MT Accumulator Delete Mod (ADM) and BS Thread

silicone spray lubricant and channel locks has always worked for me

 

Okay, make sure you lift your truck by the frame, that way your axle can drop down for more space. Then you have to twist and rotate the stupid thing. Or just cut the pipe.

Exhaust hangers are easy. Lubricate the hanger and hook. I use silicone spray, but a penetrant will work as well. The use channel locks to push the knob of the hook through the hanger.

 

Thanks for advice

Will keep that in mind.

 

Like this...

 

Thank you man!

Didnt realize there isnt much room to get it out, ill take a better look tomorrow.

 

Beauty, thx.

 

It’s tight against the ground.

 

I bought the double female connector and an hour an a half hour of undoing bolts in places my hands barely fit and it’s done. So far no leaks, clutch actually feels like a real clutch. Minor burns on my hands and wrist from the exhaust from buttoning everything up after a test drive trying to beat darkness.

 

Just finished my modulator delete last night. Thanks to all the tips and pictures in this thread, it went surprisingly well. The clutch manners are so much better! Wife also likes the improvement.

Didn't have to bleed!

I have pretty good arsenal of tools including a brake line bender and double-flaring tool. I used my needle-nose vise-grips with the jaws protected with 3/8" pushloc hose to pinch the hose going into the master cyl. When I disconnected the lines, I didn't get maybe 4 drops brake fluid total and nothing out of the slave cyl (don't crack the bleed port!). I used comb wrenches as suggested and didn't have to take the D/L or exh support bracket off. I bought the same parts illustrated on pg 56 of this thread plus a 1/2" adel clamp around the brass union body (also illustrated somewhere in this thread). I removed the modulator off it's bracket and then re-installed the bracket. This made perfect alignment to use one of the empty 4 holes to fasten the adel clamp. You can use one of the 4 left-over modulator bolts and a 6mm nut. Hint - use a small piece of electrical tape on your open-end wrench to hold the nut in place while turning the bolt (it's tight up in there!).



Before I attached the tube to the slave, I placed a rag on the ground and cracked the vice grips for just 10 seconds and a peek underneath confirmed fluid dripping out. This charged the length of replacement line. Connect the tube to the slave, removed the vise grips, and have the wife pump the clutch 10 times to check for leaks. Then buttoned on the shield.

 

Little late to the party here but a guy in this thread had an adm kit that he didn't want that I bought off him a couple months ago. Today I finally got around to installing it and gawd damn. One of the things I hated about this truck was the 2-3 "jerks" in would get coming off a dead stop in 1st as the clutch was trying to catch up to the flywheel. All gone now. Also, every shift I would have to pause my left foot about 2/3 of the way out of the clutch stroke for a smooth shift. All fixed. One trip to harbor freight for a 10mm line wrench and some flex head ratchet wrenches that I just wanted and it only took me maybe an hour. This shit's awesome.

 

Now you just need to tune it and it’ll be perfect!

 

DO ETTTT

 

Fixed that pupporoni for you.

 

2nd gear pulls are super fun

 

I’d need bigger tires before i did that lol

 

Just need that quarantine check! Although I've already mentally spent it 26x over.

 

Finished off with a thick coat of Cosmoline for rust prevention.

 

Looking good, esp way up there with the weather.

 

Rusty/seized brake line fittings have to be one of my biggest pet peeves. Even in ideal conditions they are so easy to round off. I remember the times when my stomach has dropped trying to undo fittings to the rear wheel cylinders...the fitting starts to spin then spins the whole line with it because it’s seized. Never again. haha

I know the Cosmoline looks messy in the photo (still wet), but it dries waxy and is remarkably clean. I don’t think I had any of the “dried” stuff transfer onto my gloves before I re sprayed everything.

Thanks @tonered and everyone else who contributed to the info in this thread! (Ie part numbers etc)