MT Accumulator Delete Mod (ADM) and BS Thread

For the win.

I'm in for more Dazed and Confused references.

 

In.

 

When I first saw this thread I was like, WTF? They run out of things to mod? Crazy forum. Then today I finally drove on (since I’m buying one) and I was all “ooooooh, now I get it”.

Yeah, no feel. And can’t even hear the engine so not much help there either. This will be one of my first mods.

 

SO... my man @7r41lbr34k3r

What are you thinking WRT this little mod?

 

Thinking I need to order those adapters so I have dimensions to work with for the design process. I'm assuming the line lengths allow for a little bit of wiggle room, but I would want to make something that positions the adapters close to where the accumulator ports are (for ease of install). If that proves to be the size of a standard elbow we will have to look at making something to mount the off-the-shelf parts assembly as cleanly as possible.

That and I need about 3 more of me working around the clock to keep things rolling. Trying my best to not spread myself too thin with projects.

Currently making 12 shift knob orders, so once those are finished ... this will be my focus.

 

May I make a suggestion??

If you are going to produce these I noticed that you mentioned aluminum as a possible material choice. Unless it is coated after machine work is done it is going to cause an issue down the road. Brake fluid is hygroscopic and will accelerate galvanic corrosion in the clutch system. Just a simple suggestion. have had this problem in the past on some control systems that used machined aluminum and brake fluid.

 

There is undoubtedly Martin hard coat on the accumulator then. I suspected there might be, but I have been avoiding the urge to hack into it.

 

Hack it!

I have no intention of ever using it again and would never sell that PoS to anyone.

 

Placed an order with Low Range OR for the adapter fittings. Going to machine my own block at work.

 

@tonered
Do you remember if the line is a inverted flair or bubble flair?

 

It is a double (inverted) flare, just like the brake lines.

 

Finally got caught up at work today and decided to tackle this accumulator BS.
Originally was going to make a steel braided line for this and after seeing in person how Toyota Plummed it, probably still will.

This was in the scrap bin at work.
From a 4Runner I put a used rear axle in.

Free parts! Plenty of brake line with 10X1.0 fittings.

That is the cause of all my shifting complaints (that silver SOB)
Decided to do this a little differently than @tonered, but only because it was easier for me. Ha!!
I made a new line from the clutch slave cylinder (the green thing) to the line coming down from the master (the line into the top of the silver thing).
Reused one side of the brake line and fitting already with a flair. Formed it up to fit. Formed a inverted flair to the other end and used a 10X1.0 female inverted flair connector to join the line together.
The bleeder is on the slave cylinder, can be seen in the pic. Gravity bleed was all it needed.

Done! Success!

What an improvement! Only 11 miles home, but I’m happy! The clutch engages/disengages in the same point of travel every time. Butter smooth shifts.
As Tony said the 2-1 downshift is much easier to do smoothly. The thump on the 4-5 upshift is gone.

As stated I’m thinking about redoing this with braided stainless line, I think it’s a better solution. Need to find the fittings first. Really don’t like the double connection at the top, but that’s just my OCD kicking in. Unless........someone tackles machining a replacement block that bolts right in....
Say maybe out of brass
Won’t mention any names..........but I hear he makes really nice shift knobs!

 

Thanks for the pics.

 

Good GOD I need this.

 

Awesome!

Put your OCD in a lock box (I have to do the same a lot of the time). Your situation looks perfect. Just put a P clamp in one of the mount holes to support the line from vibration and shift on!

Enjoy that shifting. Every damn one!

Yes! Yes, you do.

 

You really do!
It feels like a clutch should now!
If you remember this is a Japanese hydraulic clutch....so very light modern feel in the pedal.....say opposed to a V8 with a cable clutch, to me that offers the most feel.
Did a similar mod to a 16 GTI, that only required removing a simple restriction in the slave. It helped but not as much. So I went into this not expecting a huge change.
Shifts, backing, downshifting and starting from a dead stop all improved.

Thanks to @RedBeard1 & @tonered for paving the way!

 

Cheers!

Was undecided on the clamp.
With the engine/transmission rocking, like they do. Not crazy about this being a hard line from the firewall/fender.
Trying to find the fittings now.... really like the idea of braided line, flexible and all but that’s overkill......and how I always seem to do this stuff

 

To me, it is more about the amount of unsupported length and the connections taking all that flex.

In your other post, you mentioned backing up. I haven't towed anything yet, but the frustration of the tall reverse in normal driving is almost completely gone.

 

Simplicity is best Save your time, don't let the OCD win

Not that it's the same vehicle or tranny, but my 2004 IS300 has had this exact setup (female brake union fitting) for over 10 years and 150k+ miles. As someone else stated, I would simply ensure it's properly supported, and move on to the next mod.