My 3rd gen install

I'm getting close to finishing what started a few weeks ago. I've been planning on upgrading my non-JBL Entune system since I bought the truck. I used to install for a living back in the 90's and even competed on the IASCA circuit for a few years. The system in my Tacoma is nothing special, just a simple system for an older guy that enjoys a nice system in his vehicle. With that said, the focus of this thread is to maybe pass on some tips and details that may help others with their install.

I already had a lot of the equipment that I used in this install. I knew I wanted to keep the factory head unit because of the functionality with the gauge cluster screen and the fact that I have a lifetime subscription to XM but I'm unable to transfer it to anything else at this point (they give you 3 transfers). For this reason I chose the JL Audio FIX 86 processor to handle the level processing. Its relatively new and replaces the Cleansweep which I really liked in one of my previous cars. Other than that, the only thing I had to buy was some sound deadening and wiring.

All of the speakers are Alpine from the Type R series. I believe its first gen Type R from 10 to 15 years ago if memory serves me right. The 6x9's were used in a previous install, otherwise everything else is new in the box. I'm torn on whether to use the two Alpine 10's or go with a single JL Audio 10. I'll figure that out when I get to laying out the back end for the box and amp rack. The amp is an Alpine MRD-F752 5 channel Class T amp. 75x4 +250x1 for the sub. THis amp has been in numerous systems and is a workhorse, one of the best amps I've ever owned.



On to the first step, sound deadening. I picked up 2 packs total from the group buy put on by @manethon earlier this spring. I used this in conjunction with some Raam mat and ensolite that I already had laying around. I used the Raam mat on the outer door skins and the Shok product everywhere else. The two products are very similar but I prefer the Shok product because it seems to stick better and is a little more pliable.




I covered the upper portion of the rear wall including the vents with acoustic carpet. That way when the box is finished and covered in the same material, it should blend in well.



Door progression:



Finished front door:



With the sound deadening finished and the doors buttoned up, I pulled the head unit to work on wiring and mount the controller for the FIX 86. Like others here, I used speed wire and the Metra harnesses to avoid cutting any factory wires. I bought a blank switch panel from the dealer and used that to mount the master volume/sub control. As you can see, it was a tight fit with the knob and the status LED.




My truck was pretty well optioned so there were no available openings in the switch panel below the HVAC controls. I never liked the fact that the USB access for the radio was out in the open. With my Ipod connected, I was always dealing with wires visible and getting in the way. I bought a USB extension from Amazon and installed it in the glovebox. This simply plugs in to the factory USB port which I now have hiding behind the dash. This frees up a spot for the volume control and allows me to hide my Ipod while connected to the Entune head unit. Win!

USB Mount Cable - Rerii 1M 3 Feet USB and 3.5mm Aux Extention Mount, Flush, Dash, Panel Mount Cable for Car, Boat, Motorcycle

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VAIEAUM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1




And while I was at it, I added another USB charging outlet to the back of the center console.




As mentioned, I 'm using speakers that I already had. The front 6x9's are technically component speakers as they have an external crossover mounted in the door.



For the rear doors, I mounted the 5.25 mid and moved the tweeters all the way up to the dash location. I ran all new wire into the doors so this wasn't a big deal. I have my crossovers located in the front kickpanel. It works well, the mids in the rear doors are just fill, they add a little depth to the sound. The tweeters up on the dash bring the stage up and I can just use the fader to control how bright they are. I did set the tweeter to -6db on the crossover just to tone it down a bit.




I wrapped the crossover in some synthetic chamois material to eliminate any rattles. This also allows the crossover to fit snugly in the void behind the factory kick panels.




The tweeters were mounted in the dash with some backstrap I bent to match the factory mounts.




That's where I'm at for now. I did splice in the speedwire to the new speaker wire temporarily until I can get the amp and sub in. It puts the factory system to shame already and its motivated me to get it done asap. Maybe next weekend...

 

Very impressive install, the way you did the door looks really nice. Do you feel the sound deadening was worth it? I keep debating if I want to do some sound deadening or not....

I too want to relocate or add a USB port into the center console box like you added to the glove box. Did you ever look into the idea of keeping the stock USB port as is and adding another one that taps off of the stock one? I would think it would be possible but haven't run across anybody that has done it or enough info about the stock plug to figure it out.

Also did you remove the entire plastic piece that the USB mounts in? If so how did you get it loose?

Again, very impressive install. Keep sharing the details as you continue I want to see it all.

 

Thanks, sound deadening when done correctly is definitely worth it, even my wife was impressed.

I did keep the stock port and just tied into it, exactly as you mentioned. I didn't modify the port at all, I simply pulled it from the switch panel, relocated it behind the dash, and plugged in the extension.

I did not remove the switch panel, I was able to get access by pulling the radio and the HVAC panel below it. Then it was a matter of just popping the USB port out, unplug it, pull the wire back inside the dash, and plug the port back in. From there, I mounted the new port in the glove compartment and plugged the new port into the stock port as seen in the pictures.

 

Damn, I was really hoping you would say the sound deadening made the truck vear to the right whenever Aerosmith played on the radio..... I don't want to install deadening but I think I might regret it if I don't.

I also just thought about the second USB charging outlet you installed in the center console back side. What did you hook that up to?

 

I tied it into the constant power for the radio so that I can charge when the truck is off.

 

Good stuff. You're a freakin' artist with that deadener. Nice job on the rear carpet too. Subbed for the rest.

 

Haha, thanks. That's just my OCD showing a little.

Started the box last night. Initially I planned on going with the 2 Alpine 10's but due to the size of the amp, I'm going to use a single JL 10w0v3.

 

And that's all for today. I'll try and finish this weekend.

 

Sound deadener is definitely worth it. I first installed the speakers without it for a couple of weeks. It sounded great, but I knew it could be better. I bought a 2 door kit from Best Buy and used it for all 4 doors. I also removed the plastic nuts that the factory speakers were bolted into and put a nylon lock nut on the back of each of the bolts for the speaker mounts and torqued them down snugly. It was absolutely worth the trouble.

Here's the kit I bought. I did a fair amount around all 4 door speakers.
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/ballist...lack/8685029.p?id=1219359707391&skuId=8685029

 

I didn't get to spend as much time as I would have liked this past weekend but I did make a little progress. Just a few more details and I'll get it in the truck.

 

that is very impressive! great skills!

 

Moving at a snail's pace. I bought a scrap piece of matte black laminate from a local supplier to use for the amp rack. Glued it up and trimmed it up with the router. I added a couple of grommets for wiring to pass through. I also sealed the inside of the enclosure with some undercoating.

I need to notch out the front of the box to accommodate the center seatbelt and then I have a little more router work on the edges and then carpet this thing and get it in the truck.

 

A final test fit before carpet revealed that the enclosure is a little closer to the seats than I would like. To alleviate, I decided to notch the box on the backside to clear the metal tabs along the bottom of the back wall. The wife wasn't home so I grabbed a nice shade of lipstick from a bin that had hundreds so hopefully she doesn't notice it missing...lol. I marked the back wall and then put the box in to get the location of the tabs. I used the router to carve out 3/8" of material and the box sits a little tighter now, I gained a little less than 1/4" total.







Next up is to rabbit the speaker opening to get the sub to sit flush with the face of the box. I already made the template, I just ran out of time. I'm off to Vegas for the weekend so I won't get a chance to work on it until mid next week.

 

How much was the box and how is it was it to build

 

$29 for a sheet of MDF at lowes. If you have access to a table saw, it's not tough at all.

 

Not bad i always wanted to do my own box

 

I never thought about the lipstick idea to transfer marks before. Good idea.

 

So back on track this afternoon. I broke out the router again and rabbit bit. In order to gain a little more space between the sub and the rear seat, I used the rabbit bit and a template to flush the sub into the face of the box.



When doing this after the sub box is built, you really need beef up the mounting points where you screw the sub to the box. As you can see there is only about a quarter inch of wood for the screw to bite which in my opinion, isn't enough. To correct this, I cut some blocks of wood to place behind the mounting points, drilled some holes to line up with the existing mounting holes, and glued them in place.





I also put a round over bit in the router and went at all the edges on the box. This small detail goes a long way in making the box look better and applying the carpet a little easier in my opinion.

 

From there I started to finish the amp rack. As mentioned, I used a matte black laminate for the face of the rack. I also chose to use the laminate on the bottom to make it easier to vacuum up the hair from my dog who rides in the backseat. For the sides, I used black acoustic carpet which is what the rest of the box will be covered in.





And with the face board installed.



With the board removed, you'll notice I created channels to help with the wire routing but also to give a firm foundation to mount the 22lb amp. These channels are on the far right and left and painted in black so that with the face board in place, you won't notice the wood thru the grommets for the wiring. I also paint any seam/joint or corner so the when it comes time to carpet or glue laminate down, you won't see or notice the wood behind it.



Where the wires come through.



And I decided to install a blue led strip because... why not!



And the finished product, minus the gear, trimmed out in black carpet.









More tomorrow...

 

Spent some time this afternoon and got it in the truck. It's a very snug fit but I decided to secure it anyway. I ran three #14 screws through the box into the channel that runs across the back wall of the truck. If you do this, be very careful when picking your screws. Too long and you'll go through the back wall.







And here you get a good look at the sub sitting flush with the face of the box.



Now to finish the wiring under the rear seat, hopefully Monday.