Moog LCA ball joint, tie rod, and wheel bearing replacement part #'s and general BS

I worked for Timken. They are like many other manufacturers. They will make a bearing for someone else and re-box it under another name. They also buy bearings (that they don't make themselves) and put in in a Timken box. Their QC is VERY good. A lot of aftermarket bearings are Timken. That is a huge part of their sales.

 

Put these in stock assembly to cut costs?

Bearings only, not full assembly

 

you married bro

 

You can, as long as you have plenty of time to do it right. Next time I will do the same thing, just get cheap bearing and install into assembly. Should have done it the first time but I was not sure what to expect.
As I said before makes no sense to spent money on this thing, all bearings come with plastic cage anyway.

 

I know but I had bad cold plus al lthe rusted parts were not making it easy.
This weekend I am doing driver side so I will try to get pics and I will be takign a part OEM hub so there should be pics of that

 

For those that wondered how to separate that wheel bearing.
Home made wheel bearing puller in action. Made out of two angle irons 1/4 inch thick. Total cost about $20 in material and few hours of grinding. Few hours because I thought making one out of 1/8 inch thick steel will do. Well it did not so I had to redo the whole thing with 1/4 angle iron

 

The problem is if you just get bearings then take it apart and find out the shot bearing messed up the assembly your screwed and have to go buy it, meanwhile your vehicle is on blocks. I thought about it, but I'd rather save time then money + my truck is my DD.

Good question. I don't see why you would as long as the bearings are seated in the same location

 

I did not but I am not 100% done yet. Still need to get driver side done. I dont see why alignment would be needed. Truck drives better after pass side got replaced so no rush to get driver side done

 

Either way Ill need an alignment because Ill be doing tie rods, ball joints, spindle gussets, and wheel bearings at the same time.

 

This is what I need to buy/make.

 

wee need someone with the press setup then have a meet that day n do everyones in one shot.....i know at least 6 people that need them done sooooon

 

Ha ha I need my kitchen redone

 

CV boot?

Good idea. You buy the press and we can keep it at my house. One of the guys on TTORA says he can do these on the trail in an hour. Still trying to find out how

 

on that note anyone know where i can get the "hub" just the hub

 

Despite the massive heat, my driver side bearing is now in.


Picture of assembly. Pink stuff is grease, red ring on the bottom is Aluminium spacer for pressing bearings. Its good to rotate bearing while you press to make sure rollers inside are not binding anywhere. Take it slow while pressing as not to damage the bearings. My son asked me "when you know bearing is fully pressed?". You really dont but Seal should be flat to hub and bottom bearing race should be 1 mm - 2mm above the hub.

 

Great photo! Thank you! I did my passenger side bearing Thursday (took a few days in this heat) lifted truck on first day, removed old bearing/hub then next day installed new one. I was not in any hurry and did it outside in the heat of the evening. (About 80-85 with high humidity)
Remove the 2 bolts that hold the brake caliper assembly. (17 MM)

Remove the center cap.

Remove the cotter pin.

Remove castle bolt lock.

Now to remove the bolt, put a screwdriver in the rotor fins to keep it from moving while loosening the bolt.

Now thread 2 bolts into the holes on the rotor to pull the rotor off.

Loosen the 4 hub bolts. (17 MM)

While loosening these 4 bolts, allow the bolts to push against the wheel studs to help pull the hub out. I put another open end wrench in between and loosen the bolts. This does all the work for you.


And now its out!

 

great write up rich......
thanks for all the pics.....

 

Thank you, I only wish I took photos of the install. I guess you just reverse it. lol

 

Working in heat does suck. But tell myself it is better then working while -14F
Good thing on photos, I usually dont have time to clean grease from hands take photo , repeat..

BTW did you had to repleace seals between cv and the spindle? My pass side was crap but oddly my driver side was in perfect shape so I just added some grease and called a day.