My 2JZ Taco Build

I don't want to use the whole gm transmissions.

The ar5 front retainer and throw out bearing bolts onto a r150f to let you use a hydraulic throw out bearing with a push clutch on the r150f. I don't want to use the ar5.

I am probably going to use the r155f from a newer Tacoma 4cyl most likely so I can go awd and use the short bell housing.

I know all about those threads I was a moderator on clublexus

On the engine note, the pistons seem to be alright for the most part as the oil drained out pretty slowly over several days and the 2 cylinders with good numbers were mostly like the other ones so I think they are all fine for the most part.

Need to finish cleaning up the cylinder head and valves and put it back together. I would have been done but needed to work on the audi some since I was driving it around but will be done with that soon.

 

Yeah, I was eyeing that hydraulic throwout too haha. IIRC the R155 input shaft is 1/4" longer than the R154. The 3rd Gen 2TR got R156, double syncro first

 

But it's 4.31:1

 

To answer your question on the doubler. It is an indirect solution to the problem because the doubler is based off the front housing of the gear driven transfer case from the 70's and 80's (R1A??). To to mate to the taco box requires an adapter plate no matter which gen it is from, and although i have a pre 96 R150 the tail housing from the donor 4-runner does not match the 6 bolt rectangular pattern so either housing i use will require two adapter plates to get a doubler infront of the transfer case. at this stage its just an idea i am toying with and it does shift even more weight to the rear of the truck.

Your full time hybrid case sounds cool and is an awesome tweak but wouldnt help much with me keeping the front Manual hubs.

05Taco4x4 your 05+ manual hub conversion is awesome, down the road i will need to get in contact with you over that for another project.... but i have too many going on already to start scheming on another...

 

Thanks for the answers, that makes sense on the box but I'm looking more for traction than crawling right now.
I thought the r155f and r156f on the 4 cylinder used the short input shaft, but I don't have one to know for sure yet. Either way I'll get the trans and then the right stuff after I measure it.

 

i know the 2TR 4CYL uses a short input shaft because that is the bell housing i am running to mate the R150F to the 3RZ the bell housing part number for that thru toyota is 31111-26073 and it is the shorter bell housing and uses the push style clutch set up. All my 3RZ w59 clutch set up is still in the truck with the r150 backing it.

 

Input shafts lengths:

Pre 1995 R150\R151 = 6.5"
1996 up Toyota R series = 7.5"
AX15 = 7.875"
87-92 Turbo Supra R154 = 7.25"
AR5 = 8.2"
MA5 = 8.2"
NV3550 = 7.875"
NV1500 = 8.6"
AX5 = 7.5"
Toyota W series = 6.5"
Toyota G series = 6.5"

 

The Jeep/Dodge AX15 5-speed, the Jeep NV3550 5-speed, the Jeep NV1500, the Toyota R150F, R151F & R155F, the 87-92 Toyota Supra Turbo R154, the Isuzu AR5 and the Pontiac Solstice\Saturn Sky\Chevy Colorado\ GMC Canyon MA5 5-speeds all share the same case to bellhousing bolt pattern (Large Pattern).

ALL Toyota R150's and R151's built before 1996 are SHORT SHAFT\SHORT BELL.
All AX15's, AR5's, MA5's, NV3550's, R154's and Toyota R150's (built after 1996) are LONG SHAFT\LONG BELL.

Front bearing covers are interchangeable between the Toyota R series, AX15, MA5, and AR5. NV3550, AX5 and W series are not interchangeable.

 

Hows the Engine build up coming along?

 

I hit a road bump (literally) with my audi, it had the 4 cyl lowering springs on it from before the engine swap and I slammed it on a dip and cracked the oil pan...
So had to take time from the taco project and fix the audi, but its back on the road with the H&R v8 lowering springs and new oil pan. Also got an aluminum skid plate for it but haven't gotten to that.

I got the valves cleaned up as much as I could and back in the non vvti cylinder head last night, with any luck I will have it back on the engine in a few nights and will try another leak down test.
There was def some carbon buildup on the valve seats and valves, so I think that was the culprit on this head at least.
If that doesn't work I might just go for a v8 swap or find a cylinder head from a running engine to use that I can test in person... I almost bought 1JZ vvti last week thinking I could just drop that top end on my block but want to see what happens with this first.

 

Nice a build up a 1.5JZ that would be pretty sweet though does that change compression with the head from the 1JZ?

 

Good question, I am not really sure haven't spec'd out a 1jz vvti head but my guess would be it would be close compression wise.

I hurt my foot 2 days ago but am going to see if I can hobble around and get this thing bolted together in the evening

 

So I got the non vvti head back on, and it seems like the valves are seating alot better now so I think its good to go ahead now.
Will start slowly putting it back together.

 

Nice, keep us posted. Mine is held for frame work so i can start freely mocking up the drive-line. I wont blame it on the weather though its hard to find motivation in 110+

 

Whats the latest with your build? Are you running into problems with the oil pan clearance? I finished up the tweaks i was doing with front cross members and went to mock the driveline in place and found that the IS300 front sump is a touch wide at the front corners.... so before i go cutting and modifying more stuff i may as well see if its just because of my tweaks or if i just over looked this in planning.

 

I haven't gotten that far yet, project is a bit stalled at the moment but going to be getting there in a few months hopefully.
What mounts are you using? the cx racing ones I got have slots so you can move it forward/back/up/down a little bit. Or is it still making contact after adjustment?

As far as I know the IS/GS pan should be the one to use which is front/mid sump, and is the one I have on my motor right now.
If it is just the black lower pan that is making contact, you can probably dimple it in the corners a little if needed, the oil pickup is in the center so as long as you don't dent that it should be fine.

 

I am fabricating my own motor mounts but i have been using the transmission mount as a general idea of where i need to be, though thinking about it i need to verify a few measurements from the trans crossmember to the firewall on the cab and make sure i am not getting myself sideways here...

 

That's probably a good starting point but I wouldn't be surprised if the trans mount needs to move back a little bit. I would fit the engine first as far back to the firewall as you can get it, with the oil pan in the right spot and work from there.

 

Hey TW, it has been a little while and I have gotten most of the 2jz vvti back together.

Since I 5spd swapped the car over winter and got all the suspension and steering upgraded, I have been enjoying the taco and not sure if I should still engine swap it.
I keep going back and forth, so I guess I need some motivation... what do you guys think?

Should I continue and swap and see if a tacoma can handle 400-600hp (And possibly roll myself off the road lol)...
Or do I just leave it with the current engine and do more "truck stuff"

 

Do the swap! Please do the swap!