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MCM Fab LT Install/Review

Discussion in 'MCM Fab & Design' started by Blackdawg, Nov 10, 2017.

  1. Nov 10, 2017 at 8:38 AM
    #1
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg [OP] Dr. Frankenstein

    Joined:
    Dec 31, 2010
    Member:
    #48500
    Messages:
    79,636
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Monte
    Wyoming/St. Louis
    Vehicle:
    The Trifecta of Taco's
    ALL OF THEM!...Then some more.
    This is my install/review of my Long travel kit offered by Matt at MCM Fab, a small fabrication shop with big aspirations based in Las Vegas, Nevada. Matt is the owner and main designer and welder at this shop. He is a great guy and very easy to talk too about any setup you want.

    Check out the MCM website here: http://www.mcmfablv.com/index.html

    Matt can be reached at:

    matthew@mcmfablv.com
    (702) 629-3235

    Or PM him on here now! @M C M

    Hours:

    Monday-Friday : 8:00AM to 5:00PM

    He is always quick to respond to any question you may have about anything. So don't be scared to ask him about anything.

    I got a complete kit from him, everything was included to do the install including modified tunra CV axles. By modified I mean they have been ground down to help get a pinch more wheel travel. The kit had all hardware for steering, brakes lines and limit straps. I also got some bad ass new ADS 2.5x8'' short body coilovers with Eibach coils of my choosing. I went with 18'' 700lb coils. If you haven't heard of ADS, you need to look them up. They are a small company based in Tuscon, Arizona and their shocks easily out do the top brands in several small ways and they are continuing to put new designs and ideas into their shocks and putting pressure on the big companies.

    Check them out here : http://www.adsshocks.com/

    And yes, they do make OEM replacement coilovers for both 1st gen and 2nd gen tacomas :cool: Contact Matt and he will hook you up with that as well!

    But onto the install and pictures!

    This isn't a particually hard install, especially if you have room and the tools. It does take a lot of tools though, I tried to keep track but this isn't a 100% exactly.

    You will need:



    • Basically all normal metric wrenches and sockets both deep and shallow in these sizes
      • 10mm
      • 12mm
      • 14mm
      • 17mm
      • 19mm
      • 21mm
      • 22mm
      • 24mm
      • 36mm
    • Some big crescent wrenches
    • Red Loctight
    • Hammer, hard rubber mallet is fine too but may need a big one too
    • Pry bar or two of different sizes
    • Pliers, both normal and needle nose
    • Pitman Puller
    • Ball Joint/U joint press
    • 20 ton press
    • welder
    • grinder/sander
    • spray paint
    • Jack and Jack stands (duh)
    • Breaker bar
    • Diff oil possibly
    • Lithium based Grease
    • Lots of rags
    • Probably beer
    • And a buddy, or two.....so more beer?

    Having a 2nd set of hands will be very helpful so try and find a friend to help!

    And so we begin, first, some “before” photos!

    [​IMG]Frankenstein 3 by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
    [​IMG]Frankenstein 4 by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
    [​IMG]Frankenstein 5 by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
    [​IMG]Frankenstein 7 by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
    [​IMG]Frankenstein by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    And some in the shop

    [​IMG]LongTravel Install.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-2.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-3.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-4.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-5.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-6.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-7.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-8.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-9.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    And the new parts! :drool:

    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-10.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-11.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    Shot of all the extra hardware with it. I did take this time to replace my 555 LBJs that replaced the exploded OEM ones, with brand new OEM ones. Trust me when I say there is a night and day difference in just feel of the joints. OEM all the way guys!

    This shot has the new brake lines, UCA hardware, limit straps and steering extensions...which are huge :cool:

    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-12.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    But lets start with these freaking beautiful and beef as FUCK LCAs...my god..

    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-13.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    :drool:

    These things are insane. The craftsmanship is out of this world and holy beef man!! Pretty sure the frame will die before these suckers do.

    As you can see they are fully boxed with internal gussets and have a strike plate for a hydro bump stop as well as shock mounts for the coil over and a bypass.

    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-3.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-4.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    No need for LCA skids here fellas

    [​IMG]LongTravel Install.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    This is one of my more favorite features on these LCAs though, this little end cup. Its for the LBJ to mount to and it totally encases the castle nut on the LBJ. Ill will showcase this more later

    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-14.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    Every single bushing has its own grease zert too. On the Lowers AND the uppers. Very handy and convenient.

    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-2.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    The uppers zert

    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-5.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    There is a built in gusset on the huge uppers as well with the insanely large uni ball for the spindle

    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-6.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    And of course a cool sticker on the UCA for all to see :cool: MCM FTW!

    [​IMG]LongTravel Install.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    Now for the ADS shocks. Made in the USA and also just top notch quality!

    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-8.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-9.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    The resi's are no joke either.

    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-10.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    Although a tad rough to see, you can see the number 1800.300.0700. That means 18'' long, 3'' inner diameter, 700 lb rate.

    Go Eibach!

    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-11.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    Now its time to start tearing stuff off! Of course you have to get the truck up on jackstands and the wheels off. Make sure you get the truck up HIGH> you're about to gain like 4'' of down travel so getting the wheels back on is going to be tricky. This task is becoming a bit of an issue with me with the 35s and long travel now...ha

    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-12.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-13.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    Next remove your skid, this can be different for everyone be it different models ect., but I figure if you can't take off the skid you shouldn't be doing this anyways. When I did this, I discovered a broken lower mount. Bummer. Ill fab up some new stronger mounts later. The skid had some lovely scars on it though!

    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-14.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-15.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    Now its time to remove the spindle. I did this the same as removing a CV but I just added in removing the UCA too. So, start by taking the outer CV nut off, this is where the 36mm socket comes in and breaker bar. Or Air gun..ha

    remove the cap

    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-17.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    and now you can see the inside.

    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-18.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    remove the cotter pin the cotter pin nut and the main nut

    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-19.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-20.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    Now turn your attention to the lower ball joint. There are 4 bolts on the bottom that hole the LBJ to the spindle, undo those.

    You can see two here

    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-16.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    I did not undo the main castle nut and remove the LBJ from the LCA yet. I find it easier to deal with by itself.

    Next I undid the brake line from both the caliper and the frame mount. Make sure you have a small cup or something to catch the brake fluid as plenty will come out. Now you can either keep the copper crush washers on the lower bolt or go get new ones. Technically, you should get new ones, but you'd be fine if you didn't.

    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-21.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    For the frame these is a small lock tab behind the tab. Undo the 10mm line then pull the tab and the line will come free

    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-22.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    Now you just have to undo the UCA bolt.

    [​IMG]LongTravel Install.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    It doesn't come out super easy though. You'll need a drift or screw driver to help pound it out. Some one will also have to be in the engine bay to guide the bolt around any wiring harnesses or other things in the way. But it will come out all the way without having to cut the bolt!

    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-2.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-25.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    Once the bolt for the UCA comes out the whole spindle assembly will just come right out! Super easy.

    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-26.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    Then just undo the top 3 nuts for the coil over and the bottom mount bolt and it'll come right out as well.

    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-27.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    Almost too easy huh? :cool:

    Now remove the brake line totally from the spindle, you will never need it again :D

    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-28.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    Now, I used the 20 ton press in the shop to press the UCA off the spindle, but you can also use the Ball joint press you went and rented from the parts store to do this. This was just easier for me.

    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-29.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    Now this is very important. The OEM ball joint has a snap ring in it! DON'T TRY AND PRESS IT OUT WITH THE SNAP RING IN! That would be very bad. PLUS, you NEED the snap ring!! You have to reuse it on the MCM ones. So, pop it off and keep them handy.

    You can just barely see it in these photos, but its a big ring.

    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-30.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-31.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    Once the ring is out, get your Ball joint press out

    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-32.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    Now I can't totally confirm this but I don't think all of these kits will be the same from store to store. Mine wouldn't totally line up right so we improvised with some ¼'' plate stock. But the ball joint comes out relativity easy once you get going.

    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-33.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    Cute little dead ball joint

    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-34.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    This is what is going to replace it. All grade 8 stuff :cool:

    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-36.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    Its a bit..bigger..haha

    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-37.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    Actually this is what is really going to replace it. This piece is what you have to press back into the spindle. You can see the upper notch that the OEM snap ring goes into.

    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-38.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    Give the spindle hole a nice wipe down and cleaning if there is rust or anything

    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-35.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    Once again I used the 20 ton press as it was easier, but the ball joint press will do this as well.

    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-39.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    Again, once you have it pressed in all the way, you can see where the OEM snap ring goes

    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-40.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    So go find them where you left them and get to putting them on. Not the easiest thing due to their size and no plier holes drilled but, it is do able.

    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-41.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-42.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    Now do that to the other side too, or just set it down for now and come back for it later. Now go back to the LCA and LBJ. Remove the castle nuts from both the outer tie rod end and the lower ball joint

    [​IMG]LongTravel Install.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    Now use your pitman puller to remove the OTRE from the LBJ. Then the LBJ from the LCA. So many acronyms..haha the pitman puller can be rented at a parts store, but really, just buy it. Mine was $15 bucks. And its the BEST way to remove the OTRE and LBJ to save the boots. Which you will be reused both unless you are replacing them. But even then, if you save the boots, trail spares!

    So, get a pitman puller basically. :p

    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-44.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    Magically its gone!

    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-45.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    I then took this time to put in the steering extensions. This is where two large crescent wrenches come in handy, unless you have some big ole metric wrenches which I can't remember the size you need.

    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-46.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    Once you break the OTRE loose unscrew it from the ITRE and then screw in these beefy bastards. The 3.5'' steering extensions. No worried about snapping one of these pigs.

    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-47.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    Super easy!

    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-48.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    I would not tighten them down though, wait until you are done to eye ball align the toe to get you to a tire shop for a real alignment.

    Now its time to undo the LCA bolts to get them out. There are 4, two per side and the passenger side is easy as can be. Don't mind the marks, I though I could “save” my alignment but that plan didn't work out so I wouldn't bother.

    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-49.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-50.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    However, when you get to the driver side, you'll hit a problem. The steering rack is in the way of the back driver side bolt.

    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-51.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    Damn.

    So you basically have to drop the steering rack. So if you haven't done that, there are 4 bolts. This big boy on the driver side that has a nut on the other side as it goes all the way through the crossmember.

    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-52.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    And two on the outside of the passenger.

    NOTE: Mine is not stock anymore since my last accident on the trail, I have 2 studs now. On a normal Tacoma or 4runner there is 1 stud on the top and a bolt on the bottom.

    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-54.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    And the biggest bitch is the middle one.

    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-53.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    Get those out the steering rack will swing enough to let the last LCA bolt come out.

    So naked!

    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-55.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    Finally its time to start putting it all back together. But bigger and better!

    Start with the CV. If you do this quick enough, you won't loose any oil from the diff. Just use a pry bar on the back of the CV and it'll pop right out. Then put your new huge Tundra ones in.

    Slight size difference :D

    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-57.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-58.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    Out with the old and in with the new!

    [​IMG]LongTravel Install.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    Lube up the new bushings on the beefy new LCAs and slap them in. I did have to do some massaging on the mounting point on the truck with a hammer. Needed spread back out a tad.

    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-59.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    yummy :cool:

    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-60.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-61.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    Then put your LBJ on. Again, I put brand new ones on in light of recent (cough) events :anonymous: But now I can show you something really cool about the LCAs. I love how they cup the lower bolt. Super slick..also..how about those welds :drool:

    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-62.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-63.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    Now, there is a slight downside to this, you can't really get the cotter pins in. So instead we opted to just red loctight the nut on.

    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-64.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    Time for the UCAs. How cool is this, even the washers for the UCAs came powder coated to match!
    Matt will do just about any color you want as he does in house power coating too :cool:

    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-65.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    Lube up the UCAs as well

    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-66.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    Then have fun running the long bolt back into them with the washers ha. Its kinda a pain and two people are pretty much needed but doesn't take too long. A washer goes on both sides of the busings so 4 washers per UCA.

    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-67.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    Now put your new brake lines on your brakes. Again, either reuse the copper washers or go get new ones. I went and got new ones, they are cheap. These brake lines a very nice quality. They are stainless steel and have a rubber protective layer. Even come with new backing clips.

    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-68.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-69.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    Is still a banjo bolt on this end though.

    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-70.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-71.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    Now go get your big grade 8 UCA bolt and the two uni ball adaptors and piece them together.

    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-72.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    Now you just have to slap the spindle up on top of the LBJ, install the 4 lower bolts by hand and then line up the UCA

    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-73.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    After this is done, one at a time remove the 4 LBJ bolts, and apply red loctight and tighten down. 55 ft/lbs is the torque spec for them

    then tighten down the UCA bolt, tight.

    Put the OTRE in the LBJ and hand tighten it, don't suck it down yet.

    Run you new brake line up the the frame tab and re attach it as well.

    Now for coilovers!

    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-74.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    pretty self explanatory..

    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-75.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    To attach the resi's I went and got 4 4-6 inch hose clamps and I found these super cheesy rubber pads. They have sticky tape on the back of them and are supposed to be for steps or something. But turns out if you cut them in half they wrap perfectly around the resi's! Now I didn't really do this to protect them from the elements so much, but mostly from the hose clamps themselves and the frame. The very nice coating that ADS does on their shocks will be more then enough to cope with the elements.

    But my resi's will always look nice. Was cheap and easy, and kinda makes em look cool....

    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-76.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-77.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    finally the last part is the limit straps.

    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-78.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    You will be welding on the truck and close to the front so make sure to undo the battery, or batteries in my case

    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-79.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    This is where I decided to put my upper mount for the straps.

    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-80.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    The most ideal way to install these is to take the coils off the coil overs and cycle the suspension. I instead just put a jack under the LCA and lifted the LCA till the shock compressed about 1.5'' taking into account that the straps would stretch. I will probably redo this later with an adjustable Clevis mount. But this worked out for me okay.

    Weld in the top mount and bolt in the lower onto the second shock tab and your golden!

    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-81.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    The last step for me was to grind my calipers which really has nothing to do with the kit itself just my rims. They sadly rub the calipers without the spacers and I am not going to be running those anymore!

    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-82.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    Put on the wheels, take it off the jacks and BAM! Take your first look. Once your done though, don't forget your OTREs aren't tight. Eyeball the Toe on the alignment and then tighten everything up.

    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-83.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-84.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-85.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-86.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-87.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-88.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-89.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
    [​IMG]LongTravel Install.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-2.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
    [​IMG]LongTravel Install-92.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    Yes yes I know the alignment is totally horrid. I redid it a bit better after the photos. But that said. I still plan on going to the shop to see if they can really do it on a rack.

    Overall, this was a pretty simple project. I had a fun time doing it with my brother as it was his first big wrenching project. I think anyone who has installed a lift can do it. The kit is amazing!! The ride even with the scarey ass alignment is plush and just EATS up the bumps. I can hit stuff harder then even and nothing happens :D Matt was great to work with and I could call him any time I had questions. The parts were pristine and fit was excellent! I can't wait to really dive into tuning the shocks to make it even better.

    Surprisingly, the gain in width is noticeable, but its not very drastic. But i had pretty crazy offset to begin with. It was only a 4'' total overall width gain for me. No more "Wide travel" for me :cookiemonster:

    And if you just scrolled through all of that real fast, here is a video that may fit your pace better :p

    Watch in HD!

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gef8w0IzyZk

    I do plan on adding spindle gussets, cam tab gussets, and shock tower gussets and possible a small engine cage from tower to tower. As well as hydro bump stops.

    Be sure to hit up Matt if you are interested at all in one of his kits! Or just some OEM ADS shocks for a nice ride. Or some UCAs and extended travel ADS coil overs for a nice mid travel setup. He will hook you up.

    Whew..that was a long one :D Thanks for reading! Hope it was helpful for some!







    In retrospect. I should have LISTENED to Matt about my coil rate. I fucked up and thought that an 18'' 700lb coil was what i needed. When really i needed an 18'' 600lb coil which is what he recomended. I ended up with a 16'' coil @ 700lbs and it allowed my front end to come down a lot and overall the LT kit work way better as i was in the middle of the travel.

    This is what my truck looked like after the coil swap.


    [​IMG]New Bed Rack-78.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
    [​IMG]New Bed Rack-80.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
    [​IMG]New Bed Rack-82.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
    [​IMG]New Bed Rack-83.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr


    Plus any photo in the last two years has been with these coils.

    Bottom line. LISTEN to Matt!! he knows his shit.

    I have had this kit for about 3 years and put over 10000 miles easily with lots of highway(drove it to canada twice) and just as much hard dirt miles. The kit has held up amazing and taken everything I can throw at it.

    [​IMG]IMG_0123 by Benjamin Springli, on Flickr
    [​IMG]IMG_0128 by Benjamin Springli, on Flickr

    The ride is SO much better than stock suspension I can't figure out why everyone doesn't have it. The ADS Shocks are a dream and my truck is stored outside YEAR round in Wyoming and they still look brand new..despite the occasional dunk in mud..

    [​IMG]FTnBE?-36.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    Despite the abuse, my upper ball joints ares still great and don't make any noise and neither do the bushings. I even nuked my front diff and the CV axles Matt can provide didn't even get fazed. I do have some leaking CV boots but nothing major.

    I am about due for a rebuild all around though on stuff like that but thats more preventative than anything.

    So here is my Pro/Con:


    Pros:

    Rides amazing.
    Great quality.
    Responsive Costomer service.
    Stupid strong and beefy, I mean i nuked my diff and lost a ball joint(lower) and the kit didn't even care or CV axles).
    Fairly straight forward install.
    Price, cheaper than TC kit and as far as I can tell..better.

    Cons:

    Width, though hardly a problem for me, i just drive over everything haha
    No install instructions. But thats not a big deal really.
    It makes you drive really fast :D so again..not really a con! haha
    Wish it came with Clevis mounts for the limit straps. Which Im sure you can get from Matt if you ask. Or just get them from Kartek.

    Overall, this is a great kit by a great company. I wouldn't hesitate to buy again.


    Thank you Matt for making a stellar product!!

    :cheers:
     
    Last edited: Jul 1, 2019
  2. Nov 10, 2017 at 8:43 AM
    #2
    ChadsPride

    ChadsPride Tacoma Owner & Enthusiast

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  3. Apr 20, 2019 at 4:17 PM
    #3
    eimkeith

    eimkeith Well-Known Member

    Joined:
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    Do the LCAs move the LBJs forward from stock?
     
  4. Apr 20, 2019 at 5:53 PM
    #4
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg [OP] Dr. Frankenstein

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    Nope. Only thing out there that does that is the stock width lcas from solo
     
  5. Apr 29, 2019 at 7:24 PM
    #5
    M C M

    M C M Well-Known Member Vendor

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    Lots of expensive shit
    I'd have to double check, think it was around 1/2"
     
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  6. Apr 29, 2019 at 7:46 PM
    #6
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg [OP] Dr. Frankenstein

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    Realllllly. Nice
     
  7. Apr 30, 2019 at 4:07 AM
    #7
    eimkeith

    eimkeith Well-Known Member

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    Yes, please do - I'm about to install one of your kits, but it isn't in-hand yet, or I'd measure it myself. :)
     
  8. Apr 30, 2019 at 7:19 PM
    #8
    Shortman5

    Shortman5 Well-Known Member

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    ..
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    Didn’t you say solo has 2 degrees of caster built in?
     
  9. Apr 30, 2019 at 7:37 PM
    #9
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg [OP] Dr. Frankenstein

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    Yes my stock width solo lcas do. No idea about the lt kits they sell.
     
  10. May 1, 2019 at 5:21 AM
    #10
    eimkeith

    eimkeith Well-Known Member

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    what are you running those on?
     
  11. May 1, 2019 at 7:50 PM
    #11
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg [OP] Dr. Frankenstein

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    Igor my double cab build.

    Yes..I have 3 tacomas...yes it's a problem and yes I love it haha
     
  12. May 20, 2019 at 2:23 PM
    #12
    TacoBran

    TacoBran You're Unique, Just Like Everyone Else

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    Monte - how are you liking the MCM LT thus far? and now having multiple tacoma's with different setups, what would you do differently? Maybe you have a thread like this some where but I've been MIA from TW for a bit. Getting ready to build another tacoma my self with MCM at the top of the list.
     
    Last edited: May 20, 2019
  13. May 20, 2019 at 2:29 PM
    #13
    eimkeith

    eimkeith Well-Known Member

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    Hey there, did you have a chance to check on this? TIA
     
  14. May 20, 2019 at 3:04 PM
    #14
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg [OP] Dr. Frankenstein

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    I love it. I actually hate offroading without it now, which I've had to do quite a bit due to other issues with Frankenstein. It was a huge game changer in ride quality and just over all fun. Would recommend for sure!
     
  15. Jun 7, 2019 at 8:25 AM
    #15
    eimkeith

    eimkeith Well-Known Member

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    Is it possible that it was 3/4”? I’m measuring 20mm or so (best I can do with a square and a tape.)
     
  16. Jul 1, 2019 at 9:32 PM
    #16
    greengaint97

    greengaint97 Well-Known Member

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    Matthew had been a bit unresponsive with me as well when I tried calling him about the mid travel components he was building for my truck. He did get back to me eventually - a week maybe after this time when you posted. He had some personal things come up so he was a bit backed up.

    Hopefully you'll hear from him!
     
  17. Jul 1, 2019 at 9:37 PM
    #17
    greengaint97

    greengaint97 Well-Known Member

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    @Blackdawg thoroughly entertaining to read through. Thanks for posting this. I just finished yesterday installing the little/half brother of this kit - MCM UCAs and ADS 2.5 coilovers (w/ 650# springs I think...? EDIT: yep, checked - they are 650#). I, too, was impressed with the quality of MCM's fabbing. And ADS's stuff is tits!

    0630191857a_2.jpg

    Will be re-locating the rear shocks with some ADS 10" stroke 2.5's (w/ remote resi) - they are in transit.

    Aside question, what is the skid you have on your rear diff?

    EDIT: what kind of grease you pumping into your zerks? I was going to ask Matt what he recommended...my guess was synthetic with Moly?

    TIA.
     
    Last edited: Jul 1, 2019
  18. Jul 1, 2019 at 10:51 PM
    #18
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg [OP] Dr. Frankenstein

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    Nice! I just put that mid travel on my double cab. Same setup but with solo lcas. Love ads stuff. Plan on rear ads shocks on both rigs. Great shocks.

    I use black moly grease. You need to use lithium based grease so as to not deteriorate the bushings.

    My rear diff skid is an original BAMF diff skid. Jerry has since redesigned it but I think still sells it. Pretty pricey though.
     
  19. Jul 1, 2019 at 11:31 PM
    #19
    sandsloth

    sandsloth Observing

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    Awesome stuff man. :eek::drool::muscleflexing:
     
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  20. Jul 2, 2019 at 8:00 AM
    #20
    greengaint97

    greengaint97 Well-Known Member

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    Gotcha. Thanks for the response! Yea, so you have that same set-up mostly. I thought maybe the 650# would be a bit too sprung, and with my new skids coming from 4x Innovations, I think it'll be ideal with what I already have in front end weight. Be curious to hear of any tweaks you made to your front coilovers...

    Also, you mean black grease - not the gray grease, correct? I have gray moly-fortified and I see that the black moly-fortified is designed for bushings, etc..

    This:
    61UajHic1uL._SL1500_.jpg
    NOT this:
    71I0kTAk7XL._SL1500_.jpg
     
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