my first attempt at rust repair

... curious about what kind of lift setup you are using in your garage?

 

Right, I was reading about Noxudol being a good option (from not washing off standpoint) it is waxed based and self healing from my understanding what Toyota spec'd out for the frame recall treatments (although, prep is of course key to anything and it won't fix stuff that might already be damaged.)

just found this thread which might be worth checking out (reading through it now myself)
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/rust-prevention-treatment-consolidation-thread.355928/

I'm renting a couple bays at a mechanic with a two post lift in one. If I were to be trying this at my house I'd be doing this in the driveway which I think would be the opposite.

 

this pic here of yours is probably the area i need to look at and what is lurking behind my fender liners way up and under the arch, i did not have any clue how that is all put together

going to have to get a mirror & light and and try to get a glance up under in there when the weather gets warmer
maybe it has not progressed very far but IDK yet

 

While you have the bed off it's the right time to give that frame proper protection. And it will be much easier for you to do too, access wise.

Slather it up with Fluid Film or the like.

Good job in taking on the metal work. I'd have just looked for a healthy bed to swap on.

 

Yup... rust removal and frame prep with fluid film/etc is the plan while things are apart.
I looked briefly for a decent bed, but tough to find one in good shape up here. I decided it was a good opportunity to learn a new skill buy a couple new tools and if needed I can always look/buy a new(ish) bed later on.

 

For y’all on here welding up your beds and stuff, practice your beads before you go welding on your bed and stuff! Better beads = less body filler = less money spent.

 

Thanks. Good tip for those who haven't embarked down this path.

most of what I'm welding will be covered by fender flares so as you say, while my welds might have be better if I started on some practice stuff, learning to butt weld at different angles and various positions may or may not have been as easy to replicate. . . but I don't do this for a living. For me sometimes to make progress I have to dive right in.

Anyway sanded down the rusty spots and welded in some more patches on the other side last night.

 

Looks sorta like my repair on my fender but I used bondo because I’m out on a welder right now, looks decent thou for a first time bondo job thou.

I don’t have any pictures of the product at the end but I’ll tell you you can hardly notice, I don’t know if I’d even be able to tell if I clearcoated it!

Good luck thou! Keep in mind the better the wire you buy sometimes the better the welds come out.

Here’s what my go to on really thin square tubing/round tubing was when I was doing some side steps for my friend.

275 in/min wire speed

18.0 Volts

10 Ga Thickness

C25

Hotter the wire speed you go the more prone the wire is to penetrate the metal your welding on and leave you with a hole in your panel, but with a too slow wire speed you can also end up with welds that don’t fully penetrate your panel or metal. I’d try out lower then 275 maybe minimum 230 on the wire speed. For the volts try to travel within 17-18.5. This is just what I used to weld at on my Lincoln machine so I guess try it and see if it works for ya

 

Thanks for the settings and tips, I'll check to see what I'm using.

NYS salts the heck out of our roads (one of the reasons vehicles here rust out so bad) looks like your repair turned out decent, how is it holding up against winter in Montana?

 

Once completed you need to treat with an oil/waxed based coating on the inside and underneath, and top it up every year. I use Pro-Form (amber) wax based permanent rust proofing. Spray it F'n everywhere I do. inside doors and rockers, fneders U name it. Bought a fluid film spray gun kit with multiple extensions. Works well if ProForm wax is heated or on a baking hot day.

 

is the Pro-Form a different type of product than something like this?


https://www.eastwood.com/ew-brush-on-seam-sealer-quart.html

 

I did automotive restorations decades ago on collectors vehicles and not much has changed to this day as far as paint, sealers, primers and everything else. If you're doing welding of patch pnls with this microscopically thin sheet metal they are using on these newer vehicle you need a TIG welder or, if you're using a MIG welder the AMPS need to be turned way down. That reduces the blow through holes when you're welding this newer paper thin sheet metal. Kudos to you, the OP. With tips from your bodywork friend you're doing everything right. Patch PNLS were the way to go for that rust.

I might suggest a product that works wonders. It's called DP40. An epoxy, catalyzed sealer that you can coat with anything from Bondo to a metal body filler. It won't even chip if hit with a hammer once it cures. It's great for rust because it has Zinc Chromate in it. You can spray it or even brush it on. Once done doing the welding get all that black crap off with Dremel tools or whatever then apply the DP-40 which is an olive green. They make other colors of DP-40 but the green is the best. You can topcoat it with anything and it's works wonders for rust. Bondo, liquid metal paint anything will stick to it if you follow the directions..

DP-40 is made by PPG and it works so well that it has probably been illegalized in many states. If they sell it where you live, use it. If you're going to spray it on then use a very good respirator as it is extremely toxic and will coat you're lungs causing you possible months of health problems. Use it right with the proper equipment and you will be fine. You can apply it with a brush if you want though. Just don't reduce it too much or it will run onto the floor.

The DP-40 was developed for aircraft. 747's and stuff like that. It will adhere to any topcoat for up to 7 days as long as the surface isn't contaminated with grease, oil, WD40 , wax or anything else. After 7 days you need to "abrade" it with a red Scotchbrite pad. It will stop rust in it's tracks so any "holes" you have in you're welding job will not start rusting as long as they are clean from welding slag etc. Apply the DP over clean, bare metal as well as you can. Those little holes in the welding job might be a problem. That's why I mentioned the Dremel too.

I had a '73 Cadillac Coupe DeVille which was my only car up until 5 years ago when I got the Taco. I degreased the engine compartment, let it dry and then coated everything, including the very badly rusted battery box with black DP and when I got rid of the Caddy 18 years later there was no rust coming through on that battery box. I never even painted it which you should do. The Caddy was in the salt states throughout that 18 years. I don't know what primer you have used so far but once it's good and dry you can apply DP over it if it's dry through and "abraded with 320 grit sandpaper or a red Scothbrite pad thuroghly. Even if it's a lacquer primer. Which I certainly hope you haven't used on a rust job like this. It takes a lacquer around 6+ months to completely dry through at 70 degrees with low humidity.

When you're done, slather everything with Fluid Film and you be good to go for quite some time.

 

Seam Sealer is for sealing around windows. Welds where you have welded on a new panel. etc. It's not for any type of rust repair. Only for rust prevention for filling gaps. Around an air conditioner on an RV etc., etc. It's used to stop the ingress of water from rain, car washes etc. so water doesn't start causing rust problems between body panels or get past windows and cause leaks. I might add that no one makes better seam sealers than 3M.

 

Thanks for the tips! I'll check into seeing what the availability of DP40 might be in NYS, sounds pretty powerful and a bit dangerous just the way I like it

 

Holding up well except for the fact that I sanded too much in a small spot and the bondo split but other then that looks great haha

 

DP is good stuff. Real good. Don't stand around breathing the fumes from it either. I'm sure it's still the same. It requires an "induction period" of 30 minutes before you spray it. Mix it and get away from it. In NY? I'd be shocked if they still sold it. If they do though you'll be good to go. Make sure you use a respirator when you spray it. Survivar used to make a respirator with filters for "VOC's" I'm sure they still do. I think 3M bought Survivar. VC stands for "Volatile Organic Chemicals" which is what you are breathing standing over an open can of paint. If you can get a Survivor respirator with the proper filters use it when you are mixing as well. Are you going to get sick or do any damage to yourself mixing DP or any other paint a few times as a hobby and breathing the vapors? No. But it's a good idea to wear a respirator. Not using a respirator if you spray it? Yeah, that could cause problems just once with DP. Those that are painting for a living these days use a fresh air system which you don't need for hobby work.

 

Looks great, amazing work!

 

Since my last post I’ve done a ton but haven’t had a chance to upload the results … (life gets in the way)

However, short version:

- I completed the bed repair

o Forgot to drill the flare holes, color matched with the spray can that was supposed to match the paint color

o Paint color I got is a color mixed by napa – martin semour Crossfire brand, slightly lighter than the OEM (ah well) / doesn’t match where

- My gas cap cover hinge snapped I’ve replaced with a used one from ebay and … as noted above, the paint color doesn’t match and I haven’t painted it yet.

I'm gonna need a new sticker as I also put got the cap wrapped up




I'm going to need a new sticker

 

Well done, OP...hats off to you for having the guts to try this. Welding is something I won't touch, and also something that I wish I had experience with.

Looking forward to seeing the results of your work.