my 2004 DC supercharger build

hello all.

i have recently aquired a new trd supercharger for my 2004 DC V6 auto 4x4 tacoma.

i wanted to start this thread to clear up some questions that i have about the supercharger and also document my complete build and tuning process so if anyone else wants to install a supercharger and tune themselves in the future the can have something to reference.

anyway i will start with questions about gauges.

1. what is the best boost gauge to get for the supercharger setup?

2. i have a scangauge 2 and i just setup the code to read AFR. will this be sufficient for tuning or do i need a standalone afr gauge also?

if anyone wants to know the code for afr on SG2
TXD 686AF10124
RXF 04410524
RXD 2808
MTH 05B900800000

afr seems to be working i get 14.5-14.9 at idle and it goes up to 16-17 at WOT. is that correct readings?

 

can anyone post any pictures of their boost and AFR gauge setups? anyone with double pillat that has a really clean factory look?

 

I really like the TRD boost gauge since it keeps the factory look. That being said, I'm not running any external gauges but use the Torque app on my Android phone via a Bluetooth ODB2 plug to keep an eye on it whenever I make changes. It's not ideal, but it works pretty well. I've been daily driving and wheeling the truck with the 2.1 pulley, 7th injector kit, and O2 simulator for roughly 24k miles.

 

On stock pulley you don't really need anything else but premium fuel. If you go with a smaller pulley, you'll want to drop a heat range in spark plug (think bkr6e copper core single electrode, cheap). You'll also want to reference your FPR to a boost only source. You'll have to google that, but it's extremely easy. I believe the 2nd gen SC came with a port that allows for this. 16-17 AFR at WOT isn't great man. not sure how much boost you're pushing or what pulley but that isn't sustainable. Even my turbo setup was good for 4-5 psi at 12.5 AFR on stock computer and injectors. You could get by with a cheap meth injection kit and spray blue -20 windshield washer fluid and pick up some HP and keep your engine more safe.

 

I have the PLX boost and AFR sensor modules, with the multi-gauge adapter to run them on my phone. No gauges or pods to mount, keeps the stock look.

The SG will not read the range of values you are interested in, and the refresh rate is too slow. When you are boosting in closed loop, the 7th injector controller is tricking the ECU into thinking that it is still at stoichiometry (14.7:1 AFR). You need a separate sensor to give you actual readings.

16-17 AFR is too lean. You will damage your motor if you run it like that. Have you installed an upgraded fuel pump?

Edit: just realized you didn't say if you had a 7th injector or not. Do you have any fuel mods?

 

What tune are you using?

 

He is a 1st gen. No tune, piggybacks only.

 

16-17 is way too lean for being in boost. You want to drop below the idle afr 14.7 in boost not above it. You're running minimum 91 octane right? Might have to invest in the 7th injector kit or a methanol injection kit. Do you hear any pinging/rattling when in boost?

I had bad lean pinging issues and had to install the URD 7th injector on mine.

 

Ok thanks for all the input guys.

i have not installed the supercharger yet (still on the shelf in the room). I started this thread to help me through my build/tune process and this is just the start.

I am currently still stock motor (no supercharger) and i am taking AFR readings off of my Scangauge 2. I have only K&N intake system. I just recently setup the codes on X-gauge to read AFR and those readings are what i got off the scangauge with stock motor and K&N intake.

I will do more driving today and post more numbers but yesterday thats what i got. 14-15 at idle/cruise but when i got to WOT (only for a second or 2) it went up to 16-17.5 range.

everything seems to be running perfectly. no overheating issues or codes off the SG2.

 

thanks again everyone for the input. as of right now i have no boost and and see those readings with just the K&N intake.

 

for now i do plan on running the stock pulley but i am at sea level and hear that i still need the 7th injector.

anyone at sea level with stock pulley and no other mods than premuim gas? any problems?

 

Ah okay, I'm not sure what normal N/A afr numbers should be for WOT but if those were your boost numbers it would not be good. I'd wait and see how it performs after installing the supercharger and see what additional fuel modifications you may or may not need. Some stock 3.4s love boost and others not so much. Mine didn't like it very much and I was on the stock pulley as well, had to install the 7th to get rid of pinging. Make sure you put 2 step cooler spark plugs in when you do the install

 

OK i was under the impression that i wanted "same as stock" numbers after insalling the supercharger, but i now see that you want "richer than stock" numbers with the supercharger installed to compensate for the extra air/boost that the supercharger produces.

in that case i guess that i dont have to worry about the 16-17 AFR during WOT for the stock setup as when i supercharge i will not want stock numbers anyway.

but if i am already running that lean with the stock setup how will that get "richer" by just installiing the supercharger? wont that number just get worse (more lean) if i add the supercharger. or better yet after i install the supercharger (stock pulley) how can i compensate for that high AFR number without any fuel mods?

another question.

if i just run the stock pulley and no 7th injector can i rely on the SG2 AFR readings if im going with meth injection only?
I know that the 7th injector can trick the ecu to think its running at the 14.7 stock range and adjust fuel anyway so with the SG2 it will not pick up "correct" readings as the 7th injector is tricking the ecu to think that its at 14.7ish anyway (so SG2 will only see 14.7 ish comming from the ecu). But if i am just running stock pulley with meth injection will the SG2 give acceptable AFR readings or is a standalone unit required?

 

Standalone wideband O2 sensor is highly recommended, to give you accurate, realtime data. Some can even do data logging.

I never saw AFR of 16-17 when mine was N/A, that may be a bit concerning.

 

Meth injection should take care of any lean issues but I have read that the 7th is better if your close to sea level. Of course if you have the coin to run both that'd be even more ideal. The meth setup does a better job of cooling the supercharger as well.

 

@TashcomerTexas

 

ok so after riding around for a few miles today i have afr of 14-15 while in closed loop but when i stomp the gas and go WOT it climbs right to 16-17 afr. not sure how i can fix this.

once i let off can go back to cruise it goes back to normal mid 14's.

not sure if this is normal but thats what im getting with the stock setup.

my AFR on the scangauge seems to be working and updates itself pretty much every second so i notice varying numbers while changing throttle positions but always remains between 14-15 in closed loop.

anyway i've read somewhere that you don't need the AFR gauge to tune the 7th injector kit in closed loop. i read that "The URD unit tricks my ECU to believe the AFR is 14.7 but it's actually adding fuel by skewing the MAF signal.

i already have a trd boost gauge and dont want to have to run a standalone AFR (dont want to have to weld on to the exhaust). if i purchase the 7th injector kit is a AFR gauge a must or will the tuning software that is included with the kit be suffucient to monitor things and get them in a "safer" zone.

thanks again for the input

 

Again, the 7th injector kit "should" tune the SC to where you want it, but the scangauge will not give you an accurate enough readout of what your actual AFR is as you go from open to closed loop, thus the need for a standalone wideband sensor. The tune that the 7th injector controller comes with doesn't monitor anything, it is a set of parameters that may or may not be correct for your truck, elevation, etc. The kit also comes with a larger fuel pump, which is a huge benefit, as well as colder spark plugs which you'll want as well.

Even if you don't add any fuel mods, which works for some people, or a methanol injection system, or whatever, you'll still want to monitor AFR as accurately as possible.

 

Like a wise guy once mention: "Why boost, if you don't plan to do any fuel management"

If you're NA and running 17afr wot, that's trouble for the future. You're adding more air (SC) and not adding additional fuel, you tend to break stuff. Hope your pocket is heavy. Do it right the first time around. Spent the extra money, which will go the extra mile.

Happy boosting

 

Here are some links to what I have on mine.
Dual Gauge Pod
Boost/Vac Gauge
AFR Multi Gauge
Wideband O2
I also have a Scangauge 2 mounted under my radio using a THIS bracket.

There are a ton of options out there and the guys on here are dropping gold in the form of advice. Ultimately fuel mods are need to keep your truck running long and hard. No real way around it. Add/Creating more power is going to cost something, loss of life on motor or loss of $$$ keeping it safe. Anyone who's been SC'ed can agree, you can tell yourself you'll take it easy but it's just too much fun to open her up. lol.

Skim some of the mods URD makes, tons of info on their website and it'll give you more realistic view on what we're all talking about. Different fuel mod packages for different applications.