler off road. I'm going down to a local driveline shop tomorrow first to see what they recommend, I'll post what I find out.

 

Take a good look at your carrier bearing. I got the beefedtaco cb bracket and it helped but still had vibes.I still noticed that the driveshaft was further back,meaning the CB has to ideally drop AND move back to sit right. Even though dropping it helps, I noticed it still didn't sit neutrally centered on the axle where it used to sit stock lift.

My solution was like i said above by moving my axle forward to align the axle/CB correctly with axle relocation brackets. Still didnt fully go back but definitely near. But as BORNWILDGUY also posted there are spacers to help do so better. I will try this soon to get my driveshaft lined correctly in place and hope to eliminate any leftover vibes/hums I get.