my experience changing rear wheel bearing

What the purpose of that. can't you just position the ring by itself were the seal rides?

 

Marlin once fooled around with a reducing bushing of sorts that would allow seal placement in an ABS housing to mimic a non ABS housing. I don't think they were ever produced in bulk for sale. This would allow the use of the "non ABS only" chromo shafts in ABS tubes without functioning ABS.


If one fabs a press adapter from an old housing try and find one with ABS. The larger/deeper hole will allow pressing off the 2 retainers, the ABS ring and the bearing in one shot.

 

I see now. The Removing tool I made was for a non abs axle. But I made a clam shell looking deal that just catches the abs ring. It bolts to the flange on the tool I made.

 

yes, the non abs housings had seals that did not push in as far, as the axle shafts shoulder was much shorter. It is my understanding that on the non-abs housings, the seal is near flush with the outside mating surface of the axle housing. On abs axle housings, the seal is in much further. Ideally a machinist would need quality measurements of both an abs, and non abs axle housing, and maybe? the seals. I would easily pay fora set of those machined rings. If I could just buy them, it would be such an easy process. Especially now after doing bearings once or twice. I could just freeze em, pound them in, change axle shafts (You can buy the retainer rings individually from toyo btw), and make it an afternoon project.

 

Yes the none ABS seal sits almost flush with the end of the axle tube.

 

Doesn't need to be anything fancy to hold the shaft in a press. I rigged this up and it worked great.

 

I might be in luck, a friend said he had one for a 96 toyota, maybe it will fit my 2000...

 

I would hope so. They are the same axle. Only difference could be ABS, if he didnt have ABS and made his tool with tight tolerances, it may not be able to fit all the way down on your ABS axle, but I would imagine it will be fine.

 

Some dont have abs correct?

 

Correct. Only difference on the shaft itself, had a slightly wider collar for the tone ring to sit.

 

so it looks like it may be sooner than later I will be tackling this, So you press the axle out of the housing and do you press it back on the axle or just in the housing? Sorry if this is obvious I havent messes with this before.

 

you remove the axle shaft and brake backing plate as one assembly. The press comes into play when you want to remove the shaft from the backing plate.

 

Has anybody had trouble with the outer dust seal causing a squealing noise at low speeds after changing the bearing/seals? I am getting ready to change the bearings on another axle and am trying to figure out what I can do differently to prevent it

 

The outer dust shield, the o-ring that goes over the axle housing and seals to the brake backing plate?

 

Im pretty sure its this oil seal that is causing the squeal. Its the larger stiff seal that pops into the bearing case. Ive considered giving it a good coat of grease when I put it together but am concerned about putting much on it because if the grease ever gets out then it will be in the drum brake assembly. Just curious if anybody else has had this issue or had any ideas to fix it

 

... Thread resurrection...

Anyone who has done this a number of times, or once. How loose where your bearings in the bearing cups? ( the part that holds the outer race, and the studs hold the backing plate onto it.

I'm doing a junkyard axle dance, one of my bearing cups is far too loose, the bearing can be pushed out by hand. But on the other two bearing cups there is not very much tension holding the outer race, and I'm wondering if they are shot as well?

 

The bearing sits in the outer bearing relatively loosely. That is to say, it doesn't require a press to remove or insert it, usually. A little tapping with a hammer is how I'd describe the fit.

Here's my steps for removal/installation, from my write-up:
Step-by-Step Replacing Rear Axle Seal & Bearing w/ABS (1st gen Tacoma or 3rd gen 4Runner)

...

Remove Axle Bearing from Brake Drum

1. Set brake drum on workbench with axle bearing on bottom. Note: hang the bell crank over the side of the workbench so it does not cause the drum to be wobbly when set down.
2. Remove the dust seal using a set of pliers by simply pulling it up towards you.
3. Place the press sleeve that comes with the Axle Bearing Puller, with the long side of the cylinder down, on the inner race of the bearing.
4. Place a steel plate on top of the press sleeve to evenly distribute the force around the edge of the sleeve.
5. Hit the center of the steel plate with a hammer to push the bearing out the back of the brake drum. Note: this will take almost no pressure - do not hammer hard.
6. Clean out the inner bore of the bearing case.

...

Install New Axle Bearing and Dust Shield in Brake Drum

1. Smear a bit of grease inside the clean bore where the bearing will sit.
2. Smear a bit of grease on the outer race of the new bearing.
3. At the press, prepare to press the bearing into the brake drum with the bore up under the press. Note: if using the Harbor Freight press, place the lower bar at the 3rd hole, then stack a press plate, the press sleeve that comes with the Axle Bearing Puller, and the 4”x4” steel plate under the bottom of the brake drum.
4. Set the bearing on top of the bore and ensure that it is as flat/even as possible.
5. Place the 3” ABS cleanout, with cap on the outer race of the bearing, and ensure the cap is centered under the press.
6. Slowly (using only finger pressure) apply pressure to the ABS cleanout to fully seat/press the bearing into the bore. Note: the bearing should go in relatively easily; you may not even need the press. Watch the ABS cleanout to ensure that no pressure is building up, and to ensure that the bearing is going in straight.
7. Remove the brake drum from the press and set it on the workbench, bearing side down.
8. Smear a bit of grease inside the bore where the dust shield will sit.
9. Insert the dust shield (by hand, no tools needed).
10. Smear a bit of grease on the inside of the dust shield, since it will ride on the axle once installed.

 

Hey guys, Im getting a squeaking sound coming from under the truck when I accelerate from a stop and was wondering if these bearings could be the culprit. The squeaking goes away after I get up to about 30mph. I replaced 2 Ujoints in the rear axle shaft and the carrier bearing in November so I'm guessing one of those is the issue but don't want to rule anything out.

 

Wheel bearings usually don’t squeak. You could check them for play by lifting the truck and shaking the wheel from 12 to 6 and 9 to 3 o'clock but these bearings won’t necessarily show wear in that manner. Removing the axle shafts would be the primary way to check the bearings for wear. What carrier bearing did you use as a replacement - cheap or spicer / oem?

 

did a dorman, probably the issue eh?