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Mounting a Thule roof rack to the factory ditch on Tacoma 4-door

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by powdr_dayz, Dec 20, 2011.

  1. Mar 18, 2012 at 11:43 AM
    #41
    Indeepcamo

    Indeepcamo Well-Known Member

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    We can get two different weight limits with custom options. Fixed point will get you 125lbs and the track system is 165lbs
     
  2. Mar 29, 2012 at 2:40 PM
    #42
    honduraz10

    honduraz10 Member

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    What feet would you use with the tk14 to be able to mount the aerobars?
     
  3. Jul 21, 2012 at 7:46 AM
    #43
    satcom221

    satcom221 Well-Known Member

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    Indeepcamo - What length tracks are those in the pic?
     
  4. Dec 15, 2013 at 6:22 AM
    #44
    drewp

    drewp Well-Known Member

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    Anybody try any of the above mentioned ideas to mount to the factory holes? I just got a new '14 DC and am looking to do an install where I can continue to use all of my thule parts I've accumulated over the years. I notice that the TK14 is no longer available. Is there another best option to mount directly to the factory holes.....even if a mod is needed on the post? Has anyone used a thule system on the factory rack/rail? I don't want to mount inboard of the rail AND drill holes in my brand new truck. Any suggestions Indeepcamo? (I've gotten many of my parts from you in the past)
     
  5. Feb 1, 2014 at 4:44 PM
    #45
    wenkev

    wenkev Well-Known Member

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    This is what I have, Tying to use Yakima to match with the track rack on the back, but I will use the Thule if needed.

    20140127_115310 (2).jpg
    Untitled.jpg
     
  6. Feb 1, 2014 at 4:47 PM
    #46
    MTopp

    MTopp Professional bear handler

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  7. Feb 1, 2014 at 8:37 PM
    #47
    wenkev

    wenkev Well-Known Member

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    Where did this pic come from?
    Did you ever find out if Thule or Yakima will fit the factory mounting points?
     
  8. Mar 2, 2014 at 2:52 AM
    #48
    JohnnyWayne

    JohnnyWayne The Past Through Tomorrow

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    Bumping for justice - any resolutions to the op? Looking for something similar at the moment :)
     
  9. Mar 2, 2014 at 5:12 AM
    #49
    wenkev

    wenkev Well-Known Member

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    I have mounted the Yakima control towers to the factory mounts with the landing pad 11. It has a single mounting bolt. The supplied bolt is the exact fit. It is a perfect strong mount. I will post pics and details later.
     
  10. Mar 2, 2014 at 6:44 AM
    #50
    JohnnyWayne

    JohnnyWayne The Past Through Tomorrow

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    Cool deal thanks Kevin, waiting on pics :thumbsup:
     
  11. Mar 6, 2014 at 4:17 AM
    #51
    JohnnyWayne

    JohnnyWayne The Past Through Tomorrow

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    Here I sit broken hearted....

    Anyone else have any relevant info?
     
  12. Mar 6, 2014 at 6:03 AM
    #52
    wenkev

    wenkev Well-Known Member

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    Look for the Thule "landing pads" with one mounting hole and it should work. On Yakima, the load rating was the same. I just looked the mounting hole and drilled through the rubber gutter trim then pushed the bolt through. It was very easy. I used the middle set of bolt holes. With the front holes I would probably hit my head on with the 66“ bars.
     
  13. Mar 6, 2014 at 6:49 AM
    #53
    wenkev

    wenkev Well-Known Member

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    Here are the pics as promised. Sorry for the delay.
    uploadfromtaptalk1394117204181.jpguploadfromtaptalk1394117216339.jpguploadfromtaptalk1394117258890.jpguploadfromtaptalk1394117324745.jpg
     
    I married my tacoma likes this.
  14. Mar 6, 2014 at 12:28 PM
    #54
    JohnnyWayne

    JohnnyWayne The Past Through Tomorrow

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    Awesome thanks Kevin, +1 rep :thumbsup:
     
  15. Mar 6, 2014 at 1:41 PM
    #55
    tacoholic05

    tacoholic05 Well-Known Member

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    Chris, did you ever have time to looking into this? I like your design and thinking about doing the same. I may cut some mounts at work that bolt directly to the exsisting OEM holes. Just not sure how to fabricate the load bar holders yet. Yakima and Thule have great products but are way overpriced when you think about the simplicity of the tasks they peform.
     
  16. Mar 6, 2014 at 1:44 PM
    #56
    tacoholic05

    tacoholic05 Well-Known Member

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    wenkev - awesome job!
     
  17. Mar 6, 2014 at 2:50 PM
    #57
    Wattapunk

    Wattapunk Stay lifted my friends !

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    The above idea of cutting a section of the tracks won't work because the narrow width of the tracks.. It will collapse the rubber molding when tightening them down and they are too wide to fit down in the channel. You will have to fabricate a wide base for the tracks to mount through . Wenkev's design is good but only works well in his case with a camper rack. I don't think the 4 factory holes will be space out well enough for rest of us to make it look good or serviceable. I have only seen a shop custom drill and mount the tracks with plus nuts next to the rubber molding. Not enough balls to try that myself.
     
    Last edited: Mar 6, 2014
  18. Mar 7, 2014 at 6:46 AM
    #58
    tacoholic05

    tacoholic05 Well-Known Member

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    wenkev, do you remember what the distance was from the front windshield to the first set of OEM holes and then the distance from that point back or from the back to the first set of holes. Looking for the distance between the factory mounting holes. Searched but noone seems to have this info.
     
  19. Mar 7, 2014 at 6:52 AM
    #59
    wenkev

    wenkev Well-Known Member

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    Just pull back the rubber. It pulls off and goes back easily.
     
  20. Mar 7, 2014 at 8:12 AM
    #60
    wenkev

    wenkev Well-Known Member

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    A simple bolt spacer would prevent the compression of the rubber to allow for the track.
     

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