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Need help please, won't start, no spark, no fuel

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by motacos2010, Oct 8, 2019.

  1. Oct 8, 2019 at 5:43 PM
    #1
    motacos2010

    motacos2010 [OP] New Member

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    2010 Tacoma SR5 2.7 4x4
    2010 Tacoma SR5, 2.7 engine, 5 speed manual transmission with 95,000 miles. Just bought truck, always owned GM or Ford and this is my first toyota.

    Truck runs fine, drive to work and at end of the day it will not start. Towed home. Truck has fuel, battery is good(12.8v), all fuses have continuity, swapped the c/opn relay with the horn relay and tried its relay in horn location, both are ok. Tried starter fluid in the throttle body still no start. Pulled plug, no spark, pulled another, still no spark. 12v at the plug at the coil. Pulled fuel lines at the engine, no fuel while it's being cranked. So I have no fuel no spark and my truck does not have the immobilizer system. What could it be? The crank sensor?
    I have a digital voltmeter and am decent at trouble shooting if someone can point me in the right direction.
     
  2. Oct 8, 2019 at 7:17 PM
    #2
    TnShooter

    TnShooter Well-Known Member

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    It could be the Crankshaft or Camshaft Sensor.
    They both send signal to the ECM. The ECM sends signal to the coils.
    It’s possible the ECM is the issue, but they aren’t really know to “go bad” very often.

    Does the Engine Light come on at all when you turn the key to ON? (Not Acc)
    It may come on and go back out in a couple of seconds. Watch for it to come on when you first turn it to ON.

    Maybe someone with more experience on the 2.7 will help you out.
    Hopefully you can get it figured out.
     
  3. Oct 8, 2019 at 7:50 PM
    #3
    Jimmyh

    Jimmyh Well-Known Member

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    http://www.customtacos.com/tech.old...6toyewd/06toypdf/ewd/2006/tacoma/h/em01d4.pdf

    @motacos2010 Did you check the fuses with a meter or did you just look at them? Use a meter.

    I would think that the 20 amp EFI Fuse is blown as that would kill power to the EFI Relay which would not power the C/OPN Relay.
    Or the EFI Relay could be defective.

    I would also investigate the crank position sensor as I don't think the ECU provides fuel or spark until it see's that the engine is turning.

    Get a OBD2 code reader to see any codes in the ECU.

    The common denominator is the ECU.
     
    BassAckwards and TnShooter like this.
  4. Oct 8, 2019 at 8:06 PM
    #4
    Lester Lugnut

    Lester Lugnut Well-Known Member

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    Jimmyh likes this.
  5. Oct 9, 2019 at 12:30 PM
    #5
    motacos2010

    motacos2010 [OP] New Member

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    Tnshooter, the check engine light never comes on at all. What does that mean? The owners manual says it should come on and then go off.

    I removed the camshaft position sensor and it ohms out in the proper range.

    Jimmy I used my meter and ohm'd out every fuse under the hood and under the dash. All are good. I also swapped the horn relay with the efi and it works in the horn location. And the horn relay in the efi location doesn't solve the problem. I just ordered the obd2 reader recommended by scotty Kilmer of YouTube, it will be here tommorow.

    Lesterlugnut it has a clean carfax but this is my first toyota and I bought it used from a dodge Chrysler dealership it was a local trade on a ram. I've already had to fix the secondary air injection system(vacuum line was being pinched), replaced rear shocks, ran seafoam thru gas, crankcase, and in the brake booster, changed all fluids with synthetics including the entire drivetrain(used redline fluids), have some denso long life spark plugs arriving tommorow. But this problem has got me questioning my choice of a toyota, for the same price I could of got a newer ranger or Colorado.

    I think the lack of the check engine light with the key in the on position is a clue. Could it be the battery even though it cranks just fine and measures 12.8 volts with my meter.
     
  6. Oct 9, 2019 at 12:39 PM
    #6
    TacomaSport86

    TacomaSport86 2010 Tacoma/2016 4Runner Pro

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    Chevys suck so dont worry about that.
     
  7. Oct 9, 2019 at 12:43 PM
    #7
    j_sav115

    j_sav115 Well-Known Member

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    #1-OME 885 coils w/ 90021 struts, LR UCA's. 60091 rear shocks with Toytec 2.5" AAL and 1" shim lift blocks. Level 8 mk6 17x8 -10 offset, Cooper Discoverer STT Pros 285/70/17. ECGS clamshell bearing. BHLM. Bunch of little things. Moment of silence pls.....

    My 07 v6 did something similar. Engine light wouldn't stay on in ACC position of key. It was the EFI (Electronic Fuel Ingector) relay that wasnt seating correctly because I had previously double tapped it for all time DTRL mod. It was stupid to do but I had to bend the fuse receivers back and it was good to go. It acts like you try and start it without the proximity key.
     
  8. Oct 9, 2019 at 12:50 PM
    #8
    Wattapunk

    Wattapunk Stay lifted my friends !

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    Like stated above, invest or borrow a code reader.
     
  9. Oct 9, 2019 at 2:29 PM
    #9
    Jimmyh

    Jimmyh Well-Known Member

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    It is probably telling that the "Check Engine" light never comes on. It sounds like the ECU is missing power somewhere.

    https://www.customtacos.com/tech.old/files/05FSM/wiring.html

    Meter the voltage coming from the following fuses and make sure you have 12 VDC at the output of each fuse:
    All of these provide power for the ECU.

    OBD Fuse
    ECU-B Fuse
    ETCU Fuse
    AM2 Fuse
    EFI Fuse
    EFI NO.2 Fuse
     
    Last edited: Oct 9, 2019
    Muddinfun, TnShooter and CurtB like this.
  10. Oct 10, 2019 at 12:13 PM
    #10
    motacos2010

    motacos2010 [OP] New Member

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    Jimmyh there is no voltage across the efi no.2 fuse. All the rest check out at 12v. What next?
     
  11. Oct 10, 2019 at 12:48 PM
    #11
    Tcomaboy

    Tcomaboy Well-Known Member

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    Bad transponder key?
     
  12. Oct 10, 2019 at 1:42 PM
    #12
    motacos2010

    motacos2010 [OP] New Member

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    Ok I fixed it. The ignition fuse under the dash wasn't making good contact, one of the blades was bent. When I ohm'ed out the fuses I just used the contacts on the tops that let you test without pulling the fuses. I decided to go ahead and pull them all and found the problem. I would like to thank all who helped in this thread.

    And for all who ever have a no start with no spark and no fuel and no brief check engine light(it should come on and go out) but the starter cranks, that is what will happen if the under the dash fuse isn't making contact or is blown.
     
  13. Oct 10, 2019 at 1:48 PM
    #13
    Blain

    Blain I ain't got time to bleed

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    Glad you got it fixed.
     
  14. Oct 10, 2019 at 4:21 PM
    #14
    Jimmyh

    Jimmyh Well-Known Member

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