MT Accumulator Delete Mod (ADM) and BS Thread

Hey all. I finally got under my truck today to do the first oil change, and I was going to finally tackle installing @Firn's accumulator delete disk. I got the shield off, then got the 3 bolts off that hold the accumulator in place. At that point, I was running low on time and decided to not crack into the brake fluid lines just yet.

I have a couple dumb questions for next time I get in there. Which brake fluid line do you take off first, the upper or lower? I would guess the upper first, but it's not visible from underneath, so that could be dicey. I was also trying to not lose a bunch of brake fluid in the process, so I was thinking about plugging the line with something once disconnected. If that doesn't work and I lose all the fluid, will I need to bleed the brakes as well as the clutch afterwards? (I have the sport, so as I understand, the brakes and clutch share a fluid reservoir).

 

Just catch the fluid in something. I think I used a clean soda bottle. You won’t need to really add any. I think I added some but only a few oz. Also I bled the line by myself, that’s really why I added more fluid.

 

You can also pinch off the line in the engine compartment. https://twstatic.net/attachments/img_20180915_110513-jpg.2906167/.
You can get cheap hemostats at Harbor Freight. I used a set of needle nose vice grips, with small lengths of small diameter PVC over the ends to clamp the hose.

 

You can take off either brake line. Maybe take the top off and put a cap on it, but its not a big deal.

I would recommend loosening the lines before removing the bolts from the accumulator. Having it rigid just makes get the lines loose much easier.

You do not need to change the fluid but you will need to bleed the system. Since your climate is a bit cool I do recommend switching to a "low viscosity" fluid. Brake fluid gets pretty thick when it gets cold and you can feel this in the clutch. Low viscosity fluid does not thicken up as much when it gets cold, it does work just fine when hot however. Pentosin LV is what I recommend to folks.

 

Alright! Gonna attempt the delete this weekend.

I read about the pre-fab line route having some leaking issues. I guess that depends on what hose fittings you get.

Those of you that went prefab, are you leaking?

Trying to get a gauge of success here.

Maybe the delete disc is a better option?

 

Personally I think the disk is the easiest option

 

Only leaks if you don't set it right lol.

Probably.

 

I would agree with this. Unless you already own or can borrow the bending tools, the price is likely cheaper too.

 

Firns Delete disk is a straightforward install, hardest part is the top bolt on the shield. Easy to bleed with a hand bleeder.

 

I might finally get around to this over the weekend - does anyone remember the size of the flare nuts by chance? I saw one guy's writeup mention 14mm for the cover, and then 10mm about something else that was not really clear (contextually, I am not sure what else they could be talking about, but..). Anyway, just want to make sure I've got the right flare nut wrench before stuff comes apart.

 

I believe the nuts are 10mm. That’s what it was for sure where the slave cylinder hard line connects to the master cylinder at the firewall, and they are the same line. 10mm tube nuts are super common for vehicles of this size.

 

If recall they were 10mm as well.

 

Thank you gentlemen, off to Tekton I go...

 

Fwiw I did mine with a standard open end wrench. Being new the nuts came off easily.

Do I recommend that? No. But I was very cautious and made sure I could Crack both lines before I started removing them. I was also in a position where I could grab the other car and get a flare wrench if I needed it

 

Triton

This might help (also attaching here but I like to give credit to @Trident904 as the author and link directly to his post)

Of course you won't have the kit he supplied but lots of good info in that PDF.

 

I don’t believe tekton has flare nut wrenches (at least last I looked). Some people that have used regular end wrenches have rounded them off

I just used a cheap set from Menards when I did mine

 

Picked up a set from harbor freight, worked just fine for the job.

 

That's what I use at my job. And my job is taking Toyotas apart. Lol (I guess I get told I should put them back together too....)

 

They released a line of flare nut crowfoot wrenches last year I think. I have some inch sizes, the fit is tight on all of them (almost too, but better than the alternative) I am quite fond of them..made in the US no less. Would love to have the sets, but I use them so infrequently I just buy singles as I need them..

 

Okay guys. Got the install done.
When bleeding, the clutch never returned up. I always had to pull it. Should it be bled to a point that it returns up after closing the bleed port?

Ex
-push clutch
-open port (sqirtttttt)
-close port
- release clutch <- this is where it stays on the ground.

Every cycle full fluid squirts through, and the clutch works and feels great. (Took it on a safe test ride)

however I am not sure if I should be bleeding till the clutch returns up once the port is sealed.