Need help please, won't start, no spark, no fuel

2010 Tacoma SR5, 2.7 engine, 5 speed manual transmission with 95,000 miles. Just bought truck, always owned GM or Ford and this is my first toyota.

Truck runs fine, drive to work and at end of the day it will not start. Towed home. Truck has fuel, battery is good(12.8v), all fuses have continuity, swapped the c/opn relay with the horn relay and tried its relay in horn location, both are ok. Tried starter fluid in the throttle body still no start. Pulled plug, no spark, pulled another, still no spark. 12v at the plug at the coil. Pulled fuel lines at the engine, no fuel while it's being cranked. So I have no fuel no spark and my truck does not have the immobilizer system. What could it be? The crank sensor?
I have a digital voltmeter and am decent at trouble shooting if someone can point me in the right direction.

 

It could be the Crankshaft or Camshaft Sensor.
They both send signal to the ECM. The ECM sends signal to the coils.
It’s possible the ECM is the issue, but they aren’t really know to “go bad” very often.

Does the Engine Light come on at all when you turn the key to ON? (Not Acc)
It may come on and go back out in a couple of seconds. Watch for it to come on when you first turn it to ON.

Maybe someone with more experience on the 2.7 will help you out.
Hopefully you can get it figured out.

 

http://www.customtacos.com/tech.old...6toyewd/06toypdf/ewd/2006/tacoma/h/em01d4.pdf

@motacos2010 Did you check the fuses with a meter or did you just look at them? Use a meter.

I would think that the 20 amp EFI Fuse is blown as that would kill power to the EFI Relay which would not power the C/OPN Relay.
Or the EFI Relay could be defective.

I would also investigate the crank position sensor as I don't think the ECU provides fuel or spark until it see's that the engine is turning.

Get a OBD2 code reader to see any codes in the ECU.

The common denominator is the ECU.

 

Sift thru this group - look at the ones with "no spark or fuel" in the title - maybe something will pop up:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/search/9073224/?q=no+fuel+or+spark&o=date&c[title_only]=1

Hope you didn't buy a flooded truck.

 

Tnshooter, the check engine light never comes on at all. What does that mean? The owners manual says it should come on and then go off.

I removed the camshaft position sensor and it ohms out in the proper range.

Jimmy I used my meter and ohm'd out every fuse under the hood and under the dash. All are good. I also swapped the horn relay with the efi and it works in the horn location. And the horn relay in the efi location doesn't solve the problem. I just ordered the obd2 reader recommended by scotty Kilmer of YouTube, it will be here tommorow.

Lesterlugnut it has a clean carfax but this is my first toyota and I bought it used from a dodge Chrysler dealership it was a local trade on a ram. I've already had to fix the secondary air injection system(vacuum line was being pinched), replaced rear shocks, ran seafoam thru gas, crankcase, and in the brake booster, changed all fluids with synthetics including the entire drivetrain(used redline fluids), have some denso long life spark plugs arriving tommorow. But this problem has got me questioning my choice of a toyota, for the same price I could of got a newer ranger or Colorado.

I think the lack of the check engine light with the key in the on position is a clue. Could it be the battery even though it cranks just fine and measures 12.8 volts with my meter.

 

Chevys suck so dont worry about that.

 

My 07 v6 did something similar. Engine light wouldn't stay on in ACC position of key. It was the EFI (Electronic Fuel Ingector) relay that wasnt seating correctly because I had previously double tapped it for all time DTRL mod. It was stupid to do but I had to bend the fuse receivers back and it was good to go. It acts like you try and start it without the proximity key.

 

Like stated above, invest or borrow a code reader.

 

It is probably telling that the "Check Engine" light never comes on. It sounds like the ECU is missing power somewhere.

https://www.customtacos.com/tech.old/files/05FSM/wiring.html

Meter the voltage coming from the following fuses and make sure you have 12 VDC at the output of each fuse:
All of these provide power for the ECU.

OBD Fuse
ECU-B Fuse
ETCU Fuse
AM2 Fuse
EFI Fuse
EFI NO.2 Fuse

 

Jimmyh there is no voltage across the efi no.2 fuse. All the rest check out at 12v. What next?

 

Bad transponder key?

 

Ok I fixed it. The ignition fuse under the dash wasn't making good contact, one of the blades was bent. When I ohm'ed out the fuses I just used the contacts on the tops that let you test without pulling the fuses. I decided to go ahead and pull them all and found the problem. I would like to thank all who helped in this thread.

And for all who ever have a no start with no spark and no fuel and no brief check engine light(it should come on and go out) but the starter cranks, that is what will happen if the under the dash fuse isn't making contact or is blown.

 

Glad you got it fixed.

 

I know this is an old thread but I'm hoping someone might be able to offer some help with my problem which is almost exactly the same.

I drove the truck home one night, no codes, no problems and the next morning it wouldn't start. Knowing the battery was 6yrs old and it was an 18° morning I replaced the battery thinking that was the issue. Still the truck cranks but makes no effort to start. The throttle body works but is unresponsive, the fuel pump works but it unresponsive. Every single fuse and relay was checked with only one notable finding. The "EFI 2" 10amp fuse has no power in any situation. There is no CEL on the dash and the immobilizer light goes off when the key is inserted. I took my power probe and artificially supplied 12v to that "EFI 2" fuse and that caused the CEL to appear on the dash but no other changes. Every other fuse besides the 7.5amp starter fuse (has 12v while cranking) has 12v on both sides when the key is in the on position.

I tried resetting everything buy leaving the battery unplugged for hours. I tried 3 different scanners that all say they cannot connect (one of which I've used many times before on this truck) I have not notices any broken or corroded wires or grounds. V6 1gr-fe

In my mind it sounds like the ECM is not communicating. But idk and any help would be greatly appreciated

 

I have to look at wiring diagrams tonight but have you tried swapping the EFI relay with a known good one like the horn relay? We have seen those fail in the past and cause a no start no com.

It would be best if you started your own thread instead of resurrecting a 5 year old one about a different year and different engine.

 

Yes I've swapped those relays and they work fine. The most recent work I've done to the truck is brakes and wheel hubs but I can't imagine disturbing anything when doing that

 

Well then we have to start at the basics, if the fuses are good then we need to check powers and grounds at the PCM.

I can provide the wiring diagrams and PCM pinout but I don't have time to walk you through it at the moment.
If @TnShooter is around he might be able to assist.

 

With the relay removed and key ON.
You should have power to pin 1 and 5.
And a ground on pin 2.

 

I'll start a list.
I'm hoping it will be easy, like a bad ground at the relay.
But it won't be.......never is that easy.

Let me take a look.