Need help clearing 35's

Put 35's on and I'm rubbing like hell at the cab. Cab mount chop has been done so it's not rubbing there. It's rubbing on the fender wall, and it'll also rub on the top of the fender full stuff. The tire is not stuffing into the wheel well but instead it'll rub on the plastic fender trim at the top.

Can anyone point out what needs to be done to move my wheel forward? And is there a way to help my tire stuff inwards more on uptravel?

I have SPC uppers and wheelers bumps. I don't think my SPC's are set correctly. What setting do you guys use? The ball joint can also move outwards and inwards. Where do I set that? If I move it inwards all the way will that help it clear the top of the fender?

 

The more inwards you go the more likely the ball joint will rub the coil at full droop.

Honestly with SPC's a you need to trial and error with stuff like big wheel fit.

To move it forward you want positive caster, usually 3.0+ for big wheels, this gets it further into the bumper where its easier to trim.

 

first start by posting pics of your lower control arm cams and the upper ball joint location. The lower control arm cams should be maxed to move the wheel as far forward as possible.


This helps a lot https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/ripcords-spruce-mica-build.552033/#post-17955771

 

Thanks man this is super helpful! Lemme go snap a few pics of where it's currently at. Pretty sure it's all screwed up. I want to try and get it as close as I can here at home before going in for another alignment.

 

Upper ball joint should be set to "E" or "F" position and the stock LCA cam bolts set to max caster (front cam all the way in, rear cams all the way out).

What exact tire size and wheel model are you running? This has a big influence on rubbing. Wider tire will rub more. Wheels with more negative offset will rub more.

 

See that's the thing. I keep reading polar opposite point of views on that. Some say to go postive caster to move it forward, others say to go the other way with it.

 

Good to know, thanks man! I've got 315/75r16's (BFG KO2's) on some SCS Ray 10's with a -12mm offset. I feel like this combo should be doable. There are plenty of guys with larger tires with -38mm offset wheels

Edit: Also, I know 315/75r16 isn't a true 35, but it sure is big enough to cause rubbing problems.

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/intro-to-fitting-35s-3-lifts.594309/

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...g-now-adding-long-travel-and-934-cv’s.626274/

Here ya go

 

You need your caster as far positive as possible. And trimming.

https://www.instagram.com/tv/COG3hq3HBHF/

 

Whats your setup? Tire and wheel specs?

There are two main factors in caster, firstly you want the lower cams to be positioned for maximum wheel space moving the wheel as forward as possible. Secondly, the upper caster adjustments should be set to allow open movement of the wheel during suspension cycle (this varies). Too much caster will have the wheel move further back on up travel which is likely the case here. SPCs allow for a lot of adjustability.

 

Gotcha. Sounds like I need to start with the lower cams and go from there. How about the camber slot on the top of the SPC arm? Should I mess around with that or leave that to an alignment shop?

Also, I'm the guy that was supposed to meet up with you at Rudy's last weekend. Think I passed you on the trail as I was headed out to meet John and the guys. Hacket was a blast! We should pick another day and hit up a trail when you get some more free time.

 

Yup lower cams will get you 90% there, If I recall you want tabs out in the front and in in the rear. Leave the camber for the alignment shop and set the SPCs to what you want initially. When my alignment was perfect I sat around 3.5 caster but everytime I wheel I throw my alignment so I stopped caring

Also, you missed out on some killer smoked brisket breakfast tacos. There were a lot of Tacos out there that day, we ran longwater and hacket in both directions. The last group I saw was on hacket with a group of 3 with a tan taco in front?

 

Out in the front, in in the rear, got it. I'm hitting up Moab soon so I'll be getting on this asap. And, these rocky mountains aren't exactly alignment friendly hah.

Hot damn some brisket tacos before a day of wheeling sounds like heaven. Might have to get those next time. I was in a tan taco and my brother was behind me in a silver 4th gen 4runner. We were headed down to the bottom of the gulch to meet up with John. Ended up having to pull my brother up 2 of the obstacles on Hacket and that big rock slab on longwater, which is right about the time he found out his next mod, a locker

Next time you gotta stay and camp with us. Nothing like doin a little night wheeling!

 

Like this. Then adjust your upper ball joint.

 

Moving the front cam will greatly affect toe, because the front cam is in the plane of the steering rack. If you adjust the lower cams, be sure to straighten out the toe with a fishing line setup before attempting to set the camber with the slot on the SPC arm. You can set camber fairly easily with a digital level against the wheel. Be sure to park on a level surface first.

 

Ok, so I set my LCA bolts like yours in the pic, which moved the wheel forward, but it also moved the wheel into the wheel well a bit. I then had to move the camber slot on the SPC UCA inwards because it was leaning way out at the top, and now after moving that upper camber adustment inwards I'm rubbing on the UCA at full lock. This is with the 'f' setting on the SPC.

Can someone with SPC uppers tell me what setting you used for the upper caster? How can I clear the UCA?

 

With a 315 tire you may need some significant offset wheels to keep it away from the UCA but it may give you clearance issues on the outside of the tire with the wheel well, etc. 315s are silly on a truck this size.

 

Yea, I've got some negative offset wheels that are known to work with this configuration. 315's might be kinda crazy but there are plenty of guys out there making this work. There's gotta be some tweaks I can make with these SPC's that'll get the clearance I need.

 

1. Set SPC upper ball joint to "E" or "F" position.
2. Adjust toe to 0 before camber, because incorrect toe will screw with your camber setting.
3. Set camber to 0 with the SPC slot.

 

Ok, I dunno what's going on but these settings do not even come close to working on my truck. I think its the LCA adjustment positions I was given that are screwing this up. Even with the SPC camber slot set all the way inward I can't get the tires to be straight up and down. But I couldn't run it there anyways because it rubs on my coilover and UCA. Tried both the E and F positions. Unless I'm reading the SPC chart wrong?

These pictures are all from the driver side.