Nate's build

OhMylanta. This thing is just insane, kudos for a gorgeous build that is pretty low-profile. #Goals...


Cool name too.

 

Went with this one HERE. It's done a really good job so far. No moisture has made it to the tank. Not a HUGE deal since it's an aluminum tank and rust isn't an issue but to keep the moisture out of the regulator, air tools and tires. It is a bit pricy, but compared to a few others I tried, it is more sturdy. Tried one from Lowes and one from Harbor freight. Both were crap. Didn't seal right and cheaply made. The AccuAir one has a solid aluminum body and seems more sturdy. No worries about leaks between the glass or plastic cup of other designs or possibly breaking those cups from road debris.

From what I've seen, the double cabs have two vents on the lower, outside, back edges of the cab so sound coming in has to travel through more metal, seats and panels before making it to the cab. Access cab ones are right behind a thin piece of plastic

 

HAHA! Thanks Nate! I'm not really that active on here. Just to find info. I try to keep a low profile and draw the least amount of attention. Only reason this build thread exists is to return the favor to the TW community. I've gotten so much inspiration and learned so much from other builds here that it's only right to post my progress with the hopes of assisting others in their builds.

 

Ditto man! I wouldn't be where I am today without this thread. You're an inspiration to us all!

 

Thanks a bunch Nate!

 

Thanks for the shackle flip/shock relocation write up. I referred back to it constantly when I was installing mine. Thank u again for taking the time to document the install.

 

Like that air gage!

Think I've found yet another idea I'll be borrowing from you lol.

 

Any Time!

Glad to help! If I'm ever back visiting the Island I'll have to hit you guys up so you can show me some island wheeling,

There are a few versions of that Viair gauge. One at 160psi and like mine at 220. I'd say stick with the 220 even though my compressor only goes to 150. This past weekend the tank pressure climbed from 150 at colder sea level to about 170 which would have been above the other gauges reading. The pressure relief valve I have is set to 175.

Haha! Thanks man.

This past weekend was pretty epic at TDS. It's a pretty big event in SoCal. Mostly Jeeps but always a great time. I put a sticker on my truck that'll probably get me banned but I thought was funny for the occasion. I'll get it up later.

 

Updates on the awesome truck?

 

what a cool build, great work, great ideas, and good job on the fabrication.. bravo sir

 

Here are some random updates. Not much time these days so this'll be quick. Just random things here and there from what's been going on before one major update.

Got some RedLine hood struts. Never realized how much they come in handy till you need to open your hood at some extreme angles for whatever reason. For me it's getting to the winch box to connect remote. I'd recommend them to anyone.






I added some foam door sealer to the bottom side of crossbar to prevent some rattling of the solar panel making contact with bar.


Also got in some HD cross bars. They are a bit thicker than the normal bars so that required me to cut off some of the solar frame to fit. With the panel mounted under the bars, the thicker bars puts it closer to the roof. Without cutting it would make contact with the roof.




Also got to working on attaching connections to the roof rack lights to get them wired up. Went this route because it was cheap and can be unplugged if needed to remove rack.




Lights mounted with pig tails




Made small notches in the cross bars to tuck in wires


Shortened panel plugs to desired length


Window foam seal used under cross bar




Put edge trim on the cut panel edge then ran wires down drain channel and through window weather stripping. From there down and in through the bulkhead of the cab.


Then used a

Fastronix Weatherproof Pre Wired Sealed Connectors (4 Pin)

4 Pin Deutsch connector to wire up the roof rack lights






Aaaaand finally working. Wired independent for left and right.




Put the charge controller here


Random shots from the job site












Then I decided to do the SoCal Six Pack in 4 weeks so a few trips were made up to the mountains.






Where I backed into some branches



After a wheeling trip my 4x4 was acting up. Determined it was the front diff ADD actuator that was bad by checking the signal pinouts on the connector. I was in a bind because I had another wheeling trip coming up in a few days so it had to get done fast. Purchased the actuator assembly part number 41400-35033 from Toyota. This one replaces all older versions and is damn expensive.


After taking out the front ADD actuator and opening it up, it only turned out to be the two prongs on the motor. Added some solder to them and all was well. Further information can be found on this informative thread here.


Two positions for the ADD sleeve in differential




Cleaned everything back up and resealed with Toyota red/orange sealant part number 00295-01281. Then returned the new actuator.





Then took a trip up to Big Bear to have some fun in the snow. Only two tacos in the mix of all jeeps but still a good time.








Then went back up a few days later with a TacomaWorld group
















Then off to Johnson Valley for King of the Hammers. No photos during the entire trip. Was too busy having too much fun. Before the trip I did have to adjust the front bump stops a bit. Been meaning to do this for a while since my tires were chewing up the upper wheel well.
Combination of self clearance and hammer clearance






Added spacers from Wheeler's Offroad to the Superbumps


Better


Then after KOH. Luckily no damage!




This Air Zenith 80 amp relay was used to replace the 60amp one currently being used for the air compressor on the relay/fuse panel.


Then decided to turn in my man card and get some of these! Seat heaters will keep buns nice and toasty and they are a hit with the ladies.






From there I went at it and put these things in. No real clue what I was doing. Just tinkered and figured out how to take the seats apart and covers off.


Hog rings holding covers on. Just carefully slid out bar retaining it all on.




Place in desired location. Small cuts were made in the heating pad to get the metal rod through the hog rings and tucked into the seam.




bottom done


Now for the back




Wired the switches to rear panel on a "keyed" fuse block to only be on with ignition then ran to two empty slots in the center dash. They fit perfectly and look factory.





Also decided to add a little to the air system. Out in a shut off ball valve and air chuck prior to the air tank in case the tank got smashed and ruptured I could block off that path and still run lockers and fill tires ect.


Then got this Renogy in-line wattmeter to track solar performance


Shortly after KOH was TDS. Land of the many Jeeps.




Put on this sticker for the special occasion. It was funny seeing peoples reaction to it!


On the way home I noticed an unfamiliar sound from the drivetrain.....


More to follow soon. Again, feel free to let me know if you have any questions.

Nate

 

truck is looking damn good

 

Umpf
Looking awesome bud
Sorry to hear about the diff though...

 

Love your build. Nice update, Nate. Thanks.

 

I'm interested to hear what happened with the diff

 

Thanks guys! And that's not from the diff.... I'll try and get more up later on today.

 

Wait... On no!!

 

Always great to see updates on your truck, even if they're little ones! I hope that drivetrain issue doesn't put it down for too long....

 

Other random photos before next update