Mc1337sauce's Turbo 1997 4Runner Build

Well, I added a couple things to the 4Runner recently. First was a GReddy oil cap a few weeks ago - looks pretty sweet under the hood, and it's made in Japan, so you know it's awesome (plus it adds at least 15hp...lol). I got one of the last ones on closeout for $30, which is an awesome deal IMO.





I also installed the sport skid plate from the 2001-2004 Tacoma on my truck yesterday. It is a straight bolt-on for 1996-1998 4Runners, but for 1999-2002, you need to make some bracket extensions to accommodate the fat-lip bumper. I got it from toyotapartszone.com for about $100 - not too bad IMO.



Next mod will be a URD O2 Calibrator to allow for proper fuel mapping with my turbo setup. Then I might increase the boost to 6 or 7psi (if I can keep the AFRs down) and see how she runs.

 

I heard your going to switch to a supercharger?

 

Hell no. lol. Turbo is too much fun and sooooooo much better than an S/C.

 

Instant power > lag

 

Turbo and supercharger both seem fun, but I think I would rather the ability to tune the turbo. Just my 2cents.

 

Instant spool = instant power. I win. lol

 

No

 

Superchargers are essentially outdated technology, and the only reason to install one is to keep a vehicle smog-legal. A properly sized turbo will make boost as soon as a supercharger, and will make more power per pound of boost, too.

Turbos are definitely the better way to go all around.

 

Nice build you got going here. was wondering though why u chose not to put an intercooler?

 

I am staying non-intercooled simply because I don't want to cut up my truck. In order to install an intercooler on these trucks, you need to cut holes in either the core support or inner fenders. The other option, which avoids cutting, is to remove the factory skid plate, but I do not want to go that route either. I think I will be content with low boost (~7psi is my goal) and no intercooler. If I need to cool down my intake temps, I will go with meth injection instead I suppose.

 

Long time no post here on TW. Lots of changes in the past couple years or so, mostly added JDM bits. I guess I'll just go chronologically through what I've done.

Rebadged to Hilux Surf in May of 2014.



Converted TiAL Q to QR to get rid of the nasty stalling issue.



Cleaned headlights (huge difference in output) and threw on eBay clear corners to get a feel for how I liked the look.



Then swapped out the crappy Chinese corners for some OEM JDM ones. This is where the JDM/Hilux Surf addiction really starts going into full swing.




NGK plug wires - dat blue tho. Engine bay theme strong.



Re-wrapped my keyfob in teak wood. 3M Di-Noc is a PITA compared to 1080.



Picked up some 2015 FJ Trail wheels with stock 265/70R17 tires.



Swapped all of the interior bits possible to woodgrain (for those who don't know, Japanese Surfs came with woodgrain and cloth seats in the SSR-G and some SSR-X trims, which is what I am replicating).



And of course, I've been keeping it clean.



I have a couple more JDM bits coming right now, and as I find and source more parts my truck slowly turn into what will essentially be a LHD Hilux Surf. Stay tuned!

 

Do you have a vid series of the turbo install on youtube? I just picked up a t3/t4 for mine and am trying to find knowledgeable people for when I undoubtedly need them haha

 

Yes I do, youtube.com/redonkilaus. If you need any help when you're doing your install let me know. Also check out CustomTacos if you haven't already, lots of boosted 3RZ builds over there.

 

Nice I thought that engine bay looked familiar. I watched your whole install the other day, nice work. Wish my junk was that clean haha. Was your BOV recirculated in your test drive vids?

 

Nope, hence the afterfire that you probably heard a couple times. Definitely opt for the recirculated option for yours, it's not that much quieter than atmospheric if you are using an open element filter (if you care about scaring pedestrians), and the stalling issues that you will run into if it's not recirculated will drive you nuts. Forced me to quit driving the truck for a month before I swapped to recirculated since the parts were on backorder at the time.

 

Is there any other way to get around the stalling issue without recirculating it? I would really like to keep it atmospheric, I like the sound

From what I've read if you blip the throttle after you let off of WOT it will not stall.

 

If your truck is automatic, no, even if you blip the throttle it still has stalling issues. The only way around it for me was by blipping the throttle 2 or 3 times, which would be fine unless you're coming up to a stop light or an unexpected stop, in which case you can't do so unless you left-foot brake. If your truck is manual, it shouldn't stall if you keep it in gear (engine brake) after WOT runs. Honestly, the TiAL Q and QR have very close to the same sound with my setup (yours will likely be extremely similar), so IMO the QR is a no-brainer. Mine certainly scares and pisses off pedestrians when I'm ripping through campus or driving around my neighborhood.

The other issue with running the atmospheric valve is the extreme rich condition you'll encounter upon throttle cut (which causes the stalling). Unless you're catless, expect to kill your cat in short order with all the fuel you'll be dumping into it. Another option is to switch to a standalone ECU and forego the MAF sensor in favor of a MAP sensor, but if you have OBD-II emissions testing where you live like I do, that is not an option.

 

How far can I push a non intercooled setup before risking detonation? I only run 93 octane and am trying to figure out whether to intercool or not. I'd like to run 7-8psi reliably. I picked up a set of pink top injectors and a 255 lph fuel pump

 

You can run in the 5-6 range on a 3RZ and 7-8 on the 2RZ. If you don't mind hacking up your core support, an intercooler is a no-brainer, as you'll make more power at the same boost levels. The other option is to add methanol injection onto the non-intercooled setup, which is what I plan to do before the Arizona summer heat returns. I'm running 5 psi non-intercooled on the 3RZ with 91 octane fuel (highest available in AZ), and everything is peachy, though the truck gets heatsoaked very quickly in the summer.

 

It's not about hacking up the core support (I've hacked up the whole truck lol), it's about space. I can't run a front mount in it's normal location for two reasons; my winch bumper really limits mounting locations and I can't route the charge piping under the driver's side headlight like everyone does as my orbital valve for the my hydro steering is mounted to the frame right behind the core support. I have been looking at small fmic's that would fit on the pass fender under the hood or maybe even running a fmic in a top mount orientation.